GlockMeister
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I actually had my stinger freeze this past weekend at mulberry. I noticed first thurs nite after our ride...and then each morning i would have to start the machine and take the hood off and face it into the sun....then it would thaw out and start working again.
That's too bad... sounds like a pita! Glad I didn't use one.
I wonder if it is water intrusion or actually bad dielectric grease? I used to take these kinds of things and place them on a low heat source for several days, like a floor register or a really large transformer at work. Let the low heat drive off any moisture over a longer period of time. Then spray it with wd-40, silicone (I like Corrosion-X) or similar and place it on the table to cool and spray a bit on it over the next 10-15 minutes or so. If there is a crack in the phenolic, it will wick in and generally eliminate the water issue. If it is a grease issue, the lubricant will change the freeze point as well. Doesn't always work, but has many times.
FredD
I wonder if it is water intrusion or actually bad dielectric grease? I used to take these kinds of things and place them on a low heat source for several days, like a floor register or a really large transformer at work. Let the low heat drive off any moisture over a longer period of time. Then spray it with wd-40, silicone (I like Corrosion-X) or similar and place it on the table to cool and spray a bit on it over the next 10-15 minutes or so. If there is a crack in the phenolic, it will wick in and generally eliminate the water issue. If it is a grease issue, the lubricant will change the freeze point as well. Doesn't always work, but has many times.
FredD
seems likely water in the mechanism, they are not meant to be in temps or any moisture. dielectric or silicone is fine but not wd-40 it is a water attractant. you spray anything with wd that's going on a bike that's always in mud or snow it wont last long. battery spray or something like that is the best thing for electrical parts
WD-40 is not hygroscopic and does not attract water... it is mineral oil based and a partial solvent. It is not attracting water to create rust. After spraying it dries to leave a very thin film of oil. Because it does have some solvent properties, it will wash away any corrosion protection from a surface and has very little oil in it to prevent further corrosion. Hence it's name Water Displacer-40.
If interested, you can read more here:
WD-40 - Wikipedia
and here:
Glycerol Vs. Mineral Oil
FredD
learned the hard way my self, the oil attracts dirt and that crap stuck to it causes corrosion especially in salt and snow, a lot of moisture just in the air. the best thing for contacts are the other things you said, I am a electronics tech ive got conformal coating that stuff works real good, about the same as the terminal spray you get at the parts store but I had a ton of problems with my fuses on my prairies, I go through a ton of mud and snow and that was the best way I found spraying the cdi plugs and fuses with that
Try this stuff if you get a chance... you will be amazed.
Corrosion Technologies makers of world famous CorrosionX and RejeX
FredD
Corrosion Technologies makers of world famous CorrosionX and RejeX
FredD
GlockMeister
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Just ordered the cole hersee that @Neohio suggested. I guess 65 amp is sufficient?
Tigermark
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GlockMeister
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Yep..
Cole Hersee 24117-01-BP 12V Continuous Duty Solenoid (4 Stud Hex Nut 20 Ul) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8KONI/?tag=sxsweb24-20
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stuff looks interesting and about the same cost I might. the grease looks interesting too seems like that would be good for cold weather property in servicing tractors and quads around here
My Stinger froze up on me this weekend for the 3rd time. I am done with it. Generally when @Neohio recommends something its good, but wondering if others have had experience with this solenoid in colder climates? I am usually using my machine on the ice while fishing or plowing snow so its important to have my 2nd battery work properly and I want the switch on power.
Thanks,
JR
There is no manual switch on the relay if that is what you are asking... it is a DC relay capable of switching ~40amps depending on which one you buy. You provide the external switch or fused power to energize. It performs the same function as the Stinger Relay.
The guts generally look like this...
The good thing about these relays is they are all numbered the same way... once you figure out one, you can do them all!
this one is 75 amps:
FredD
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if you wanted to use a switch for the above relay you get a single throw doesn't much matter amp rating, one side to +12v other side of switch to tab he labeled coil 85 ground 86
So I would take the two battery cables off my stinger relay put them on the larger screws (load), then the smaller wires coming from my switch to the "coil 85" spots?
That is correct... the load goes across the larger screws and the control goes on the two smaller tabs.
I am not running this exact product but the one I am running looks exactly the same (gray PVC dipped relay) I got mine at the local marine store up here in Alaska. It’s been through 2 winters so far and LOTS of water (my P1K-5 is my trail boat) no issues summer or winter.... so far.
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