P1000 What kind of trailer do you use to transport your P1k and what do you pull it with?

russknight

russknight

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Might be too much of a load to haul two...
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3wtrod

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Apr 14, 2019
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Can I make a suggestion? Mount the tire straps to the rear tires or rearmost tires on the trailer. God forbid you are in an accident, it could be possible for the machine to flip over forward. I suppose a way to keep that set up would be to strap down the rear of the machine and maybe there is one back there out of view.
Some States, like California require four points of contact when securing a vehicle to a trailer. E-track with individual wheel tie downs are hard to beat. If it's good enough for the tow trucks....its good enough for me.
 
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Travis85

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Aug 15, 2018
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JTW

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Vineyard I’m thinking about getting a 20 ft trailer. Do u ever wish it was shorter for getting around? I mean 18ft would be fine but once a year we go to HMT and I haul 2 buggy’s they fit on a 18 but a 20 would be easier. Any imput would be appreciated
If you’re going to haul 2.. get a 20
 
Smitty335

Smitty335

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Vineyard I’m thinking about getting a 20 ft trailer. Do u ever wish it was shorter for getting around? I mean 18ft would be fine but once a year we go to HMT and I haul 2 buggy’s they fit on a 18 but a 20 would be easier. Any imput would be appreciated
@20 ft!
 
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PJon

PJon

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I just bought a 12ft aluminum flatbed trailer with a 4ft pullout loading ramp and will be pulling it with a Ram 1500 ECO Diesel.
Sounds like a nice setup.
 
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tincangob

tincangob

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Nov 30, 2017
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I have a 12' Aluma trialer for my P1000 and it allows very easy load / unloading with the hydaulic tilt - great trailer, not cheap. However I have a friend that has 2 machines, and he loads one sideways and the other length wise on his trailer which is made for loading in this manner. His trailer has the fold down ramps and looks like it works well for him. I don't know the length, but you can easily figure out what you need.

BTW, I found out the having your trailer customized is not very costly. My dealer was very flexible of exactly what I wanted, and he made it sould like no big deal. I did have to wait about 3 weeks to get the trailer I wanted. I have three different trailers, and this is the first time I bought a higher end trailer, and I certainly don't regret it - aluminum, solid, larger tires, low maintenace, very easy to use. It will last a lifetime for sure.
 
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Redhonda29

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Aug 26, 2018
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Will be watching. Have been looking to find a enclosed trailer for my 1000-5 Would be nice to hear some advice from experienced
peeps.


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I have an 18ft x7 ft enclosed slant v it’s got 12 inches of extra height, rv door, I had two windows installed, insulated walls and ceiling, rooftop ac and heat it with small infrared heater, i have a king size bed that folds against wall and tables that do the same wired it for 30 amp electric hookup...I run 28” tires and on my 1000-5 with factory roof and clears just fine....works good for our family of 4 and have less then 7500 in whole setup buying trailer new...if I could do it again I would buy an 8 1/2 wide...towed with 04 Silverado with 5.3 was little much with all gear and machine tools etc. now tow with 19 f250 with 6.2
 
tincangob

tincangob

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When shopping for an enclosed trailer, I found the 7' was just to tight to allow entry / exit without crawling over the machine. I don't know how Redhona29 does it with a 7' wide. He must be younger and more agile than I am. LOL The dealer even took pictures of me driving in the 7' wide trailer to show buyers that it doesn't work.. I ended up with a open, 12' Aluma trailer with hydraulic assist which I love. The rig Redhona29 is talking about is a world above what I have, but I still spent near 3k with a few extras. Before buying an 8' or wider, make sure you have the horses to pull it and the extra $$ for gas. I've heard a few horror stories on gas milage and towing comfort.
BTW, for those of you that haven't shopped yet, these trailer shops seem very open to customize the trailer height etc., The cost of modiifications seemed reasonable when I was shopping them.
 
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StewB

StewB

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I now have a P1K5, but had a Teryx 4 for the trailer purchase.

Started with a tandem axle '14 black iron trailer with e-brakes - #1,700 dead weight.

Used that for a while and sold it - I have a 4Runner and not a truck. It came down to buying a more expensive trailer or a much more expensive truck.

Bought an Aluma 6812H aluminum trailer. The H model comes with a #3,000 axle and mounts to add e-brakes, which I did for about $125. The trailer is #640 dead weight, can be moved around by hand, and is below the threshold for Utah's annual registration fees.

I'm very happy with the switch, and so is my 4Runner - dropped over #1,000 dead weight.
 
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Mast0120

Mast0120

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I currently pull a 7.5 x 12 H & H utility aluminum with wood floor. Pulls very nice behind my Tundra. I pull it all the way forward which gives me room to stand up another small trailer behind it. I drive about 6.5 hours to where I hunt. mostly highway speeds....70-75 till I hit MN that is. I am currently looking for an enclosed trailer but not sure if I want a 7 or 7.5 wide and either 16 or 18 long. I really don't want the 8.5 wide. Looking at an all aluminum 7.5 x 16 EZ hauler with the 7ft interior height.

Snapchat 1641728768 20200928 110722
 
tdhanses

tdhanses

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I currently pull a 7.5 x 12 H & H utility aluminum with wood floor. Pulls very nice behind my Tundra. I pull it all the way forward which gives me room to stand up another small trailer behind it. I drive about 6.5 hours to where I hunt. mostly highway speeds....70-75 till I hit MN that is. I am currently looking for an enclosed trailer but not sure if I want a 7 or 7.5 wide and either 16 or 18 long. I really don't want the 8.5 wide. Looking at an all aluminum 7.5 x 16 EZ hauler with the 7ft interior height.

View attachment 256265 View attachment 256267
If your going enclosed 8.5 would be the way to go, unless your 5’3 and 100lbs to squeeze out between the walls.
 
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