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The R wheelbase is longer than the X but the overall length is the same. I know because I researched this to death before purchasing.
We shopped for a toy hauler that would fit our RZR 570 and would be light enough to tow with our Explorer. I found it does not exist so we built our own fully equipped 16 ft. toy hauler with an 11 ft. long cargo area. Our Talon R fits like a glove, even with the mattress stowed on the ceiling.
We shopped for a toy hauler that would fit our RZR 570 and would be light enough to tow with our Explorer. I found it does not exist so we built our own fully equipped 16 ft. toy hauler with an 11 ft. long cargo area. Our Talon R fits like a glove, even with the mattress stowed on the ceiling.
GPR1500SC
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Do you care to share some pictures of the inside of your trailer?
I just bought a Featherlite 16 foot v nose to do the same thing to be lighter weight.
I started with a locally built 16' cargo trailer with 3/4" t&g floor and nothing inside. I had the builder frame for the a/c, powered vent and windows. I took the tanks (45 gal. fresh water, 39 gal. gray, 14 gal. black) to him and explained where I wanted them. He fabricated brackets for each tank. The fresh water tank is between the axles, the gray water is just forward of that with the black tank near the front under the toilet. I also had him install the side door (with a screen door) 25" from the front to allow for the "kitchen".
I undercoated the plywood flooring with diy bed liner, painted the fenders black and added the lights as it only came with 4 on each side.
The trailer is framed with 1" square tube that I added 1/2" furring strips to so I could fit 1-1/2" poly iso insulation throughout, including the ramp. The furring strips also allow for easy attachment of the walls/ceiling panels. I also custom fit backing pieces from 2x4s for the bed frame hinges, mattress supports and tables.
The walls/ceiling are plastic sheets from Home Depot that are intended for commercial bathrooms. Sheets were bent over a 2x4 and heated with a heat gun to accommodate the front slope. I used these sheets for the shower stall too. They are very durable and are easy to clean. The trim strips are vinyl fence trim.
The water supply plumbing is PEX, the waste lines/vents are ABS and the propane plumbing is soldered copper.
Two 20 lb. propane tanks with automatic switchover valve/regulator on the tongue. The front shows a gfi ac outlet, spray port and the upper refrigerator vent. The propane furnace vents and lower refrigerator vents are not visible. On the side, leveling jacks, 30 amp ac service, spray port, water inlet (city water/water tank fill), cable, dump plumbing/valves along with Tornado tank flush inlets and a quick disconnect for a propane generator. The window on this side is also an emergency exit. On the other side is the side door with screen door, low profile mounting step and two propane quick disconnects for grill and fire pit.
Mattress suspended from the ceiling and fold down "bed frame". The flooring is Luxury Vinyl Plank. It is inexpensive, durable, waterproof and easy to install. I fabricated the trim strip on the back side of the flooring.
View from the side door. The "utility wall" on the left showing the powered fan vent control, tank monitor, Sirius satellite radio, switches for outdoor understep lights, kitchen light, bathroom lights, propane/CO monitor on the bottom. The bathroom has a small sink not visible on the left, toilet, and the 2x3 shower is on the right.
The "kitchen" showing the microwave (held in place with a couple fabricated brackets), cook top, sink, 3 cu. ft. refrigerator/freezer, propane furnace. The top left shows the tv antenna controls.
I hope this helps show what the inside is like and gives you some ideas for your build.
Ray
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It's a "7 ft." tall trailer but it actually about 81" inside height. The overall outside height is 9'-9".
Choogsbro
CEO of Monkey Business
Lifetime Member
Very nice job. I previously had a converted enclosed but not as nice as that one.
The trailer cost $7k. I shopped around and could have shaved off a couple thousand but I was impressed with the construction of this one and the builder did the spare tire and carrier, framing for a/c, vent, and windows along with mounting brackets for the water tanks and propane tanks at no extra charge. More than offset the $2k.
I kept meticulous records of every purchase I made for the conversion as well as any returns due to buying the wrong part or too many. As you can see, we did not hold back and did everything we (my wife) could dream of. That said, I was very good at shopping and finding deals online. There were a few items I had to pay the price for. For example the propane quick disconnects, bulkhead and hose I purchased from a local shop but the advice and know-how that came with it was worth a small fortune. I was blown away that it cost another $9k by the time we were done. It all adds up, the A/C and refrigerator were the big ticket items. The tanks were not cheap and anything that says RV on it costs more than it should.
The bottom line was $16k to wind up with a finished toy hauler.
btw, the empty shell of a cargo trailer weighed in at 2040 lbs. and the completed toy hauler with full propane tanks but no water or SxS weighed in at 3500 lbs. We tried our best at being weight conscious knowing every pound adds up. I learned ahead of time that you cannot trust any of the builders weight figures. I know these weights are accurate because I used the CAT scales.
GPR1500SC
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
I would give you triple like on your post if possible.
You did a good job on it.
That is a awesome empty weight!
D
This was my own design. I drew it out on graph paper before purchasing a trailer. Even then, all plumbing was done on the fly with a basic layout in mind. The trick was to start with all the waste plumbing since it is not very flexible (pun intended). Supply plumbing and electrical is much easier.
D
Build a set of plans for that, you may be surprised at the response.
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