Ugghhh...broken skid plates bolts. Help!!!

[JTW]

I plan to soak with PB blaster tonight. I've got my work cut out for me.

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Good luck!! Holler at me when you get suuuuuper frustrated and done with it! I'll make you a deal!

 

[Admin]

 

[Montecresto]

FWIW: I broke two bolts removing the skid plates to run my wiring for work and overhead lights. One came out easily with vise grips and PB blaster. One is still in there with a hole and broken extractor in it.

Same thing happened to me. I'm concerned when I replace the OEM skids this winter with triple S that I'm going to break off more!

 

[doolin64]

Antiseize with be friend

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[AK_Centurion]

I've had good luck with these on quite a few bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[sharp]

Note to self... Don't put a skid plate screws tight, after all it's just a bolt. Lol thanks for the info. Once again the forum pays off.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Note to self... Don't put a skid plate screws tight, after all it's just a bolt. Lol thanks for the info. Once again the forum pays off.

Then they will probably fall out. I had one missing that I know was there when purchased. I think it is primarily the location. Primetime for dirt, water, and corrosion. In fact, the broken one that is still in there, turned out at first. Then started to lock up.

 

[JCart]

I use a quality anti seize paste when installing these bolts, don't be a heathen when tightening as the're only M6.... I've twisted them off with my Milwalkie 1/4" drive impact, so use hand power only on install. Periodically you will need to retighten, check every oil change. Buy spare washers from Honda and have a few bolts on hand.

Nutcerts should work well, use a sharp Center punch, then drill out and replace with quality steel nutcert if you wreck the stock threads. I've used them on the ROPS to bolt on clear Lexan roof and they work awesome. I think I have pic of ROPS nutcert install in sig link.

j

 

[locoboilerguy]

@JCart can tell you all about using Rivnuts/Nutcerts for the skids.

As I was reading through the posts that was going to be my suggestion. Just drill them out and install one of many types of threaded inserts that or go with the next size up of self tapper. The left hand drill will works sometimes but you have got to be dead center and the bolt is pretty small and hardened as they are self tappers I believe.

Vibration is your friend when you do this as it helps break them loose. The left hand drill will catch when its about to break though and many times just back the screw out. The center punch idea and working carefully around the bolt is another plan that works well sometimes. Sorry you aren't closer I would do it for you tonight. Good luck.

 

[lee]

Does anyone have a left hand drill bit set they recommend?

Don't really need the left hand drill bit.
If you use a normal, sharp drill bit it will have the same effect but the broken off stub will screw in to the frame tube.
You can try to recover them or just ignore it.
They aren't going to hurt anything - they might make a little noise rattling around but with the clatter of the P500 you will never notice.
Take @CumminsPusher advice, tap on the bolt stub with a hammer (use a center punch if needed) to help break the treads lose.
Just tap on the bolts while soaked in penetrating oil, don't hammer on them.

There, you can save $ using a common drill bit you might already have and save time leaving the bolt stubs in the pipe.
Add anti-seize to the new bolts going in so they will come out in the future.
Also consider spraying the inside of the frame pipes with fluid film (at least the tubes you can get to) to stop the rust.

 

[Seg]

I had a few that broke. I'm not picky I just used tap in screw next to it...

 

[Montecresto]

I had a few that broke. I'm not picky I just used tap in screw next to it...

I did the same thing when a couple of mine broke removing them to run wiring. I found some very cool self taping 1/4" very fine thread fasteners. Worked great.

 

[monaco]

I use a quality anti seize paste when installing these bolts, don't be a heathen when tightening as the're only M6.... I've twisted them off with my Milwalkie 1/4" drive impact, so use hand power only on install. Periodically you will need to retighten, check every oil change. Buy spare washers from Honda and have a few bolts on hand.
j

Me too- twisted one off with the same exact Milwaukee driver... I was surprised. Thanks for all of the tips here. I'll not be putting them back on too tightly!

 

[SBuckJ]

After owning many ATV's (all Japanese make) before my first side x side, I always had the same issue from several different areas and, to this day, I blame it on cheap Japanese bolts that don't seem to break but simply twist off...The ONLY thing I will say for the Polaris I owned was the fact that this was never a problem on that..I don't know how many times I had the skid plate off the Polaris (because of working on it so much-LOL) but never a broken bolt...first time on the P5 and two twisted off...luckily it was in a place where I have a large zip tie holding it up now-LOL

 

[monaco]

Maybe I should get harder bolts and not even bother putting these back in.

 

[locoboilerguy]

Lube and anti-seize are our friends.

 

[SBuckJ]

Lube and anti-seize are our friends.

I agree...but better bolts wouldn't hurt also, specially if keeping the machine for a long time

 

[locoboilerguy]

I don't necessarily disagree as stronger is usually better but keep in mind it takes the thickness of a nut for a fastener to be full strength. We don't have that kind of thickness in these thin frames or strength of the threaded point as we would if there was a nut involved. I would much rather have to remove a soft broken bolt than a hard one. A harder fastener rather than shear can cause more damage to the hole. The higher carbon harder bolts will be more prone to corrode due to the difference in carbon content with the parent frame material. Its a form of electrolysis. Anti-seize is just a good idea for virtually everything on any kind of vehicle. Question for you guys (and ladies) out there. How many of you use anti-seize on your spark plugs and lug nuts??? This is especially true if aluminum is involved. Which brings up a interesting other question. Has anybody had problems with their bolts on the aluminum skid plates considering the affinity aluminum has for steel or iron?

 

[JCart]

I think your comments locoboilerguy, are right on point, considered stronger bolts but my thoughts are similar to yours. And yes quality antiseize paste on S plugs, lug nuts, most all threaded stuff at my house.

 

[SBuckJ]

I don't necessarily disagree as stronger is usually better but keep in mind it takes the thickness of a nut for a fastener to be full strength. We don't have that kind of thickness in these thin frames or strength of the threaded point as we would if there was a nut involved. I would much rather have to remove a soft broken bolt than a hard one. A harder fastener rather than shear can cause more damage to the hole. The higher carbon harder bolts will be more prone to corrode due to the difference in carbon content with the parent frame material. Its a form of electrolysis. Anti-seize is just a good idea for virtually everything on any kind of vehicle. Question for you guys (and ladies) out there. How many of you use anti-seize on your spark plugs and lug nuts??? This is especially true if aluminum is involved. Which brings up a interesting other question. Has anybody had problems with their bolts on the aluminum skid plates considering the affinity aluminum has for steel or iron?

Just thinking here but the thickness of the nut must be thick enough in these frames to make the screws break off right? Gunk and debris not withstanding, the quality of the bolt in these cases is the issue. Just working around metal myself, I have found different qualities of metal of the same gauge (perhaps due to density), this could also be the issue with these bolts? Again I am using my past RZRZ as an example where debris would have gathered but never an issue with those bolts..that being said I agree with anti-seize...I think a galvanized bolt from a local hardware store is of better quality than these bolts Again I will change my when I have a chance...and use your suggestion of anti seize.

 

[locoboilerguy]

Just thinking here but the thickness of the nut must be thick enough in these frames to make the screws break off right? Gunk and debris not withstanding, the quality of the bolt in these cases is the issue. Just working around metal myself, I have found different qualities of metal of the same gauge (perhaps due to density), this could also be the issue with these bolts? Again I am using my past RZRZ as an example where debris would have gathered but never an issue with those bolts..that being said I agree with anti-seize...I think a galvanized bolt from a local hardware store is of better quality than these bolts Again I will change my when I have a chance...and use your suggestion of anti seize.

Its my guess the bolts are broken in shear which would be from a side movement where the force is pushing the bolt against the screw hole. A bolt is in tension against a nut. I only mentioned the nut reference to show that strength here is really not a issue in my mind as much as the shearing force when the SxS floor pan is run into a rock or log and the head of the bolt is removed by a shearing action. If the bolt was stronger this same action might damage the frame. Anyway that was the point and I think it would be good to try stronger bolts but accept the fact there might be problems due to their strength. You always have rivnuts or self tappers for repairs.