P1000 Stinger Question for dual battery

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Hnda_P_Ownr

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I got the True Dual setup out of the store here but have a question about the stinger. I aim installing a additional fuse block and need a stinger to power it on. What stinger are you guys using? Also should I hook the factory warn winch to the second battery or leave it hooked up as is now. Thanks for the help!
 
CID

CID

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I got the True Dual setup out of the store here but have a question about the stinger. I aim installing a additional fuse block and need a stinger to power it on. What stinger are you guys using? Also should I hook the factory warn winch to the second battery or leave it hooked up as is now. Thanks for the help!
It's my opinion that the whole point of a second battery is to power the winch to keep it from running down the starter battery so that's where I'll connect mine. No knowledge on the stinger, someone will be along in a minute.
 
Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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Winch to 2nd battery. Your trying to isolate that primary to keep it from being overly discharged. Stinger depends on where your riding. If it’s cold weather you might want to avoid the stingers in favor of something else. Mine has frozen up a couple of times but thaws quickly and it doesn’t happen often in my area. South east Ky.
 
bumperm

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Some here have used this Cole Hersee "marine grade solenoid": Contactor

I'm using a Bosch 75 amp relay, as I had several in stock. It's more than enough capacity to power my key-on switched fuse block. Note that the winch contactor is normally wired direct to the Aux battery, (or the main battery on a new machine from Honda that has a winch included, like my '21 SE). It's a simple matter to switch the winch power over to the Aux battery, which is strongly recommended.

If adding a wireless receiver to the winch controller, I recommend adding a kill/enable switch on the panel to provide power to the receiver. This to assure the receiver isn't activated by RFI or failure, as this might other wise cause winch damage.
 
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Hnda_P_Ownr

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I will look into that Cole Hersee stinger for my aux fuse block. I have seen sev people use a stinger on You Tube but never a mention on brand. Just looking for something tried and true that some guys on here use. Thanks for that info!
 
Scoop

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I will look into that Cole Hersee stinger for my aux fuse block. I have seen sev people use a stinger on You Tube but never a mention on brand. Just looking for something tried and true that some guys on here use. Thanks for that info!
Stinger *is* the brand name (Stinger Electronics).

I went with the aforementioned Cole Hersee marine rated relay.

Main winch positive to positive terminal of AUX battery and negative to negative terminal of same. The 12V+ to the solenoid (contactor) is best wired to a switched 12V supply after the relay, such as your fuse block.
 
Scoop

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If adding a wireless receiver to the winch controller, I recommend adding a kill/enable switch on the panel to provide power to the receiver. This to assure the receiver isn't activated by RFI or failure, as this might other wise cause winch damage.
@bumperm, I think you should just make that part of your signature here on the forums ... 🤣
 
bumperm

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Ok, another question, I looked at the Cole Hersee web site and there are sev different specs for those....momentary, continuous, etc. Im guessing the continuous is what I'm after?
Yes. Can be the same relay, with ratings for both intermittent and continuous duty. Continuous duty will have a lower current rating. (Not directly related, but some relays are rated only for intermittent duty, to be avoided for this application.)
 
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ehart814

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Can confirm the Stinger relay is junk. Whenever it is cold enough to need to plow, the stinger does not work. I have to use a propane torch to warm it up so that it will give power to my auxiliary fuse box (which provides the trigger to the winch switch)
 
Scoop

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Can confirm the Stinger relay is junk. Whenever it is cold enough to need to plow, the stinger does not work. I have to use a propane torch to warm it up so that it will give power to my auxiliary fuse box (which provides the trigger to the winch switch)
That's because moisture gets inside of it and freezes up. The Cole Hersee 24117-01-BP is marine rated, which means it's pretty good at keeping the moisture out (thus avoiding it freezing). I can't say one has NEVER frozen, but I can say I've never read anyone post about that occuring.
 
Brmcg324

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I suggest that you get the True isolator wired to the second battery first and determine that it is getting charged up properly with the engine running. Then work with the stinger or whatever relay (which is typically used as an extension of the key-on accessory voltage from the Honda harness.) I want to see that relay coil get turned on with the key switch accessory circuit (from the primary battery). Then tie in your aux fuse block to get 12 volts from the second battery through the relay contacts when the key is on and engine running.

Then, I would move the power wires for the winch relay last, and wire the winch power directly to the terminal posts of the second battery. It is always a struggle getting all of the wires attached to the small battery terminals, you may decide to add auxiliary bus bars or terminals to avoid a clutter of wires mounting on the battery posts of the second battery.

I like to wire each of these things a step at a time and test it. Or, you can wire up the whole circuit and then it is much more difficult to fix if it does not work as expected.

Good luck, I am planning to do the same with my 500 soon.
 
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hopeicanaffordthis

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I will look into that Cole Hersee stinger for my aux fuse block. I have seen sev people use a stinger on You Tube but never a mention on brand. Just looking for something tried and true that some guys on here use. Thanks for that info!
i have used the cole hersee all season. ne ohio, below 0 a few days here. ran like a top
 
SH21

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I’ve also been using the marine rated cole hersee up here in NH. Rain, snow, slush and below O temps so far and it hasn’t missed a beat.
21E7C0D0 6B62 458F A60B CCC622C79EC2
 
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lambertjoed

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There’s a couple of YouTube videos that do a great job of detailing two battery installation
 
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Sarbuck

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I suggest that you get the True isolator wired to the second battery first and determine that it is getting charged up properly with the engine running. Then work with the stinger or whatever relay (which is typically used as an extension of the key-on accessory voltage from the Honda harness.) I want to see that relay coil get turned on with the key switch accessory circuit (from the primary battery). Then tie in your aux fuse block to get 12 volts from the second battery through the relay contacts when the key is on and engine running.

Then, I would move the power wires for the winch relay last, and wire the winch power directly to the terminal posts of the second battery. It is always a struggle getting all of the wires attached to the small battery terminals, you may decide to add auxiliary bus bars or terminals to avoid a clutter of wires mounting on the battery posts of the second battery.

I like to wire each of these things a step at a time and test it. Or, you can wire up the whole circuit and then it is much more difficult to fix if it does not work as expected.

Good luck, I am planning to do the same with my 500 soon.
@Brmcg324 I am about to connect the winch in my P1000-5. I have the dual batteries with isolator, and the cheapo stinger everyone says fails in cold weather (I didn't catch that until after I purchased it so will use until it dies). I have a new fuse block setup with key on power from the factory accessory fuse #5, which will supply power to all accessories as you describe. Based on the layout of components in my machine, I was going to connect the winch contactor positive directly to the stinger on the key-on side. It happens to be very close to the winch contactor, so a clean easy install. The Stinger relay also has larger posts with lots of room for the winch positive cable. Is that a bad idea? In my mind it will only have power when the key is on, since the Stinger only gets power when the key is on. Do you or others with electrical expertise see any issues with this approach? I can definitely connect the winch contactor directly to the 2nd battery if that's a better way to go. Thanks.
 
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