P1000m5 What did you add to/do with your Pioneer 1000 5 today?

P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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@Seth14 When you put the upper ball joints in, be watchful because you may need to stack 1 or 2 washers on before the nut. I found that I ran out of thread before it could tighten. It could have been the cheap ball joints he initially supplied.

Also, make sure you put everything together hand-tight, put the wheels back on, and get it back on the floor bearing its own weight. Roll it and bounce it, then tighten stuff up. This is to prevent binding issues.

There's some more stuff in my thread, but this is what I remember to look out for at the moment.

Post in thread 'P1K5Dave's TTC 3" Lift and Fox Shock Install' P1000 - P1K5Dave's TTC 3" Lift and Fox Shock Install
 
bumperm

bumperm

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Burned up my Warn 4500# winch on my 2016 1000-5 today... trying to pull a Dodge Intrepid up on to a flat trailer. Put the Pioneer in reverse and pulled it up on the trailer without much effort. Lowered my opinion of the Warn winch.

Dunno if this was a factor, but In general, winches have a fairly short intermittent duty cycle. At heavier loads, heat build up is rapid. I think cooling to use ratio may be as much as 10 to 1, but a quick search didn't confirm that.
 
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SaltwaterSlick

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Big Brown Truck came calling yesterday evening!! My Elka's have arrived... Thay purty! Gonna get 'em installed this weekend along with a few little wiring tidy ups... Will go to Harbor Freight next time they send me one of those 20 or 30% off coupons and get me a badlands winch to mount in my bed for loading up ol' big buck (or a nasty ol' hog or two)...
 
Seth14

Seth14

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Mmmmm mmmmm!!!!!
94117BF6 6DD1 43F3 989B 0838D0281E91
6F8738C4 258F 4E05 BAD1 B1271D4A453C
930C71AF AD60 4862 AC0C FCD143641AFF
915424AB 1AC9 4843 8AE7 DCD5B5EDDE3C
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Looking good @Seth14 . Keep up with me on your experience with this kit. In my experience, the upper ball joints are the weak link.

I went with Autozone's Duralast with lifetime warranty on them, and I've taken advantage of free replacements twice now. I think I'll swap some real Moog joints in next time to see if they hold up better.
 
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SaltwaterSlick

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Big Brown Truck came calling yesterday evening!! My Elka's have arrived... Thay purty! Gonna get 'em installed this weekend along with a few little wiring tidy ups... Will go to Harbor Freight next time they send me one of those 20 or 30% off coupons and get me a badlands winch to mount in my bed for loading up ol' big buck (or a nasty ol' hog or two)...
I couldn’t stand it!! I jumped on the install this afternoon. Figured it would be pretty straight forward and no more than an hour…. WRONG‼️Hacked er up n put er on Jack stands. Pulled all 4 tires and started with the rear end first. Those were pretty uneventful. Under 30 minutes and they were done… different story on the fronts… old ones came off easy but the Elkas don’t have much clearance below the top mounting eye and they would not bolt up to the 2 /2” Highlifter lift kit. I fiddled with them for over an hour and finally came up with a solution. Had to take the Highlifter front brackets off and machine off about 3/8” of material from the bottom of the bracket ends for about 2 1/2” from the outboard ends back to the inboard. This provided enough clearance for the Elkas to mount up and swing freely.
bolted it all back on and finally buttoned it up. Only had time for a quick spin out the drive into my pasture but I’m already in love with those shocks‼️
I learned why I’ve seen so many post that they removed the Highlifter kit when they upgraded shocks and just got lift from preloading the springs‼️ It was a genuine PITA but I’m glad I made the mods and kept the lift without having to sacrifice ride contort to get the lift I needed.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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The other reason to take out your bracket lift is to get the best of your Elka's by running better geometry. The bracket lift pushes your upper shock mount out to a more vertical position.

See how it works for you - I forgot what stage Elka's you bought?
 
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SaltwaterSlick

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Thanks Dave... I'll give it a good workout here in a couple weeks down South and see how it does. Personally from my hydraulics and equipment experience, I prefer a close to parallel stroke with any dampening system. It works more efficiently that way the more horizontal movement you can take out of the stroke... We'll see... ;) 👍
I got a lot of my own ideas from your build thread and other posts you made, so thanks for that too!
 
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P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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When I was studying the whole shock geometry thing, I learned that ideally a shock is mounted at 45 degrees. That's why you see some of the higher performance buggys with the shocks sticking up out of the hood, near the center.

I'd guess your Elkas will make up for anything you lose with the brackets and you'll like it as is. Mine had brackets and stock shocks when I bought it, and it rode like a brick.
 
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SaltwaterSlick

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When I was studying the whole shock geometry thing, I learned that ideally a shock is mounted at 45 degrees. That's why you see some of the higher performance buggys with the shocks sticking up out of the hood, near the center.

I'd guess your Elkas will make up for anything you lose with the brackets and you'll like it as is. Mine had brackets and stock shocks when I bought it, and it rode like a brick.
Yep, that's a good description of mine with the factory shocks... In all fairness though, I have hauled some pretty good loads in mine plus, pulled a pretty heavy trailer around the ranch while feeding... I can tell these Elka's will beat that! ...we'll see!
 
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Changed out my switch plate today, post Swamp Donkey addition. Moved the turn signal switch to the panel and added the fan override and under seat fan switch (both still need to be installed). Clarion head unit is no more…
A682D6AD B685 45B8 8D35 0B8C9CAEDE87
9BF66FA7 EC69 43DE B967 ABDE1D917D6B
 
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