P1000 Clutches burnt up

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Scooterchris

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Chop top?


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CumminsPusher

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It's pretty much the same as pulling the clutches just a few more odds and ins

Ya it looked the same minus a little material in the way lol. I'm not super excited about loosing speed or running r's up that high at speed even if I'm replacing them again. I'd like big tires soon and I'll definitely do this prior but might consider your lesser reduction if I don't. I just wish Honda did a better job with reverse gear that's my only issue and it sucks for us to reduce all the gears because of it. I'm excited for how well this is working out for you and sure seems like a great deal. I'll be talking to you as soon as I go bigger or you go a little smaller lol.


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Scooterchris

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@CumminsPusher
If you do not have a cutting torch and welder. We include bolts and nuts to attach the this bracket back.
If you don't cut it out of the way and reattach with cutting torch and welder you just hack saw it where the blue tape is and use supplied bolts and nuts later
This is just a rear floor board support guys. Do don't flip out please
 
CumminsPusher

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What's your other percentage you're working on?

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Scooterchris

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What's your other percentage you're working on?

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[/QUOTE]


Don't know quite yet on the smaller percentage.

On the 25 percent it's strickly for big tires. You won't loose any speed because you will be adding bigger tires. Each tru size tire you gain back about 3 mph
As for the rpms it won't run no different than normal as far as that goes it shifts perfect at or up to 95 percent throttle.
Wot it does go to the Rev limiter but we have a plug in harness that were working on to fix that. Same plug in used on the rincon and 420 reductions .
Most mud guys use manual anyway so this isn't a big deal.

There is no reason you should ever be running 67 in this massive thing anyways.
 
CumminsPusher

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Don't know quite yet on the smaller percentage.

On the 25 percent it's strickly for big tires. You won't loose any speed because you will be adding bigger tires. Each tru size tire you gain back about 3 mph
As for the rpms it won't run no different than normal as far as that goes it shifts perfect at or up to 95 percent throttle.
Wot it does go to the Rev limiter but we have a plug in harness that were working on to fix that. Same plug in used on the rincon and 420 reductions .
Most mud guys use manual anyway so this isn't a big deal.

There is no reason you should ever be running 67 in this massive thing anyways.[/QUOTE]

. We do cruise at 55-60 often enough. Thank you so much for the info I believe this will really help with the clutches. When I decide to do tires I'll coming running. Again great job with this setups


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Smitty335

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I think I am going to stop reading this thread until something goes wrong with mine.
Watch you oil color very carefully after working it hard, After some extreme wood splitting/haulingI changed my first oil change at 16 hours and was freaked out about how dirty the oil is, I saved it, still have it, just in case.
 
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Mike do you recall reversing up any steep inclines, or did your clutch go out due to some other scenario? can you give some details of when/how your clutch was damaged (to the best of your recollection)? I know fordicator's happened while reversing up a steep hill, and I think I damaged mine reversing up a steep hill also is why I ask. Just trying to see if there is a common link.
I damaged mine trying to ease up a very steep hill backwards, but it took a while to show up. I know this because I changed the first oil change shortly after the hill deal and the oil was / is extremely dirty. First symptom was gear leaver was very stiff, dealer adjusted it. Used it for 100 more hours and one morning went to load it on the trailer after I let come up to full operating temp, reverse didn't engage, same with low until I gave it a lot of gas.
 
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I think its worth mentioning at least the few issues that have happened no one has said it left them stranded where they had to walk home. I'm ok with some problems as long as I can get home to get it figured out which I'm confident Honda will do if there is in fact a problem.
Well I hope after nothing something wrong, I would have the since not to go into the deep woods, haven't been far off the beaten path and ride with some one with a rope. HA
 
PioneerPete

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I damaged mine trying to ease up a very steep hill backwards, but it took a while to show up. I know this because I changed the first oil change shortly after the hill deal and the oil was / is extremely dirty. First symptom was gear leaver was very stiff, dealer adjusted it. Used it for 100 more hours and one morning went to load it on the trailer after I let come up to full operating temp, reverse didn't engage, same with low until I gave it a lot of gas.
yep, that's how it happened.
 
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yep, that's how it happened.
Mine's been in the shop for 6 days now for a 4 hour job according to the service manager. It will be worth the wait if they solve the defect. Next defect is the heat issue I'm waiting for.
 
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If you guys do the clutch the newer way, by just removing the 1-3-5-R pack from the shaft, then this support isn't an issue. But if you do i the old Honda way (removing the whole rear engine cover) then it can get tight. But it is doable with the support in the way, the oil tank takes a little wiggling and twisting but that's about it. But Honda doesn't want us to pull all that stuff anymore, the only reason you needed to is because of the spring loaded balancer gear that unsprings once the whole clutch assembly is pulled from the shaft.

For you guys doing the interanl gear reduction, what needs to be machined on the rear cover? This cover house the oil pump (upper left in the picture on the other thread), I'd be weary that nothing got in that thing while machining. I'm sure these guys know what their doing, but be careful. One shaving could destroy and engine or cause clutch issues down the road.
 
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Smitty335

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Got my 1000-5 back this morning, Honda/Dealer Tec. Figured out something they replaced both clutches and it's like they redesigned to whole transmission, it sifts smoother than it ever been and the clunk is replaced with a click when it changes gears. I'm a happy camper for now.
 
Smitty335

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If you guys do the clutch the newer way, by just removing the 1-3-5-R pack from the shaft, then this support isn't an issue. But if you do i the old Honda way (removing the whole rear engine cover) then it can get tight. But it is doable with the support in the way, the oil tank takes a little wiggling and twisting but that's about it. But Honda doesn't want us to pull all that stuff anymore, the only reason you needed to is because of the spring loaded balancer gear that unsprings once the whole clutch assembly is pulled from the shaft.

For you guys doing the interanl gear reduction, what needs to be machined on the rear cover? This cover house the oil pump (upper left in the picture on the other thread), I'd be weary that nothing got in that thing while machining. I'm sure these guys know what their doing, but be careful. One shaving could destroy and engine or cause clutch issues down the road.
They/Honda must have gone the long route on mine, there were 32 gaskets/o rings replaced and the service manager said they chamfered the oil relief vale seats?
 
Kilo427

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If you guys do the clutch the newer way, by just removing the 1-3-5-R pack from the shaft, then this support isn't an issue. But if you do i the old Honda way (removing the whole rear engine cover) then it can get tight. But it is doable with the support in the way, the oil tank takes a little wiggling and twisting but that's about it. But Honda doesn't want us to pull all that stuff anymore, the only reason you needed to is because of the spring loaded balancer gear that unsprings once the whole clutch assembly is pulled from the shaft.

For you guys doing the interanl gear reduction, what needs to be machined on the rear cover? This cover house the oil pump (upper left in the picture on the other thread), I'd be weary that nothing got in that thing while machining. I'm sure these guys know what their doing, but be careful. One shaving could destroy and engine or cause clutch issues down the road.

I agree I disassembled all this and have to say A try to wash the engine of loose dirt so when you remove it debri doesn't fall into the housing. Even after being careful I had quite abit of surgical level cleaning to remove foreign particles. I believe the cover has to bored a smidge because if you didn't the gear would be to large to remove through the existing hole in the future and to remove the clutch you would have to take the whole rear cover off again.

I have yet to cut/grind the case inside to make clearance but my solution so far is a lot of tape and clean rags to cover all the area before I start grinding along with running vacuum while grinding. Work in progress so far. My saving grace has been having a service manual to reference all the pieces and parts. When ever he finishes the machining of the clutch and sends it back we will see how easy it is to reassemble.
 
Smitty335

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Gals, Guys I'm telling you that somethings up, after getting my 1000-5 back from a dual clutch replacement, no more cluck, just a click while running through the gears. Really smooth now through the gears. Took 6 days to get it taken care of, would have been happy to wait a couple of weeks to get this taken care of. Honda has stepped up to the plate. They chamfered the oil relief valves (what ever that means) replaced both clutch assemblies. Never the less a lot quieter shifting unit. I was embarrassed to give some a ride before (big clunk). Sounded like it was going to fail. It did. Honda great job!
 
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