P1000 Clutches burnt up

[Jediwrathchild]

It is possible he may have bent the shifting fork(s) and it is not engaging into H, L, or R, thus it is essentially jammed in N. I had bent mine where it would not go into Low Range but would still go in High, it was repaired with the clutches.

Interesting idea. But I imagine same deal as replacing the clutch, very very difficult to get to and do the maintenance. Not sure how it was driven prior to this, if he was using low as appropriate or coming to complete stop when shifting.

Was a bit concerned with potential damage to my clutches. Went and ran it today, and it's shifting smoother than when I first got it. Maybe it's finally all broke in after 160 miles? If a performance clutch and gearing comes out I'll be getting it, and badly needs fox podiums. Ran out of suspension fairly often. A pair of Generals won the UTV class, albeit rolled in with busted shafts and two flat tires. Very impressed with my P1K though!

Ran with several 700-4s. they got stuck a lot! But no damage and we made it through 40+ miles of nightmare.

 

[Admin]

 

[Bayouownbeer]

Well in my particular case I had bent my tie rod a little then when trying to nurse it back to camp finished bending it into a 45 degree angle on a 40% incline, I had just started down the 1000' hill and within the first 30 feet hit a rut & rock in an unavoidable spot. The machine was pointing downhill with pressure on the parking pawl and in the process of two other P1K's trying to get me back up that 30 ft. I had no choice but to shift from L to R and something must have gotten tweaked due to the pressure on the shifting fork. Mind you this was a very peculiar situation and no one would normally stop on that type of incline but there was no way of getting down those switchbacks with one wheel pointing off full lock in one direction or the other while one was straight. This too was in snow and ice at the end of Jan which did not help matters at all. It was just one of those things that happens when riding in the mountains.
View attachment 15662

I gotcha one of them out of the ordinary deals.

 

[Millerhunts]

I had the bad shifting/lag in take off in 1st,3rd,5th and reverse. It quit doing it as bad but still doesn't shift as smooth as 2nd,4th and 6th. I got stuck over the weekend and only could be winched out backwards. As I was trying to spin tires in reverse it struggled to turn tires and would die. It died numerous times. I am highly dissapointed in the low range of 1st and reverse. I had a polaris ranger 800xp before this. I have always been a Honda man but they didn't have what I wanted until the Pioneer 1000 so I thought.

 

[Jbird]

I had the bad shifting/lag in take off in 1st,3rd,5th and reverse. It quit doing it as bad but still doesn't shift as smooth as 2nd,4th and 6th. I got stuck over the weekend and only could be winched out backwards. As I was trying to spin tires in reverse it struggled to turn tires and would die. It died numerous times. I am highly dissapointed in the low range of 1st and reverse. I had a polaris ranger 800xp before this. I have always been a Honda man but they didn't have what I wanted until the Pioneer 1000 so I thought.

Just curious. Do you have oversize tires?

 

[Millerhunts]

Just curious. Do you have oversize tires?

28"

 

[PioneerPete]

I had the bad shifting/lag in take off in 1st,3rd,5th and reverse. It quit doing it as bad but still doesn't shift as smooth as 2nd,4th and 6th. I got stuck over the weekend and only could be winched out backwards. As I was trying to spin tires in reverse it struggled to turn tires and would die. It died numerous times. I am highly dissapointed in the low range of 1st and reverse. I had a polaris ranger 800xp before this. I have always been a Honda man but they didn't have what I wanted until the Pioneer 1000 so I thought.

I definitely agree... low should be a little lower, and reverse should be a lot lower...
have you taken it in to the shop yet?

 

[Millerhunts]

I definitely agree... low should be a little lower, and reverse should be a lot lower...
have you taken it in to the shop yet?

No. It's not doing it bad enough to take in especially if it might do it again after its fixed. If it starts doing like it did at first ,which was reving up real high, 1,3,5 I'll have to take it in.

 

[BobW]

My 1000 clutches are burnt. RPM's hit 2k before it starts to move and had it parked for 4 days waiting for dealer to come and get it.. Here's what's happen today. Started it up to move to my shop to wash it. RPM hit 2k before it started to move and drove it 150 feet/90 seconds.. Wash it. Started it up to move back to house and now it shifts like new. Started moving right off idle and no RPM spikes when shifting in 3 & 5 gear.. What's going on?? Dealer is picking it up in 2 days. Any insight??

 

[JACKAL]

My 1000 clutches are burnt. RPM's hit 2k before it starts to move and had it parked for 4 days waiting for dealer to come and get it.. Here's what's happen today. Started it up to move to my shop to wash it. RPM hit 2k before it started to move and drove it 150 feet/90 seconds.. Wash it. Started it up to move back to house and now it shifts like new. Started moving right off idle and no RPM spikes when shifting in 3 & 5 gear.. What's going on?? Dealer is picking it up in 2 days. Any insight??

After sitting it could be low oil pressure and or low oil temp, that would explain the sluggishness of the transmission upon initial take off. Then after it had been started and moved it didn't take as long to build the oil pressure. This may be also part of the oil temp and oil pressure sensor reading on initial starting, to shift that PGM take 14 electronic reading to determine how and when to shift. I have no science to prove it but it is the best explanation I can come up with, Mine sat for 3 weeks and upon first starting it up it did exactly as you described, I started it up an immediately went to put it on the trailer and it was very hesitant to move. I let it run for 5 min then shifted it in gear again took off like it should, happened to me only the one time. I contributed that experience, and the time it set unstarted as a reason for it doing so. heck even just to CHECK the oil level you have to start it up let it run for 3 min, then turn it off, and after 1 min of being shutoff then check the oil level. If the oil is draining down out of the system to require all that makes sense a person should wait a minute or three before taking off fo the first trip of the day. But that being said if the oil is checked before each use as per the manual then all that has been done so it would be moot to let it warm up further it would have been done and "primed" the system when starting it up letting it idle to check the oil. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Bayouownbeer]

My 1000 clutches are burnt. RPM's hit 2k before it starts to move and had it parked for 4 days waiting for dealer to come and get it.. Here's what's happen today. Started it up to move to my shop to wash it. RPM hit 2k before it started to move and drove it 150 feet/90 seconds.. Wash it. Started it up to move back to house and now it shifts like new. Started moving right off idle and no RPM spikes when shifting in 3 & 5 gear.. What's going on?? Dealer is picking it up in 2 days. Any insight??

Let us know what they say. Mine did something similar and few others have as well. Mine has never slipped since and never been to the shop. Just stopped on its own

 

[Jbird]

All of this this is unsettling to say the least. We have owned and do own various Honda four wheelers and already have a low opinion of the dealers closest to us because they lie about what needs repaired/replaced when you take something in and try to rape you on the repairs they say you need. Our friends that live up here across the road bought their P1k3 in Tyler, Tx where we both moved here from but that is 250 miles from here and would be a pain if we have to take it back for repairs.

 

[walexa07]

All of this this is unsettling to say the least. We have owned and do own various Honda four wheelers and already have a low opinion of the dealers closest to us because they lie about what needs repaired/replaced when you take something in and try to rape you on the repairs they say you need. Our friends that live up here across the road bought their P1k3 in Tyler, Tx where we both moved here from but that is 250 miles from here and would be a pain if we have to take it back for repairs.

I hate to be a naysayer, and I do think these problems are pretty isolated, but if I were you and the closest trusting dealer I had was 250 miles away I would either wait to see how everything washes out after a couple/few more months OR maybe look at a different brand/model that you have good local support for. I really like my P1K5 but my luck I would get one of the few units that does have issues and I'd be driving back and forth 250 miles.

All that said, we had a great time last weekend at Mack's Pines in Dover, AR. Met up with a good group of folks - there were 4 RZR 800's. They let us tag along with them and we really enjoyed it. Those RZR 800s they were on were very capable (even with less ground clearance) - I was surprised. Anyway, there was some pretty rugged terrain and the Pioneer performed flawlessly. There were several stop/starts on some real steep stuff, and there were some rock ledge climbs that took 3 runs and a couple prayers to get up, but I didn't have to get out the winch and we didn't flip over backwards, lol. My biggest problem is getting rattles solved once and for all, and I consider that pretty minor.

Waylan

 

[BobW]

My 1000 clutches are burnt. RPM's hit 2k before it starts to move and had it parked for 4 days waiting for dealer to come and get it.. Here's what's happen today. Started it up to move to my shop to wash it. RPM hit 2k before it started to move and drove it 150 feet/90 seconds.. Wash it. Started it up to move back to house and now it shifts like new. Started moving right off idle and no RPM spikes when shifting in 3 & 5 gear.. What's going on?? Dealer is picking it up in 2 days. Any insight??

One more thing to add. It was parked cuz clutches were slipping all the time and it was warmed. Now it's hard to get in gear like the clutch it dragging.

 

[Null]

One more thing to add. It was parked cuz clutches were slipping all the time and it was warmed. Now it's hard to get in gear like the clutch it dragging.

Sorry for your trouble and I hope no one else has this problem, but I am afraid time will show there will be many more. Im afraid it is how they are ridden that may be causing this but who knows. I got rid of mine and got another brand because I know how I treat one and I cant afford to be fixing clutches when the warranty goes out. I know the belts on my new one will wear out but that's an easy fix. I can replace a lot of belts for less than a clutch pack costs. Good luck.

 

[tundraman]

Actually this clutch issue seems pretty isolated but I do hope Honda will make them tougher with upgraded clutch packs.

 

[Null]

Actually this clutch issue seems pretty isolated but I do hope Honda will make them tougher with upgraded clutch packs.

I hope you are right, I wish I would have waited till 2017 to buy mine because I really like the Honda. Just scared I guess. The way my luck goes if one in 5000 is bad it would be in my garage.

 

[Buckrocker]

My 1000 clutches are burnt. RPM's hit 2k before it starts to move and had it parked for 4 days waiting for dealer to come and get it.. Here's what's happen today. Started it up to move to my shop to wash it. RPM hit 2k before it started to move and drove it 150 feet/90 seconds.. Wash it. Started it up to move back to house and now it shifts like new. Started moving right off idle and no RPM spikes when shifting in 3 & 5 gear.. What's going on?? Dealer is picking it up in 2 days. Any insight??

This sounds like the same type of problem I had back in January. It was posted on the chart that was done on this forum thread. It turned out to be a grounding issue that was fixed by a local dealer. The type of problem was removed from the chart I guess because it was not a clutch issue. If you go back to the first chart you will see it. Hope this points you in the right direction. Maybe the grounds are all that need fixed.

 

[walexa07]

Sorry for your trouble and I hope no one else has this problem, but I am afraid time will show there will be many more.

Is this just a hunch of yours? How many hours did you put on yours before you got rid of it EVEN THOUGH you didn't have any problems? How do you justify jumping from one first year model to another first year model?

I hate to be this way, but there are a handful of members here that I'd put money on that are paid by CanAm, Polaris, etc., just to try and magnify issues on competitors' forums. I don't care for backseat drivers, armchair quarterbacks, or trolls. And I don't care for fanboys that are over the top either; Honda makes some good stuff and they miss the mark sometimes too.

Off rant.

 

[walexa07]

Just FYI for nothing else than to provide information: Looks like the clutch pack cost is coming down (I think). Found it for $265 on hondapartshouse. Jackal, is that less than what you had found it for previously (I was thinking $280, but too lazy to go back and try to find it)?

I've had no problems out of mine, and it appears as though the ones that have needed replaced was only the 1,3,5, R clutch pack. Now I am just weighing $265 + 2.5 hours of my own labor against an extended warranty. I think my local dealer has good mechanics, but unless there is a special tool required I think I would feel better about the job doing it myself........if ever needed.

Waylan

 

[Hondasxs]

I agree with you @walexa07, Rather almost do it myself. I hear it is is not too difficult.
You can pick up the clutches from ProCalaber.com for just under $500 for the pair after a small discount.