trigger
Old Ironsides
Vendor
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Center the steering wheel and adjust the tie rod to straighten that side out .
Smitty335
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Did you get the steering universal repaired? If you have. After you get your new tie rod ends put back together put the tires back on and pull up to a big rock and steer into it sitting still and see if you can feel the steering box skipping teeth? That's really the only thing that make since to me, but their are far more wiser than I.
Smitty335
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Didn't know if I should change from factory setting?
TripleB
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
I dont think the axles could make a difference in the passenger side being toed out. I could be wrong but I doubt it lol
While I'm thinking about it:
I really appreciate the help! Please keep it up . . . 😆
I really appreciate the help! Please keep it up . . . 😆
trigger
Old Ironsides
Vendor
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Straighten it out and see how it feels.
Nomojic
TripleB
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Smitty335
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
If it was in alignment before, tie rods ends are good and no slop in top and bottom ball joints ( ball joints connect to the a arms ) I would suspect steering box. You might try pulling up within tie down length to a post leave the wonky tire wonky and turn the driver side tire to match the wonky angle tire, run a strap through the front of the wheel of the wonky side, tighten. Then turn to the left and see if the right tire follows? Or jumps box teeth. I'm out of ideas.
Last edited:
advertisement
All was good before. New tie rod ends. No slop or play in a-arm ball joints that I can tell.
Thank you for the suggestions. Gonna be a few days before I can revisit it, damnit.
Meanwhile, thanks and keep 'em coming!
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
I'm pretty new at this but have seen the u-joint spline slip on a P1K. It took quite a bit to get the old bolt out and replaced but that seemed to fix it.
Axles 'shouldn't' be able to cause alignment problems, they just float between the diff and the hub.
Can you drive against one trailer rail and measure the other side to check your toe-in?
Like this -
Pull up tight to one rail and measure the gap on the other side.
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Something was/is bent, whether that's a long term issue is debatable. Your buggy is "toed out" a lot, use a tape measure and some boards or a buddy and measure the distance in front of the tires and again in the rear, adjust your tie rods until you have 0-1/8" toe in at the front (front of tire measurement about an 1/8" less than rear). Take care of that first, then decide if you think there are still steering issues.
Steering Rack & tie rod ends. ( check All the Boots )
( think one piece steel rod ) <> Flat Gear in middle ( Worm gear from steering wheel shaft interacts with ) & 2 flex points inner & outer tie/rod <> on each end.
Unless <> Bent or Worn Tie/ Rod ? <> <> Does the tie/ rod end in youf vid. have torn boot & have wear?
Movement Rt. or Lt. both wheels/ tires <> Will Evenily follow Each other
If it was to chip or break a Tooth.
( Booth wheel/ tire ) would STILL Have To Evenily follow Each Other.
How ever going straight the STEERING WHEEL Would NO Longer be Centered.
( think <> A-Arm as A-Lever ) 1/8 in. Movement on the frame attachment SHORT end <> Will Be much Larger on the <> Long ball joint end of the lever .
A-Frame bent attachment <> ( A-Arm could be Bent too? )
With everything back in place.( drive the machine a little until suspension is settled )
Bring the Driver side tire into straight alignment ( as best you can ) Along with Steering Wheel.
With All 4 tires on the ground loosen & pull the A-Frame bolt that has the bent frame bracket.
Now Try to Bring Passenger tire into Alignment with driver side tire & steering ( with the Bolt OUT )
Should Rule <> this area <> IN or OUT.
May want to pull effected A-Arm ( for distortion & or bent ) & compare to another P5 series
FYI : IMO <> adjusting the passenger tie/rod to match steering wheel & driver side tire <> Now ( Will only be a bandaid on the problem )
"Weather you try this or not"
RULE Out <> 1 <> possibility at a time. <> could easily add Doubt & Confusion.
Pay close attention to each adjustment or change ( be able to return back to starting position.) if you feel thats not the problem.
As stated in 1st. post A-Arm attachment to Frame is weak spot.
Kinda long <> Hope Helpfull & understandable
( think one piece steel rod ) <> Flat Gear in middle ( Worm gear from steering wheel shaft interacts with ) & 2 flex points inner & outer tie/rod <> on each end.
Unless <> Bent or Worn Tie/ Rod ? <> <> Does the tie/ rod end in youf vid. have torn boot & have wear?
Movement Rt. or Lt. both wheels/ tires <> Will Evenily follow Each other
If it was to chip or break a Tooth.
( Booth wheel/ tire ) would STILL Have To Evenily follow Each Other.
How ever going straight the STEERING WHEEL Would NO Longer be Centered.
( think <> A-Arm as A-Lever ) 1/8 in. Movement on the frame attachment SHORT end <> Will Be much Larger on the <> Long ball joint end of the lever .
A-Frame bent attachment <> ( A-Arm could be Bent too? )
With everything back in place.( drive the machine a little until suspension is settled )
Bring the Driver side tire into straight alignment ( as best you can ) Along with Steering Wheel.
With All 4 tires on the ground loosen & pull the A-Frame bolt that has the bent frame bracket.
Now Try to Bring Passenger tire into Alignment with driver side tire & steering ( with the Bolt OUT )
Should Rule <> this area <> IN or OUT.
May want to pull effected A-Arm ( for distortion & or bent ) & compare to another P5 series
FYI : IMO <> adjusting the passenger tie/rod to match steering wheel & driver side tire <> Now ( Will only be a bandaid on the problem )
"Weather you try this or not"
RULE Out <> 1 <> possibility at a time. <> could easily add Doubt & Confusion.
Pay close attention to each adjustment or change ( be able to return back to starting position.) if you feel thats not the problem.
As stated in 1st. post A-Arm attachment to Frame is weak spot.
Kinda long <> Hope Helpfull & understandable
adjusted both sides tie rods; we shall see.
the ball joints I replaced were good; will keep for spares.
Driver side:
Passenger side:
the ball joints I replaced were good; will keep for spares.
Driver side:
Passenger side:
JACKAL
Ancient Honda fanboi
Moderator
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Do you not tempt the God's of fate?
Errybody sez I only drive gravel roads.......
The Green Goat
LGBTQ Compliance Officer -Lotta gays in this place
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
40mph on a gravel road will do that?
Went for a ride.
Toe still out a little, but camber is off.
Ideas?
Toe still out a little, but camber is off.
Ideas?
advertisement
Similar threads
