P1000 Electrical Help

[HivoltageHonda]

Nbomar where did you get that switch panel at?

 

[Admin]

 

[nbomar]

OTTRAW

 

[Johnny_C]

Both of these items pictured have the same title,
so please clarify which of these we need, or both,
and the correct name or title, and or item numbers.

Great thread & great info.

John

View attachment 7200 View attachment 7201
Absolutely no problem I'm glad you found it useful it does work out really nice this way I've been in the automotive industry for years and 90% of the time this when I see electrical problems on a rig it's because someone install something that went haywire i'm pretty good at wiring but at the same time I don't like tapping into factory stock it never worked out quite as well as you would hope. What's on this rig it's a great little spot for the battery that doesn't take up any room gives you full access to everything and you'll never have a dead battery if you have lots of accessories this setup is the one I chose. It keeps thins very clean fully water proof has 5 relays 10 fuses is totally wired so super easy very nice setup looked long time. Honda set is only 4 dedicated switches this is better and 10. Little more work but again never a dead battery and pretty easy at 1/4 the cash

 

[BigRiver]

I think I am going with this on my 1000 when it finally shows up.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M9MRA14/?tag=sxsweb24-20

PDM60 | Rowe Electronics

I followed your lead on this and ordered this part. Besides switches, are there any other items I need? Going with forward light bar, rear back up lights, winch and maybe a dome light.
Thanks

 

[ohanacreek]

I followed your lead on this and ordered this part. Besides switches, are there any other items I need? Going with forward light bar, rear back up lights, winch and maybe a dome light.
Thanks

No it's a power distribution module, has circuit breakers built in. It will automate a few of the things I want to do.

Automatic backup lights, Retained power after ignition power is dropped... You can get creative with it. You also don't need to carry spare fuses in your polaris repair kit.

 

[ohanacreek]

You CANNOT RUN main winch power through it. You can however power the in/out switch from it.

 

[educ8tedguess]

You CANNOT RUN main winch power through it. You can however power the in/out switch from it.

I have been wondering about this. Let me know if I'm on the right track here. The main power for the winch needs to run from the battery to the contact box that comes with the winch. Then the box hooks to the winch. The switch also needs to hook to the box but the power for that switch can be tied in with the other switches on the switch plate.

 

[ohanacreek]

I have been wondering about this. Let me know if I'm on the right track here. The main power for the winch needs to run from the battery to the contact box that comes with the winch. Then the box hooks to the winch. The switch also needs to hook to the box but the power for that switch can be tied in with the other switches on the switch plate.

Correct

 

[BigRiver]

OK, I follow what you're saying.Though the winch connects directly to the battery, the fore and aft lights can connect directly to this? Is this power distribution module internal when using a second battery? I don't plan on going that far with this mod , but will it's it's necessary. And if a second battery is added, this is where the isolator would be utilized? Thanks

 

[Ned]

I was going to buy the PDM but I think I have decided against it. Although it is a 60 amp rig, it is divided across all 6 circuits and unless you combine two to get 40 amps together, I believe 20 is max and the other circuits only get what's left. If I go with the fuse block relay setup some of the others have installed, more circuits and although fused, they can carry significantly more power per circuit. The programming and overload reset are great, but again, I don't see myself blowing out fuses often and I have no need for automation.

 

[ohanacreek]

Most of my loads were under 5amps, winch and 40" light bar being the exception. The 40" was 20amps I will put it on a standard relay anyway and have the control side of the relay powered by the PDM.

Not for everyone, neither is a fuse block, many ways to skin a cat.

I bet had 50lbs of copper on my 700 I'm trying to lighten my accessories as much as I can, and reduce their installed footprint and power draw.

My 700 was a heavy beast, driving one without all the adds has only reinforced that.

 

[Johnny_C]

Ok. I need some clarification here.

Background.

I have a Terra 4500 on order, KFI mount is here.

I am going to add second battery.

I will add forward & rear facing LED lights.

I have added an LED dome light set.

I have the Honda sub harness on order.

I will obviously run the winch off of the secondary battery,
and use it's included wire harness to get it running.

I need clarification on what kits/items I need to add the
second battery, and be able to run my lights from manual
switches inside the cab. I do not want to disturb my
factory harnesses anymore than I have to.

Sorry for being so dense. I am a mechanical designer,
but not so much electrical.

Thanks!

John

 

[Ned]

Most of my loads were under 5amps, winch and 40" light bar being the exception. The 40" was 20amps I will put it on a standard relay anyway and have the control side of the relay powered by the PDM.

Not for everyone, neither is a fuse block, many ways to skin a cat.

I bet had 50lbs of copper on my 700 I'm trying to lighten my accessories as much as I can, and reduce their installed footprint and power draw.

My 700 was a heavy beast, driving one without all the adds has only reinforced that.

I often post my thoughts so I do get disagreement, alternatives and suggestions. This electrical thread has really been great and I will continue to return to it. Ohanacreek, you are the one who had me convinced that although a bit more costly, the PDM was likely MY best alternative. I'm still not completely sure which direction I am going to take so its so very good you take time to make your case and state your logic. I have taken time to look over your 700. Pretty fancy and your electrical experience doing that project has been very valuable to me\us. I'm such noob, I need all the help and opinions I can get.

 

[educ8tedguess]

I agree, this thread has been extremely helpful. I wish I knew more about the electrical side of things. But after this, I'm sure I will.
Another newb question... I got my switches today and am curious if I am supposed to put something over the back of the switches once they are wired.

The tabs on the back seem awfully exposed.

 

[ohanacreek]

I used sockets OTRATTW :: Accessories :: Terminals & Terminal Housings

Need a special tool to crimp though but it makes it FAR less aggravating if you ever have a reason to disconnect all your switches... Or even just one.

Or you can put heat shrink over the end of the female spade connector.

 

[LEOshorty]

I didn't even know Over the River made the switch sockets, I didn't have enough room to use them in the truck but will sure keep those in mind for future use! I had to use the insulated female terminals.

 

[Johnny_C]

shorty!

That looks nice!

John

 

[educ8tedguess]

I didn't even know Over the River made the switch sockets, I didn't have enough room to use them in the truck but will sure keep those in mind for future use! I had to use the insulated female terminals.

Very nice and clean. I hope mine look like that when done.

 

[LEOshorty]

Thanks guys, those are installed in the overhead console of my truck. It was a tight fit but I was pleased with the end result. Hopefully when I finally get a Pioneer I can do a similar setup. I think I used thermostat control wire because it had seven separate insulated wires in a single sheath and was small diameter. Everything is run on relays under the hood so the switches are only running low loads. I tied into a factory harness in the console to supply backlight voltage to the switches that matches the dash lights.

 

[nbomar]

Very nice @LEOshorty