2018 1000-5 drops a cylinder at idle.

[DG Rider]

First off let me say I don't claim to know dick... but since it seems related to stator/charging/load at idle could it still be ground related? Try running an extra known good ground (jumper cable clamped at appropriate locations)
At least it would positively eliminate 1 possibility.

I was thinking about this as well. I'm not familiar with the 1000, but I was looking at a poor quality service manual yesterday, and it shows (on paper, anyway) several grounds in the system. @dakotadrone I know you said you checked them, but is it possible there is one you missed?

On the other hand, the 700 diagram makes it look like it has more grounds than you "see", because the eyelets are crimped together, effectively making it look like one single connection.

 

[Admin]

 

[DG Rider]

There's a reason there is not flat rate time for electrical. It can be minutes...or hours.

Not too long ago I did a Ram 1500 with a battery drain that was a tough one. It took the better part of a day and a half because it was so intermittent. Turns out the passenger sunvisor wires (an always suspect area) were damaged inside the insulation just enough to occasionally keep the BCM awake. Can you really charge someone $1200 in labor for that? Being a mechanic is tough sometimes.

 

[Cobber4082]

Also you said you replaced IAC valve but I thing there is wireconnector issue with that just like injectors...wire is compromised inside the insulation

 

[Remington]

There's a reason there is not flat rate time for electrical. It can be minutes...or hours.

Not too long ago I did a Ram 1500 with a battery drain that was a tough one. It took the better part of a day and a half because it was so intermittent. Turns out the passenger sunvisor wires (an always suspect area) were damaged inside the insulation just enough to occasionally keep the BCM awake. Can you really charge someone $1200 in labor for that? Being a mechanic is tough sometimes.

Well said!
That's the same stuff I deal with charging labor. You have to do it cuz its your time and the co is paying for your experience to get it right. But it sucks giving that bill at times

 

[P1K5Dave]

I will throw in that we've had guys think they've checked all the grounds, but later found that one they already checked was the problem. Those grounds can be tricky.

 

[Redtech]

First off let me say I don't claim to know dick... but since it seems related to stator/charging/load at idle could it still be ground related? Try running an extra known good ground (jumper cable clamped at appropriate locations)
At least it would positively eliminate 1 possibility.

I did run a jumper ground to engine. I plan to run a jumper ground to chassis from battery and directly from battery to engine as well in the morning.

 

[Redtech]

Well first thing this morning I hooked jumper from battery to chassis grounds and chassis to engine. No difference, dug into wire diagram An the charging plug on regulator both the ground and power wire side go into internal harness splices then power wire goes to main 50 Amp fuse which I show no voltage drop between fuse and regulator. Everywhere I check ground at shows good solid ground connection. Hooked up the mcs to watch live data again and noticed when stator is plugged the MAP pressure average goes up to around 80 kpa. Unplug an it goes down to around 62 kpa averages. Throttle position voltage never moves. Since they are linked power an ground with separate signal wires. Leads me to believe I have some issue going on with the signal wire but can't be totally sure if it cause of difference or effect from the rough idle when it gets plugged in.

 

[DG Rider]

Well first thing this morning I hooked jumper from battery to chassis grounds and chassis to engine. No difference, dug into wire diagram An the charging plug on regulator both the ground and power wire side go into internal harness splices then power wire goes to main 50 Amp fuse which I show no voltage drop between fuse and regulator. Everywhere I check ground at shows good solid ground connection. Hooked up the mcs to watch live data again and noticed when stator is plugged the MAP pressure average goes up to around 80 kpa. Unplug an it goes down to around 62 kpa averages. Throttle position voltage never moves. Since they are linked power an ground with separate signal wires. Leads me to believe I have some issue going on with the signal wire but can't be totally sure if it cause of difference or effect from the rough idle when it gets plugged in.

First...full confession that my brain doesn't work well with metric units, nor do I work on single cylinder or twin cylinder engines...but is that MAP reading typical of a p1000? It seems low...but...see first sentence.

When you unplug the regulator, does it set a code immediately? If so, the act of the PCM defaulting in "fail safe" could be what's causing it to clear up, rather than the actual unplugging. I don't know if power sports fuel injection is that sophisticated yet.

Any EVAP stuff on these?

 

[DG Rider]

Also: does the mcs have any type of fuel trim readings? How did the O2s look under both conditions?

 

[Redtech]

No fuel trim. O2 doesn't really change. Never sets any codes unless I actually unplug a sensor. It's frustrating the hell out of me.

 

[DG Rider]

No fuel trim. O2 doesn't really change. Never sets any codes unless I actually unplug a sensor. It's frustrating the hell out of me.

Sounds like it's gonna be a fun one...

 

[Redtech]

Sounds like it's gonna be a fun one...

Yes so far it's been about as much fun as hitting myself in the dick with a hammer. Lol. These are the jobs that make me question my life choices up till this point.

 

[ChadD]

Sounds like it's gonna be a fun one...

TWSS

 

[Redtech]

Well re checked my valve clearances, and compression. Swapped the injector pigtails front to rear since it's batch fire. Swapped my coils again front to rear. It stays with front cylinder dropping. With occasional pop out of front intake. Freshly cleaned plugs are totally black soot covered in minutes of running. Even though I've already replaced them I wanted to test them again and Injectors both ohm out good even after running for awhile. Did a leak down since it doesn't follow any other electrical components, which makes me think mechanical. Just feels electrical though. Has 5-7% on both cylinders through the rings. I'm losing my mind going circles on this thing. Thinking about trying one heat range hotter plugs to see if that cleans it up at all.

 

[DRZRon1]

t-shooting over the internet is tuff - if it’s mechanical I’ll send u a beer - my beer money is on electrical

my advice;

-walk away for a day - the obsession clouds the mind
-u r on to something when it runs fine with stator out of circuit
-I’d still pull every fuse that doesn’t stop the engine - who knows what customers do to machines and wiring

 

[Redtech]

t-shooting over the internet is tuff - if it’s mechanical I’ll send u a beer - my beer money is on electrical

my advice;

-walk away for a day - the obsession clouds the mind
-u r on to something when it runs fine with stator out of circuit
-I’d still pull every fuse that doesn’t stop the engine - who knows what customers do to machines and wiring

I did pull all fuses an made no change. I'm digging into dash now to get access to the second junction block to make sure no corrosion in it. Then yes I'm walking away for awhile till I hear from Honda. Last time it was 2 weeks and they never did reply when I dug in again and found unplugging stator cleared it up.

 

[DG Rider]

Ok...is it possible to unplug the stator without unplugging the ckp? I suspect not, but if you can, I wonder how it would run? The goal being to bridge any possible circuits that might be shorted without providing charging voltage.

I know you ran it with a charger and it seemed ok, so that's probably not it, but I assume the regulator was disconnected for that.

 

[DG Rider]

Oh...and one more thing to try: I know the battery tested good, but just for kicks, try another.

I once had a Dodge intrepid acting like it was possessed. Cranked and Fired right up, but then acted BIZARRE with all sorts of lights, etc. Battery tested good, but then i noticed while using a jump pack to roll up a window with the main battery disconnected that it seemed to run much better (Chryslers really hate bad batteries, more so than most). Replaced the battery, and Viola!

Only thing I can figure was it had some sort of internal short. It passed every load test we could put on it with flying colors. Worth a shot.

 

[ODAMO]

I'm no electrician and my post may very well prove it, and as we know a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous but here goes: When doing my windshield wiper i learned that in order to get the park function to work it utilizes a ground switched as opposed to positive switched circuit so when you switch off the wiper the park circuit still has power to get to the park position.
Could the coil or injector circuits be the same way and you need to find a faulty switch on the negative side of the circuit (possibly caused by the oil filled stator harness causing resistance) ?
🤔

 

[Redtech]

I'm no electrician and my post may very well prove it, and as we know a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous but here goes: When doing my windshield wiper i learned that in order to get the park function to work it utilizes a ground switched as opposed to positive switched circuit so when you switch off the wiper the park circuit still has power to get to the park position.
Could the coil or injector circuits be the same way and you need to find a faulty switch on the negative side of the circuit (possibly caused by the oil filled stator harness causing resistance) ?
🤔

The injectors and coils are both ground switched but controlled and switched internally in the PCM.