P500 p5 suspension

JWB

JWB

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You guys that are going with the air shock setup , I have a valve and fittings for sale.

This will allow you to isolate each side from one another or allow them to see each other. It also allows you to fill the shocks from the valve.

$55 + shipping
View attachment 31156 View attachment 31157
Those are the same fittings I'm using in my system. This really is an ideal set up for a system with no compressor. How were you going to fasten the valve to the machine? I can't see a mount point in the pictures.
 
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Chooglin

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Zoom up on the bottom of the handle area (flange) there are 4 bolt holes for mounting.

I was going to make a bracket up to mount the valve on. Then bolt it to cross bar behind the seat ,so I could control the valve while still in the drivers seat.

I was also going to cut the handle down , they are a bit long !
 
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Chooglin

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Another thing this valve will allow you to do is , you can adjust how fast the air would transfer from side to side. Just crack the valve open ever so slightly !
 
JWB

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Zoom up on the bottom of the handle area (flange) there are 4 bolt holes for mounting.

I was going to make a bracket up to mount the valve on. Then bolt it to cross bar behind the seat ,so I could control the valve while still in the drivers seat.

I was also going to cut the handle down , they are a bit long !
Ya, I see it now- very cool. What a great simple set up that would be. I'm STILL waiting for back-ordered fittings to show up from our vendor... I think it's time for a new vendor. I've got an impressive pile of parts sitting on my bench though... :mad: Maybe the snorkel kit I ordered from sideXside stuff will show up, and I can get that installed.:)
 
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Montecresto

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About 70psi should be a good starting point. BUT- that's with no load on the machine and the shocks fully extended. Here's what I mean- I have four fill valves- one for each corner- so I can't be sitting in the machine when I adjust pressure. So I put 70psi in the fronts, and then lift it by the front bumper a little by hand, and tweak it back to 70psi. I did the same on the rears but I put them up to 90psi. This past week, I did a couple of hard stops from about 35 mph, and noticed that the front end was 'dipping' to the drivers side, and causing the rear to slide out a bit- this was on a sandy road. so I bumped up the pressure to 75psi in the front drivers side shocks and repeated the test- it absolutely eliminated any 'squirelyness' in near lock-up braking, and the machine stayed absolutely straight. Something else I should mention- I had my Dad sit in the machine- he's about 230lbs- and I re-checked the pressure- 118psi. So my point is this, the pressure rises rapidly as the shock compresses, and, conversely, drops rapidly as the shock extends, so if you were to load the machine (shocks partially compressed), and put 70psi in the system, it would read way below 70psi when the load was removed, and would probably ride like a spongy mess. So, every time I've made a pressure adjustment, I always try to get the shocks fully extended. Once I get the compressor and the rest of the system installed, I'll simply adjust the system for good ride and control, not by reading a pressure gauge, because the pressure fluctuates too much with even small movements of the suspension or a change in load. I really like Chooglin's valve set-up for the non-compressor set-ups. With that style of valve, you could even use a bicycle pump to pressurize the system, close the valve, and not loose any air when removing the fill chuck.
Are you suggesting that the Shrader is better than the Hoke?
 
JWB

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Are you suggesting that the Shrader is better than the Hoke?
Looks like it would be a much simpler set-up, but more than double the cost. If I was doing a basic system, I would bite the bullet on the cost and use Choog's valve instead- it would give a much sturdier fill point than the gabriel fill valve too. I wanted all my controls on the dash and it might be difficult to mount that monster unobtrusively on the dash. The way Choog was going to mount it, that wouldn't be an issue.
 
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Montecresto

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Looks like it would be a much simpler set-up, but more than double the cost. If I was doing a basic system, I would bite the bullet on the cost and use Choog's valve instead- it would give a much sturdier fill point than the gabriel fill valve too. I wanted all my controls on the dash and it might be difficult to mount that monster unobtrusively on the dash. The way Choog was going to mount it, that wouldn't be an issue.
Well that was my concern. I too want a dash mount but a big boiler valve handle is a bit obtrusive. Perhaps that long handle could be replaced with a shorter 1/4 turn valve handle like you might see on a supply line to a sink???
 
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Chooglin

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There is 1 drawback to this valve though. If you close the valve while on uneven terrain , the air pressure from side to side , will no longer be even. You would need to get on some flat level ground , open the valve and close it up again. Only when you want to isolate each side from one another!
 
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There is 1 drawback to this valve though. If you close the valve while on uneven terrain , the air pressure from side to side , will no longer be even. You would need to get on some flat level ground , open the valve and close it up again. Only when you want to isolate each side from one another!
Can u use pressure valve with a gauge scale and compressor to even out pressures?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Montecresto

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There is 1 drawback to this valve though. If you close the valve while on uneven terrain , the air pressure from side to side , will no longer be even. You would need to get on some flat level ground , open the valve and close it up again. Only when you want to isolate each side from one another!
What would the downside be to installing them so that they see each other continuously. And like that, would they even need a valve. My average speed in 1800 miles is just 5 mph lol. I know your objective is different but I'm looking for greater travel/articulation.
 
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Chooglin

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What would the downside be to installing them so that they see each other continuously. And like that, would they even need a valve. My average speed in 1800 miles is just 5 mph lol. I know your objective is different but I'm looking for greater travel/articulation.

Yes you can , but regardless , you need to put a "T" fitting in because you need to be able to put air in them.........the valve just allows you both options.
 
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Montecresto

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Yes you can , but regardless , you need to put a "T" fitting in because you need to be able to put air in them.........the valve just allows you both options.
Oh yeah for sure I know I need a T to fill them, but without a valve, they would see each other continuously just as they would the way that they are installed on a car, right??
 
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Chooglin

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Oh yeah for sure I know I need a T to fill them, but without a valve, they would see each other continuously just as they would the way that they are installed on a car, right??
Correct !!!

My thinking is , if you are just trail riding , I would probably isolate them. If I was going to get into some rough terrain or rocks , I would allow them to see each other.

My thinking could be way off though , @JWB could tell you wich is best !
 
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Montecresto

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Correct !!!

My thinking is , if you are just trail riding , I would probably isolate them. If I was going to get into some rough terrain or rocks , I would allow them to see each other.

My thinking could be way off though , @JWB could tell you wich is best !
Well I hope he weighs in on this as well. My trail riding is of the "rough terrain or rocks" nature as evidenced by the 5 mph average speed I've logged in 1800 miles. This is why I'm thinking about the continuous "see". But I do have a Hoke already so I'll likely use it but try to find a brass "T" instead of using the supplied plastic one. Thanks a lot for your input on this Chooglin.
 
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JWB

JWB

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Well I hope he weighs in on this as well. My trail riding is of the "rough terrain or rocks" nature as evidenced by the 5 mph average speed I've logged in 1800 miles. This is why I'm thinking about the continuous "see". But I do have a Hoke already so I'll likely use it but try to find a brass "T" instead of using the supplied plastic one. Thanks a lot for your input on this Chooglin.
Hey guys, just caught up. Ya, you can leave them seeing each other- it allows more 'body roll' at hight speeds, but man does it ride nice! If you were on the side of a hill, or loaded heavy, it might get a little scary. It acts like a solid front axle that pivots in the center so it has very little roll resistance, that's why it can articulate so well. With the stock rear shocks, and sway bar still installed, it may be no issue at all to you. Give it a try. I'm still liking that 3 way valve though. Wish I could think of a good way to mount that in the dash. Still looks like the hoke valve is going to be the least obtrusive dash mount. Monte, I can't remember if you're doing singles or doubles. Choog was correct about switching between articulation mode (see) and isolated, you will have to get the machine level, or at least have both shocks as close to equal as possible before isolating the shocks. I'm not sure if putting a pressure gauge in the system will be much help due to the extreme, and rapid pressure changes that occur as the shocks compress and extend. I have a feeling that unless the gauge has good internal/external damping, it will just get beat to death in short order. The only gauge I'll have in my system will only read tank pressure, and that will be isolated from the rest of the system when not adjusting pressure to the shocks.
 
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JWB

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Correct !!!

My thinking is , if you are just trail riding , I would probably isolate them. If I was going to get into some rough terrain or rocks , I would allow them to see each other.

My thinking could be way off though , @JWB could tell you wich is best !
That is exactly how I intend to use mine.
 
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Montecresto

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Hey guys, just caught up. Ya, you can leave them seeing each other- it allows more 'body roll' at hight speeds, but man does it ride nice! If you were on the side of a hill, or loaded heavy, it might get a little scary. It acts like a solid front axle that pivots in the center so it has very little roll resistance, that's why it can articulate so well. With the stock rear shocks, and sway bar still installed, it may be no issue at all to you. Give it a try. I'm still liking that 3 way valve though. Wish I could think of a good way to mount that in the dash. Still looks like the hoke valve is going to be the least obtrusive dash mount. Monte, I can't remember if you're doing singles or doubles. Choog was correct about switching between articulation mode (see) and isolated, you will have to get the machine level, or at least have both shocks as close to equal as possible before isolating the shocks. I'm not sure if putting a pressure gauge in the system will be much help due to the extreme, and rapid pressure changes that occur as the shocks compress and extend. I have a feeling that unless the gauge has good internal/external damping, it will just get beat to death in short order. The only gauge I'll have in my system will only read tank pressure, and that will be isolated from the rest of the system when not adjusting pressure to the shocks.
That could be a problem, I do get sideways on hills a lot, very rough terrain too. This is why I was thinking more articulation would keep both wheels better planted, but maybe not.
 
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Chooglin

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@JWB I hope when you get yours all finished , you could possibly post a video or two of the shocks in action..........I would really like to see them.
 
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Chooglin

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That could be a problem, I do get sideways on hills a lot, very rough terrain too. This is why I was thinking more articulation would keep both wheels better planted, but maybe not.
This is one reason why I would restrict how fast the air is transfered from one side to the other (as I mentioned above). It would help in these situations.
 
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