Mopower58
Unburdened by what has been!
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Robobrainiac
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
I would like to hear some thoughts and opinions.
I am thinking of selling the newly acquired red ram I have. It is a 2006 2500 cummins. Built transmission, otherwise stock. 214k miles. Cloth interior, auto shift.
I think I want to trade it for a 2004 cummins 3500 dually. 6 speed stick shift. Laramie with all the leather and wood grain. 320k on the body. 50k on motor and transmission. Motor and transmission were rebuilt 50k ago. Motor is all stock components with arp head studs. Transmission has upgraded heavy duty clutch. Nothing fancy like a dual disc or anything. Do you think I would be upgrading or should I wait for something different?
I am thinking of selling the newly acquired red ram I have. It is a 2006 2500 cummins. Built transmission, otherwise stock. 214k miles. Cloth interior, auto shift.
I think I want to trade it for a 2004 cummins 3500 dually. 6 speed stick shift. Laramie with all the leather and wood grain. 320k on the body. 50k on motor and transmission. Motor and transmission were rebuilt 50k ago. Motor is all stock components with arp head studs. Transmission has upgraded heavy duty clutch. Nothing fancy like a dual disc or anything. Do you think I would be upgrading or should I wait for something different?
HBarlow
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
You are the only person who can answer that question and ultimately you'll do what you prefer but I'll offer my thoughts.
The '04 and '06 Cummins ISB5.9 are essentially the same engine.
The manual 6 speed in the ''o4 was originally the NVG. It was a better transmission than the aluminum case 6 speed sourced from Daimler but it had a weakness. It didn't oil well. Back at that time when there were lots of them in use and being discussed on TDR, some advised overfilling it beyond factory fill level so it would lube itself better, Mine in an 'o1 had to be rebuilt at 302k but I was an RV transporter at the time pulling heavy every day.
The 4 speed automatic in the '06 was the last year of the old MOPAR automatic used behind the Cummins engine. It was the best one ever with all the latest improvements but it was still a 4 speed. It was ready for a Jacobs Exhaust Brake installation from the factory . The ECM could control the exhaust brake, activating it when the driver backed off the throttle. I had one, possible the first one shipped.
I owned three duallies - an 'o1, an '06, and an '08. Never owned a Ram 2500. I prefer duallies. The Ram duallie drove, handled, turned, stopped in a very nimble manner when unmolested. I enjoyed owning each one.
All things being equal, I would trade the ''o6 2500 for the '04 dually.
The '04 and '06 Cummins ISB5.9 are essentially the same engine.
The manual 6 speed in the ''o4 was originally the NVG. It was a better transmission than the aluminum case 6 speed sourced from Daimler but it had a weakness. It didn't oil well. Back at that time when there were lots of them in use and being discussed on TDR, some advised overfilling it beyond factory fill level so it would lube itself better, Mine in an 'o1 had to be rebuilt at 302k but I was an RV transporter at the time pulling heavy every day.
The 4 speed automatic in the '06 was the last year of the old MOPAR automatic used behind the Cummins engine. It was the best one ever with all the latest improvements but it was still a 4 speed. It was ready for a Jacobs Exhaust Brake installation from the factory . The ECM could control the exhaust brake, activating it when the driver backed off the throttle. I had one, possible the first one shipped.
I owned three duallies - an 'o1, an '06, and an '08. Never owned a Ram 2500. I prefer duallies. The Ram duallie drove, handled, turned, stopped in a very nimble manner when unmolested. I enjoyed owning each one.
All things being equal, I would trade the ''o6 2500 for the '04 dually.
Kind of like what HBarlow points out - it is preference. For me, I wanted a 24-valve, 6 speed manual 4x4 dually. I settled for a '01 2500 standard cab because I got a smokin' deal on it and it was owned by a long-time friend (I've known the truck since new).
So the options I would look at are the 2500 vs. 3500, 6-speed vs. automatic. Pick what you think will better serve you long term.
So the options I would look at are the 2500 vs. 3500, 6-speed vs. automatic. Pick what you think will better serve you long term.
B
As far as 04 and 06 go, there are a few differences. Depending on if it's an early 04 it will have an he341 turbo compared to the he351 that the 06 has. The 06 has a 2nd injection timing event to help emissions stay lower, but that can be tuned out. I owned an early 04 and had no problems with it using it as a tow pig/ daily driver on our farm for the 13 years I owned it.
My brother has an 06 dually and honestly, it's been kinda a basket case.
Both were 6 speed manuals. The 04 has a nv5600 and the 06 has the Mercedes 6 speed
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
My brother has an 06 dually and honestly, it's been kinda a basket case.
Both were 6 speed manuals. The 04 has a nv5600 and the 06 has the Mercedes 6 speed
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Robobrainiac
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
So after some conversations with my wife we are going to pass on the dually. I would prefer a nicely built auto trans which both of our current diesels have. The transmission outweighed the dually. I really have nothing currently that requires a dually. I do enjoy stick shifting but sure appreciate no shifting in traffic.
There you have it. You did what you needed to do; weigh the options, the pros and cons then make the informed decision.
You can't go wrong with either truck, it was just what YOU were going to do with it.
You can't go wrong with either truck, it was just what YOU were going to do with it.
russknight
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Rob- I do not have first hand experience with the Timbo APPS, but everything I have read about it sounds like someone took the time to dissect a stock APPS then design a much better one to eliminate most of the causes for a stock one to fail.
I was chasing an issue with my cruise control and was ready to pull the trigger on a Timbo until I found the article on the W-T wiring modification and it described exactly what my cruise was doing. So did the mod and fixed it!
Have you tried the APPS re-set procedure first before heading for a replacement?
I was chasing an issue with my cruise control and was ready to pull the trigger on a Timbo until I found the article on the W-T wiring modification and it described exactly what my cruise was doing. So did the mod and fixed it!
Have you tried the APPS re-set procedure first before heading for a replacement?
advertisement
Robobrainiac
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
From what I have read and seen so far what you describe for the timbo seems to be spot on. I have always had the lurching cruise control on my 03 since I purchased it. I have larger over stock aftermarket injectors and I have kind of blamed them for the lurching and just ignored it. Recently I passed someone on the highway and after getting around them the truck went to idle RPM level, check engine light came on, and I had no go pedal for a couple of seconds and then everything woke back up and I was able to take off again. I haven't had the issue since. I can't remember the code but it was APPS related performance. When I did a Google search for the code I found the dead pedal and lurching to be correlated to the APPS. While doing more searching I found good reviews on the timbo and the alliant power. Those are the two I am debating between now. I have not tried any resets.
From what you describe I have also read that about automatic trans equipped trucks. Mine being a manual, what I had was when I used the cruise- if you touched the brake pedal, cancel button or turned the cruise off it went to dead pedal. So pull off the road and cycle the key 6 times then get the throttle back. Started carrying my code reader to clear the APPS code and continue the trip.
Mine was the result of the engine, ECM and everything else under the hood ground wires passing right over the top of the alternator and it's magnetic field. Then those ground wires getting terminated in a splice to a way too small gage of wire eventually getting grounded. So the W-T ground mod was to move the main grounds from the passenger side battery and ground directly to the engine block, then underhood fuse & relay center ground to the driver's side battery. Field from the alternator on the ground circuit was confusing the crap out of the ECM and causing the cruise/APPS issue on my 2nd Gen. I cannot remember if this mod applies to 3rd Gen trucks or not.
Mine was the result of the engine, ECM and everything else under the hood ground wires passing right over the top of the alternator and it's magnetic field. Then those ground wires getting terminated in a splice to a way too small gage of wire eventually getting grounded. So the W-T ground mod was to move the main grounds from the passenger side battery and ground directly to the engine block, then underhood fuse & relay center ground to the driver's side battery. Field from the alternator on the ground circuit was confusing the crap out of the ECM and causing the cruise/APPS issue on my 2nd Gen. I cannot remember if this mod applies to 3rd Gen trucks or not.
Last edited:
Got a new to me Talon tugger. Not as cool as @CumminsPusher but I think he might like. Bought from my good friends dad who bought new in 2008. He is probably the most particular person I know. 108,000 miles on it and not a spec of rust which impressive for a 15yr old Ohio truck. 6.7 Cummins deleted with 6 speed auto. Says it has never been in salt, which I fully believe and I plan on keeping it that way. Full record of everything he has done to it. It needs freshened up a bit so it doesn’t look like such a grandpa truck but otherwise it doesn’t get much better for a used truck. I’m thinking less chrome and more black
Last edited:
Remington
POIDH Enforcement Officer
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Thats impressive for any truck up OH, Mi way especially a Dodge. They rot in the first 4-5 yrs quicker than any other manufacture. Nice score for you.
Thanks. I daily drive a 2012 Ram 1500 with 190k on it and no body rust. I’m sure it’s coming though. Wife has 90k on hers. We’ve had good luck so far. Not really Ram biased but seems like what we end up with. Lol.
Last edited:
CumminsPusher
Just a Honda doing Honda things.
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
That’s a nice f***ing truck! Should be a wee bit more power for you
Remington
POIDH Enforcement Officer
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Like i said before, I like 10 miles from the chryser proving grounds. See lots of mot good things lol.
Id never own one. got
Fooled with a wrangler and will never do that again 🤣 But u have to stick with what works for you. They make a nice looking truck ill say that, But thats all Ill say lol.
The rockers and wheel walls rot on them quick up here. Youd think with them being designed and made here they would have that fixed
Robobrainiac
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Mopower58
Unburdened by what has been!
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
trigger
Old Ironsides
Vendor
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Not a Dodge guy either but that's a nice clean truck Vondy.
advertisement
Similar threads
