P1000 Clutches burnt up

[itsleo]

They already have aftermarket clutches? 3hours doesn't seem too bad that means they should be able to do it in 1.5-2. Don't know about adjustments? But if you look at the post @JACKAL put up looks good. Sounds like a few beers on a Saturday to me. But for 240 on 700 parts probably let them do it.

Do you know who has the clutches and price.

 

[Admin]

 

[CumminsPusher]

Do you know who has the clutches and price.

No @itsleowhen you said "online" I didn't know if that was aftermarket or you found a better deal on factory confusion I guess

 

[JACKAL]

Do you know who has the clutches and price.

RMATV has the clutch packs listed for $307 each or $614 for the pair, that is the cheapest I have seen. The $240 mention is labor for 2.5 hours.

@CumminsPusher answer to your previous post above.

 

[JACKAL]

Low range in all the areas that were even moderately technical. It only has 60 miles now so the first oil change has not been done. I understand what you are saying, that it needs more gas but some situations do not allow for that. It doesnt really help to be easy on the clutch if your busting other parts on the machine because you have to go to fast for the situation.


I am riding in low when the shuddering occurs. I haven't even let it get into the shudder zone in High. I make it a point to not let it do that. It only has 60 miles now so the first service has not been done yet. I do need more seat time to get better with the pedal and I hope the machine will wear in a bit and I can almost totally stop the shuddering. I do wish I didn't have to worry about it at all tho. But I still love this thing.

If you are having issues with the shuddering in the first 50 miles as you described, it will not get better. If your are getting RPM spikes when it shifts INTO 3rd & 5th gears the clutch is getting worse, by RPM spikes I mean 1000+ RPM jumps vs. 2nd, 4th, 6th, gear changes.

 

[CumminsPusher]

RMATV has the clutch packs listed for $307 each or $614 for the pair, that is the cheapest I have seen. The $240 mention is labor for 2.5 hours.

@CumminsPusher answer to your previous post above.

So 850. Honestly that scares me a little less then I was thinking. Thank you so much @JACKAL for putting up pics and tracking this like you have! I'm sorry you had problems but glad to see your up and going and still happy with your purchase. Sounds like it was a couple problems in early miles I'm still trusting mine. There are others like that as well and some of that confidence is because of your information. Again thanks!!!!

 

[JOHNDEEREMAN]

if you guys are having all this trouble with clutches why isnt honda fix them for free. if mine goes out they dont cover it i am done with honda i have 3500+ miles 245 hrs i have not seen the problems you guys talk about. yes it would be nice to climb over rocks a little slower but i can live with it. the frist time they dont cover a problem this honda will turn into a can am

 

[CumminsPusher]

They actually are!

 

[JACKAL]

if you guys are having all this trouble with clutches why isnt honda fix them for free. if mine goes out they dont cover it i am done with honda i have 3500+ miles 245 hrs i have not seen the problems you guys talk about. yes it would be nice to climb over rocks a little slower but i can live with it. the frist time they dont cover a problem this honda will turn into a can am

You need to go back and read a thousand posts in this thread if you think Honda hasn't covered all issues verified through the dealerships. No one has been required to pay for anything repaired.

 

[JMRubicon]

If you are having issues with the shuddering in the first 50 miles as you described, it will not get better. If your are getting RPM spikes when it shifts INTO 3rd & 5th gears the clutch is getting worse, by RPM spikes I mean 1000+ RPM jumps vs. 2nd, 4th, 6th, gear changes.

I am not getting rpm spikes. Only the very low speed shuddering and that is only on steep inclines. I had to stop at one point on an incline and when I pulled back out it started to shudder. I had to give it a lot more throttle than I wanted to make it stop shuddering.

 

[sharp]

If you are having issues with the shuddering in the first 50 miles as you described, it will not get better. If your are getting RPM spikes when it shifts INTO 3rd & 5th gears the clutch is getting worse, by RPM spikes I mean 1000+ RPM jumps vs. 2nd, 4th, 6th, gear changes.

You know if honda had to choose who is going to have a bad clutch the last person they would choose is JACKAL. I wonder if they know that he has access to thousands of people on this forum that he keeps informed. Thank for all the great information you provide an keeping a level head through it all. If mine ever had a problem and they denied a warranty for the clutch I would pull out my phone open this forum and show them the 55 pages of people that are talking about this. I think they would get the point when you have hundreds of people that have your back!

 

[walexa07]

if you guys are having all this trouble with clutches why isnt honda fix them for free. if mine goes out they dont cover it i am done with honda i have 3500+ miles 245 hrs i have not seen the problems you guys talk about. yes it would be nice to climb over rocks a little slower but i can live with it. the frist time they dont cover a problem this honda will turn into a can am

Honda has covered ALL issues under warranty, even though in the grand scheme it has been a very low percentage of units with problems. The only reason people are discussing price for clutch replacement is in case you were on your own and had to fix it on your own dime - say when the unit is several years old with high mileage and it's considered a wear/tear item like brake pads.

Waylan

 

[CumminsPusher]

Yes what @walexa07 said is fact. I can assure you I'm not worried for years to come. The vast majority of us aren't as we are still buying them. Honda is taking care of this fairly isolated problem. It's good to be informed.

 

[JACKAL]

I am not getting rpm spikes. Only the very low speed shuddering and that is only on steep inclines. I had to stop at one point on an incline and when I pulled back out it started to shudder. I had to give it a lot more throttle than I wanted to make it stop shuddering.

That is good to hear, you may want to double check your oil level, follow the procedure in your owners manual exactly. If not checked according to the procedure the reading can be a false read that it is full when it isn't. You wouldn't think the oil level would be low brand new but I would verify it.

 

[JACKAL]

You know if honda had to choose who is going to have a bad clutch the last person they would choose is JACKAL. I wonder if they know that he has access to thousands of people on this forum that he keeps informed. Thank for all the great information you provide an keeping a level head through it all. If mine ever had a problem and they denied a warranty for the clutch I would pull out my phone open this forum and show them the 55 pages of people that are talking about this. I think they would get the point when you have hundreds of people that have your back!

Trust me the right people are aware of this forum (and this thread) and proper attention is being given to issues. However it is up to the owners of the machines to communicate their concerns with their dealerships in order for Honda to help them. Comments made on here are virtually anonymous unless you post your VIN# etc., then it is a simple matter of cross referencing the VIN with a poster nickname and the person who bought the unit.

 

[JMRubicon]

That is good to hear, you may want to double check your oil level, follow the procedure in your owners manual exactly. If not checked according to the procedure the reading can be a false read that it is full when it isn't. You wouldn't think the oil level would be low brand new but I would verify it.

I checked it before the first ride and it was spot on. I will definitely check it again before this weekends ride. I am also going to pay attention to the color. I don't believe I am actually having problems with the clutch, and U am getting better at throttle control and not letting it shudder. But as much as I love this thing, I can't say that I am thrilled that I can't crawl a little slower in the technical stuff. I ride with a lot of Teryxs and I see them busting tires or other parts all the time trying to go too fast in rocky sections, and I don't want that to be me.

 

[JACKAL]

I checked it before the first ride and it was spot on. I will definitely check it again before this weekends ride. I am also going to pay attention to the color. I don't believe I am actually having problems with the clutch, and U am getting better at throttle control and not letting it shudder. But as much as I love this thing, I can't say that I am thrilled that I can't crawl a little slower in the technical stuff. I ride with a lot of Teryxs and I see them busting tires or other parts all the time trying to go too fast in rocky sections, and I don't want that to be me.

I understand, the number 1 reason tires don't stay on is because it is being run with too low of pressure, run the recommended PSI and the chances of it getting pushed off the bead are dramatically reduced. The shuddering is likely from a bit low oil "pressure" just at the moment you are wanting to move, the severity of it can vary with operating temps of the oil, as the RPM increases so does the oil pressure and the shuddering stops and the increase in pressure fully closes the clutch. The clutch and springs are plenty strong it's just second or two upon takeoff from idle or when the computer is trying to read your intentions with the throttle position on whether to engage or disengage the clutch. There is seemingly a "no mans land" where it (the electronic control module) can't decide exactly what to do, it juggles 14 reading from sensors on when and how to shift that also regulates the oil pressure via a piston directing both of the clutches on when to open or close. I may not be 100% spot on but this is the only logical explanation I can come up with on the shuddering. For what ever reason mine no longer does it at all since being repaired even on very slow take off.

 

[JMRubicon]

I understand, the number 1 reason tires don't stay on is because it is being run with too low of pressure, run the recommended PSI and the chances of it getting pushed off the bead are dramatically reduced. The shuddering is likely from a bit low oil "pressure" just at the moment you are wanting to move, the severity of it can vary with operating temps of the oil, as the RPM increases so does the oil pressure and the shuddering stops and the increase in pressure fully closes the clutch. The clutch and springs are plenty strong it's just second or two upon takeoff from idle or when the computer is trying to read your intentions with the throttle position on whether to engage or disengage the clutch. There is seemingly a "no mans land" where it (the electronic control module) can't decide exactly what to do, it juggles 14 reading from sensors on when and how to shift that also regulates the oil pressure via a piston directing both of the clutches on when to open or close. I may not be 100% spot on but this is the only logical explanation I can come up with on the shuddering. For what ever reason mine no longer does it at all since being repaired even on very slow take off.

They aren't running too low of pressure, the tires aren't coming off the bead they are blowing out the side walls. Most of them are running 15-18psi. In my opinion that's way too much. Lots of time they just have the idea that if I hit it hard enough it will go. Sure it might but at what cost? I don't like to punish my machine like that. I believe that I will be able to minimize the shuddering with more seat time but I don't want to save the clutch and beat on everything else.

 

[JACKAL]

They aren't running too low of pressure, the tires aren't coming off the bead they are blowing out the side walls. Most of them are running 15-18psi. In my opinion that's way too much. Lots of time they just have the idea that if I hit it hard enough it will go. Sure it might but at what cost? I don't like to punish my machine like that. I believe that I will be able to minimize the shuddering with more seat time but I don't want to save the clutch and beat on everything else.

Okay then, too often I'm with a group and there is always that guy running 6 psi that thinks he will gain spider man climbing ability in rocks when they constitute only 2% of the total trail and never fails he rolls the bead off the rim. Your buddies, I would bet none of them are running Rocatne XD tires then, probably some of the toughest sidewall tires out there they love rocks, and last longer than woodpecker lips.

 

[JMRubicon]

Okay then, too often I'm with a group and there is always that guy running 6 psi that thinks he will gain spider man climbing ability in rocks when they constitute only 2% of the total trail and never fails he rolls the bead off the rim. Your buddies, I would bet none of them are running Rocatne XD tires then, probably some of the toughest sidewall tires out there they love rocks, and last longer than woodpecker lips.

I believe they have all started to switch to the Roctanes actually, and I think their number of flats have drastically decreased.

 

[JOHNDEEREMAN]

the reason i taked about honda not covering problems that arise ive been down the road with outer companies oh your tie rods went out in 1500 miles you are not driving it rite bull s*** your not build it rite oh didnt we tell you the rings are only suppost to last for 2500 miles wear item i could go on and on but that my complant after spending after spending 15000--25000 for a sxs they are dezigned to wear 1500 miles i bought honda hoping for better quailty than what we been getting ill get off of my stoul i am hoping for a long and good ride