First diesel purchase

Mopower58

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I made the assumption the drone is being cussed by muffler. That is way I am thinking about removing muffler or replacing muffler. I am curious is a 5" pipe would make a lower note that will not drone as much in the cab.
If there is a drone to be heard, my experience has shown that a straight exhaust will magnify it. A heavy load being pulled will magnify it also.
 
thashane

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Does anyone have experience with exhaust cab drone? I have contemplated this in the past. The black cummins has a MBRP exhaust. 4" pipe, MBRB labeled muffler, 4" to 5" MBRP labeled tip. In the cab at highway speeds it drones alot. I would like to get rid of the drone.
The red cummins has a non labeled 5" pipe with 2 non labeled 5" mufflers and a non labeled 5" to 7" tip. It has no drone. At all.

I know it's a different beast but my dad's duramax has 5" straight exhaust to 8" tip. His has no drone.

I am thinking about going with a 5" straight to 7" tip on the black cummins in an attempt to get rid of the drone.

I like the loud exhaust. The red cummins is very quiet. I assume it is because it has 2 mufflers.

Any thoughts?
I ran straight pipe with cat for years. Really no drone, unless I was under load. I think i towed heavy with it once, before i went out and bought a Donaldson. The donaldson is straight through, louder than stock, but i much prefer it when I'm hauling 16klbs uphill
 
HBarlow

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My '08 Ram 3500 C&C had the entire exhaust system from exhaust header to tip of the tailpipe replaced with a 5" exhaust, no mufflers. It did not drone. It sounded like an OTR semi tractor with a nice rumble. It was louder with the cab windows open.

Your results may vary.
 
Robobrainiac

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Has anyone installed a 5th wheel hitch with a gooseneck ball in the bed? Both of my trucks currently have a gooseneck ball. Can I install rails or do I need to removed the ball?
 
HBarlow

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Has anyone installed a 5th wheel hitch with a gooseneck ball in the bed? Both of my trucks currently have a gooseneck ball. Can I install rails or do I need to removed the ball?
The CM truck bed installed on my (previous) Ram cab and chassis had a gooseneck ball permanently installed in a recessed steel pocket in the center of the bed.

I installed a Reese 20k fifth wheel hitch that I had already owned and used for several years by attaching the Reese rails to the deck. That allowed me to retain the recessed gooseneck ball for towing a gooseneck hydraulic dump trailer I owned at the time and tow a fifth wheel RV trailer I also owned at the time.

The Reese hitch rails were installed side to side, one ahead of the gooseneck hitch, the second rail behind the gooseneck ball pocket.

There's a company in Chanute, KS (can't think of the name now) that fabricates all types of towing hitches, hitch extenders, and hitch adapters including a high quality fifth wheel to gooseneck adapter. I thought about buying one but a gooseneck hitch is a lot harder to hitch than a fifth wheel so I rejected the idea.

My Ram was a quad cab and I had a 75-gallon auxiliary fuel tank installed on the front of the bed. It was impossible to see the gooseneck ball from the driver's seat. The firth wheel was easily visible from the driver's seat.

Also, when backing to a fifth wheel, if the trailer and fifth wheel are slightly offset to either side, the hitch jaws will push the trailer sideways an inch or two to connect. Not true with a gooseneck. If the ball coupler is offset from the ball on a gooseneck the driver has to move over an inch or two and back under the hitch again.

I prefer a fifth wheel hitch.

EDIT: I remembered the name of the company that builds hitches and adapters. Here it is:


DSC02221
 
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WagginTail

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I have a buddy that has a B&W 5th wheel that attaches to the gooseneck ball. He likes it. Seems easy to take in and out of the truck when not needed. Why you going with 5th wheel?
 
Robobrainiac

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The CM truck bed installed on my (previous) Ram cab and chassis had a gooseneck ball permanently installed in a recessed steel pocket in the center of the bed.

I installed a Reese 20k fifth wheel hitch that I had already owned and used for several years by attaching the Reese rails to the deck. That allowed me to retain the recessed gooseneck ball for towing a gooseneck hydraulic dump trailer I owned at the time and tow a fifth wheel RV trailer I also owned at the time.

The Reese hitch rails were installed side to side, one ahead of the gooseneck hitch, the second rail behind the gooseneck ball pocket.

There's a company in Chanute, KS (can't think of the name now) that fabricates all types of towing hitches, hitch extenders, and hitch adapters including a high quality fifth wheel to gooseneck adapter. I thought about buying one but a gooseneck hitch is a lot harder to hitch than a fifth wheel so I rejected the idea.

My Ram was a quad cab and I had a 75-gallon auxiliary fuel tank installed on the front of the bed. It was impossible to see the gooseneck ball from the driver's seat. The firth wheel was easily visible from the driver's seat.

Also, when backing to a fifth wheel, if the trailer and fifth wheel are slightly offset to either side, the hitch jaws will push the trailer sideways an inch or two to connect. Not true with a gooseneck. If the ball coupler is offset from the ball on a gooseneck the driver has to move over an inch or two and back under the hitch again.

I prefer a fifth wheel hitch.

EDIT: I remembered the name of the company that builds hitches and adapters. Here it is:


View attachment 369081
I told myself if for any reason I get the opportunity to use my car insurance I would like a nice skirted aluminum bed :p

Both trucks I currently have already have a gooseneck installed in them. I do have 1 gooseneck trailer and I may potentially get another. I just acquired for free a nice curt 5th wheel that I just need rails for. I thought it would be nice to have rails in at least one of the trucks in case I ever need it. From the research I have seen so far online most people say you need one or the other. They say to pick which one you want and then use an adapter. I would rather just add rails if I could add them without removing the gooseneck ball.

If I ever have the opportunity to choose my own hitch I think I would get an underbed 5th wheel rail type system.
 
Robobrainiac

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I have a buddy that has a B&W 5th wheel that attaches to the gooseneck ball. He likes it. Seems easy to take in and out of the truck when not needed. Why you going with 5th wheel?
I may use a 5th wheel toy hauler potentially. I also just received a free new curt 5th wheel hitch. I just need rails for my truck.
 
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HBarlow

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Rails kit aka fifth wheel hitch installation kit can be purchased from etrailre.com or Curt but it would be cheaper if you could find one on craigs.list or Facebook marketplace.



Your in-bed gooseneck ball won't interfere with a Reese or Curt 5'er hitch.
 
Robobrainiac

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Rails kit aka fifth wheel hitch installation kit can be purchased from etrailre.com or Curt but it would be cheaper if you could find one on craigs.list or Facebook marketplace.



Your in-bed gooseneck ball won't interfere with a Reese or Curt 5'er hitch.
That is what I was hoping to hear. It would be nice to have the option if needed.
 
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Robobrainiac

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I just put some like new 4th gen ram wheels and tires on the red cummins. They were free and much better looking than the factory steel and so much more smooth than the junk tires that were on it. I did an alignment as well. Now I need to get some new lugnuts to get rid of the junk open faced lugnuts.

IMG20230113083432
 
HBarlow

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Free factory aluminum wheels and tires are good. The truck would look good if it was washed.
 
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Robobrainiac

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Free factory aluminum wheels and tires are good. The truck would look good if it was washed.
I agree. It is gross in Missouri currently. It snows one day and rains another and is a nice 60 the next.
 
Mopower58

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What is everyone's thoughts on the 6.7?

View attachment 358547
I had 2 of them. Between both of them I had around 300,000 miles on them. They both were worked with not just town trucks. The first was a 2007 with a delete and a bunch of hot rod stuff on it. I got rid of it around 240,000 miles and bought a 2012 Ram 3500 Mega Cab dually because I had bought a 3 axle 38ft' trailer.
 
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Mopower58

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Don't do it. Dodge is so noisy it is annoying. Chevrolet with new Duramax is so much quieter and gets more power for same mileage. My brother loves his Dodge Cummins, but every time I talk to him its in the shop. My 2017 has 94,000 miles averaging 17 mpg in town and 24 mpg on the highway. When I hook up the 26 ft toyhauler fully loaded with Honda 1000-3, 100 gallons of water and all our stuff I get 15 mpg at 65 mph. Here in the mountains of Nevada getting 15 mpg is great. My old 2004 Silverado with the 8.1 Liter gas got 10.4 religiously no matter what, and it severely lacked speed on some of our hills. With NO work required so far other than lube and oil changes I couldn't be happier. Plus its the best model, ""Paid In Full !"" since 2018.
You must be listening to older 5.9's. 6.7 Cummings are NOT noisy.
 
Robobrainiac

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I had 2 of them. Between both of them I had around 300,000 miles on them. They both were worked with not just town trucks. The first was a 2007 with a delete and a bunch of hot rod stuff on it. I got rid of it around 240,000 miles and bought a 2012 Ram 3500 Mega Cab dually because I had bought a 3 axle 38ft' trailer.
The Mega cab in the picture was a truck I was looking at. It was a deleted 6.7, I don't need another truck but I contemplated upgrading. Since that picture my neighbor co-worker friend bought it for $13k. The red 5.9 I pictured earlier showed up a couple weeks ago. I looked at it and found a transmission receipt in the glove box for last year @190k miles that was done by the same local shop that did mine and that is what caught my attention the most. So I got it for $10k. Now I have two 5.9L cummins. I just need to sell my gas 5.9L now.
 
Robobrainiac

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You must be listening to older 5.9's. 6.7 Cummings are NOT noisy.

I agree ☝️☝️☝️

My smarty tuned 5.9L cummins is very noisy. I attribute it to the aftermarket injectors and advanced timing. I even had a VERY reputable diesel shop redo my rockers after I did the injectors just to make sure they were correct. My red 5.9L is not as noisy and I presume it's all stock.

My friends 6.7L is not bad. The newer 6.7L are even better.

Referring specifically to noise production. I will be biased my 5.9L is the best ever made until I purchase a 6.7
 
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Mopower58

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I agree ☝️☝️☝️

My smarty tuned 5.9L cummins is very noisy. I attribute it to the aftermarket injectors and advanced timing. I even had a VERY reputable diesel shop redo my rockers after I did the injectors just to make sure they were correct. My red 5.9L is not as noisy and I presume it's all stock.

My friends 6.7L is not bad. The newer 6.7L are even better.
The 6.7 Cummins upped the fuel pressure on the injectors and they had multiple spray events, 4 or 5 I think. Initially they sprayed a small amount of fuel increasing with each spray event so they didn't dump all of the fuel at once thereby reducing emissions and fuel knock. I loved my 6.7's. The best thing I ever did was remove the EGR system. The oil stayed much cleaner. Also deleting the DPF which allowed for a straight exhaust plus having the programmer allowed for a lot more torque and hp. The biggest drawback of the 6.7 is reduced surface area between cylinders which made head gasket failure more common,especially when used at higher hp/higher boost pressure. A set of head studs will remedie this problem.
 
Robobrainiac

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I saw this on my way out of work today. Fresh trade in as of this afternoon. Appears all stock. I like the long bed.

IMG20230113154932
 
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