P1000 Clutches burnt up

[Bayouownbeer]

This is how it happen I was in 4 wheel lock low gear. Tring to climb out a sandy hard bottom hole. Front tires where on top of natural ground. With gas petel all the way it would barly I mean barly turn the tires. Only let it try to pull like that that for prob 10-15 seconds seen it wouldn't pull backed off. I would not suggest putting a strap on anyone to pull them out this would duplicate my senerio. Just to clearify I wouldn't say clutch it burnt in 1,3,5 it just slips on initial engagement for about 2 seconds once it engages it's solid. Basically if you have the gas petal pressed tires better be turning or you going be in same boat !

 

[Admin]

 

[Bayouownbeer]

Let me know how new clutch is. I sure hope it better than factory.

Mine just got fixed a couple hours ago... Honda is taking care of ya.. At red creek now

me

 

[Hometeam]

Here is a thought...it seems like most people with the clutch problem are having it with lower miles. Wonder if these clutches are more like a performance clutch that needs a break in period before it gets beat on or it will burn up quick. When I was heavy in the turbo import car world, when you put a high end aftermarket clutch in you really had to go through a break in or you could pretty much garentee you were gonna have a problem. I have over 400 miles and all seems to be good. When new my break in consisted of easier driving around allowing the machine to shift a lot but not under a heavy load for the first 100 miles (I wasn't to worried about hours at that point probably only 5-6hrs) changed the oil and then started pushing the machine harder. Then I went to just over 20 hours and changed the oil again but this time to Amsoil full synthetic and the bike feels smoother and quieter yet! Not saying this is the reason but just trying to help figure out a patern of bikes having problems! Good luck to those having an is

 

[ohanacreek]

Here is a thought...it seems like most people with the clutch problem are having it with lower miles. Wonder if these clutches are more like a performance clutch that needs a break in period before it gets beat on or it will burn up quick. When I was heavy in the turbo import car world, when you put a high end aftermarket clutch in you really had to go through a break in or you could pretty much garentee you were gonna have a problem. I have over 400 miles and all seems to be good. When new my break in consisted of easier driving around allowing the machine to shift a lot but not under a heavy load for the first 100 miles (I wasn't to worried about hours at that point probably only 5-6hrs) changed the oil and then started pushing the machine harder. Then I went to just over 20 hours and changed the oil again but this time to Amsoil full synthetic and the bike feels smoother and quieter yet! Not saying this is the reason but just trying to help figure out a patern of bikes having problems! Good luck to those having an is

My thought as well it seems as though some are shirking the break in recommendations.

 

[JACKAL]

My thought as well it seems as though some are shirking the break in recommendations.

The only downside to that if someone reads the owners manual it specifically say to be easy on it for the first 15 miles. Thats it. I would be more careful for at least the first 100 miles.

 

[ohanacreek]

The only downside to that if someone reads the owners manual it specifically say to be easy on it for the first 15 miles. Thats it. I would be more careful for at least the first 100 miles.

Misprint maybe 15 hours?

 

[ohanacreek]

I was easy (cruised around our old subdivision at no more than about 20-25mph) on my 700 for the first 20hrs and 100ish miles then changed the oil and fluids ran it for half the service intervals and changed them again.

I was pulling a couple hundred whole pine trees top and all, so I only ran it for half the service interval and really fell that was a little long looking back.

It NEVER hicupped or slipped, ran like a Honda the entire time.

You HAVE to break a machine in, and do it gently. When I get a new road vehicle I always take it easy for the first 500-1000 miles then maintain them short of suggested intervals. Other than my present POS of a GM product I've had excellent service out of all of them by doing that.

 

[Brian321]

Lol! Thanks PioneerPete. I appreciate the test. This is very important to me. Because I am going to be the only honda sxs on the farm so if I smoke those damn clutches twisting in and out of trees in front of all my family all riding Polaris's I'm going to be really ticked off.

Have I mentioned I just love this Club!

You'll have the nicest smoothest and quietest one on the farm. Their transmission shine in slow farm environment. Instant power to ground without that annoying cvt rpm build up then engage feeling. Rode with a buddy on mine and he had his maverick all tricked out. All or nothing for that guy. No creeping in or out of tight spots or holes. The 1000 is absolutely amazing.

 

[Stauvo]

You'll have the nicest smoothest and quietest one on the farm. Their transmission shine in slow farm environment. Instant power to ground without that annoying cvt rpm build up then engage feeling. Rode with a buddy on mine and he had his maverick all tricked out. All or nothing for that guy. No creeping in or out of tight spots or holes. The 1000 is absolutely amazing.

I'm commited! Lol! Up and down the bi-poler rollercoaster I have been for a few weeks about this new tranny. Think I will move my purchase date to April instead of May.

 

[Serial_Fordicator]

My thought as well it seems as though some are shirking the break in recommendations.

Yes, and they recommend to use only honda labeled fluids also.

 

[Serial_Fordicator]

Well, I did a little riding today, not much because of no sleep, but it feels great. I never felt a shudder either, but I also was nailing it and treating it like they told me when I put my cv tech clutch on my old can am. They said to keep revving it to keep the belt tight, so on the honda I didn't rev but kept higher rpms at all times.

Now, from what the mechanic that worked on it told me, was that the new clutch had a different part number than the one he removed and the new assemblies are on back order. He has personally talked to 2 other owners with clutch problems but one tried pulling a guy out in high and the other didn't have any oil in theirs.

If anyone is reading this afraid, they all have faults, so if you were to go with the ranger, they do too. Reverse chain, bearings etc come to mind. That's the realization I've came up with. I'll probably be running portals when they are released for the gear reduction. I'll probably run 31's (with 30% gear reduction it would handle them better than the 27's without the gear reduction.)

 

[PioneerPete]

Well, I did a little riding today, not much because of no sleep, but it feels great. I never felt a shudder either, but I also was nailing it and treating it like they told me when I put my cv tech clutch on my old can am. They said to keep revving it to keep the belt tight, so on the honda I didn't rev but kept higher rpms at all times.

Now, from what the mechanic that worked on it told me, was that the new clutch had a different part number than the one he removed and the new assemblies are on back order. He has personally talked to 2 other owners with clutch problems but one tried pulling a guy out in high and the other didn't have any oil in theirs.

If anyone is reading this afraid, they all have faults, so if you were to go with the ranger, they do too. Reverse chain, bearings etc come to mind. That's the realization I've came up with. I'll probably be running portals when they are released for the gear reduction. I'll probably run 31's (with 30% gear reduction it would handle them better than the 27's without the gear reduction.)

glad your test run felt right. also good to hear that they replaced it with a different part number.... hopefully the new ones are more robust.

 

[hondabob]

My 3 seat 1000 is frame #24. Got nearly 2,000 miles on it now. Did one rock ride in low range for 40 miles and about 45 miles in high range. The important thing is to get the wheels turning right away so you won't overheat the clutch. Honda warns us about stopping on a hill and using the clutch to hold it from rolling back. That will smoke a wet clutch on the belt drive models and smoke a belt in a hurry on the models without a wet clutch. I agree on the 30% gear reduction for rock crawling and mud riding. The 4 inch lift is a bonus and important for mud riding. Reverse gear is a bit high so it will be important to use even more throttle to get the wheels turning. I expect Honda may improve the clutch toughness to avoid failures for the extreme use guys. The Pioneer 700 with the torque converter may be the best Honda for mud riding with the 30% gear reduction and 26 inch tires. I put on over 9,000 miles on mine and just love being able to inch along in the rocks.

 

[Fullthrottle]

Probably a wash when you add larger aggressive tread tires and get portals for gearing. Seemed that way on my buddies rzr.Good too know that that the clutch can be beefed up mabye.

 

[JACKAL]

Well, I did a little riding today, not much because of no sleep, but it feels great. I never felt a shudder either, but I also was nailing it and treating it like they told me when I put my cv tech clutch on my old can am. They said to keep revving it to keep the belt tight, so on the honda I didn't rev but kept higher rpms at all times.

Now, from what the mechanic that worked on it told me, was that the new clutch had a different part number than the one he removed and the new assemblies are on back order. He has personally talked to 2 other owners with clutch problems but one tried pulling a guy out in high and the other didn't have any oil in theirs.

If anyone is reading this afraid, they all have faults, so if you were to go with the ranger, they do too. Reverse chain, bearings etc come to mind. That's the realization I've came up with. I'll probably be running portals when they are released for the gear reduction. I'll probably run 31's (with 30% gear reduction it would handle them better than the 27's without the gear reduction.)

I bet a handful of us would give you a buffalo nickel if you were able to find out and post the replacement part number(s) of all the items they replaced. Would be interesting to know for comparison, and replacement sake if it came to that down the road. thanks for sharing the updated info and glad to hear it seems to be performing up to standards for you after the repair.

 

[Scooterchris]

Burnt my clutches yesterday. Playing in the mud. Stock tires, around 45 hours -400 miles or so on the unit. Slips going into 3rd and 5th.
Had it in low. 4wd and 4wd diff lock. Had a teryx 4 pulling me out. Absolutely couldn't even spin the tires. The sad part is late that day around the same area I watched my buddy in his viking get stuck. Even tho he had to winched out he was able to spin the tires and didn't burn anything up. Watched multiple rzr's and can am's get stuck in this area. Winched out. It was hard on all the units trying to get thru the mess we were in. But at the end when it was all said and down. My honda was the only one goofed up

 

[Scooterchris]

Will be taking it in to my dealer. They have 2 units already for this problem. Sure they won't mind a 3rd

 

[sthomp54]

Will be taking it in to my dealer. They have 2 units already for this problem. Sure they won't mind a 3rd

Sorry to hear that. I am curious about the design of the clutches on the dct. Are they basically the same centrifugal clutches honda has used forever or is there a different design here? I guess the other factor is the engine is much more powerful than any previous honda utv or atv so when it gets in a bind it can slip the clutch under load and burn it up. Bottom line is you do not want to bind this thing up, if you are on the throttle hard and the wheels arent moving best to stop and winch/pull it out...at least until honda figures out what is going on.

 

[Plumber32]

These post have made up my mind to at least wait till next model year. I just pulled my 700 off craigslist. Now I've got the coin burning a hole in my pocket! I know for 99% of my riding I'd never have a problem and my dealers getting a white one in next week. I'm thankful for people being honest here and not hiding an issue out of pride. Probably just saved my marriage lol!

 

[Serial_Fordicator]

I bet a handful of us would give you a buffalo nickel if you were able to find out and post the replacement part number(s) of all the items they replaced. Would be interesting to know for comparison, and replacement sake if it came to that down the road. thanks for sharing the updated info and glad to hear it seems to be performing up to standards for you after the repair.

They sent the old clutch assembly back to honda is what I was told or I definitely would have.