P1000 Sorry another trailer question

[Vikes79]

I don’t know how you guys can live with yourselves and such small trailers for a huge load…this is what is needed for a P1k5..🙄🙄🤣🤣

Meanwhile most boats 17’ and shorter are on single axel trailers WITHOUT brakes and can weigh up to 4K lbs in total weight.

If your tow rig can’t handle a single axel trailer with a SXS on it without brakes with a combined weight of 3500 to 4000lbs on the high end…you have the wrong tow vehicle period.

It’s like anything else. You buy cheap you get cheap. If you go the single axel route, big tires ( like 225 15s) of good quality and proper speed rating are a must….for me this is true of any trailer I run. I change out my trailer tires the minute cracks appear in the tread or every 3-4 years.

A 10’, 12’ or 14’ single axel open SXS trailer would be a fine trailer…anything larger or double axel and you are already into car trailer territory for the money anyway. Dragging the SXS thru the air is where all the effort will be required.

 

[Admin]

 

[CID]

I don’t know how you guys can live with yourselves and such small trailers for a huge load…this is what is needed for a P1k5..🙄🙄🤣🤣


View attachment 320298

Meanwhile most boats 17’ and shorter are on single axel trailers WITHOUT brakes and can weigh up to 4K lbs in total weight.

If your tow rig can’t handle a single axel trailer with a SXS on it without brakes with a combined weight of 3500 to 4000lbs on the high end…you have the wrong tow vehicle period.

It’s like anything else. You buy cheap you get cheap. If you go the single axel route, big tires ( like 225 15s) of good quality and proper speed rating are a must….for me this is true of any trailer I run. I change out my trailer tires the minute cracks appear in the tread or every 3-4 years.

A 10’, 12’ or 14’ single axel open SXS trailer would be a fine trailer…anything larger or double axel and you are already into car trailer territory for the money anyway. Dragging the SXS thru the air is where all the effort will be required.

Thank doG, a voice of sanity.

 

[DRZRon1]

since I am known as being a little frugal at times, I built my own utility trailer to drag along and weigh as little as practical and it doubles as the furniture mover, mulch\stone hauler etc. this pulls just fine, 3500# axle, good 225x15" trailer tires, no trailer brakes behind an F-150 for under $1k. exactly 10'x6' inside dimension, weighs in a little over 600#'s. zero sway, and for the most part will not rust (it does have a steel subframe for the spring mounts\axle).

I do agree that if I had a tire going down the double axle is primo, but I drive like a grandma when dragging this thing, wanted as small as possible for storing in my garage and lite weight to move around by hand without hooking up all the time.

 

[WagginTail]

@Rtcole check out this thread.

New to me 2018 P1000-5 deluxe

I've been reading the forums and shopping for a while and finally decided to stop waiting for the 22/23's and get one used. Had to drive 441 miles to Idaho from Western Washington to pick it up, I'm also super happy with how the new tilt trailer pulled. Next time I think I'll have it a little...

hondasxs.com

 

[bumperm]

Check your state laws (and often the states you plan to visit): "BRAKES NRS 484.593 • Trailers manufactured after July 1, 1975 with a gross weight of 1500 pounds or more must be equipped with service brakes acting on all wheels with the ability to remain applied for at least 15 minutes, upon breakaway from the towing vehicle."

Adding brakes to my 16' utility flat bed trailer was easy and not expensive. When I did that, I found the original brakes, on one axle only, were installed on the wrong sides!

 

[Buckshot07]

Check your state laws (and often the states you plan to visit): "BRAKES NRS 484.593 • Trailers manufactured after July 1, 1975 with a gross weight of 1500 pounds or more must be equipped with service brakes acting on all wheels with the ability to remain applied for at least 15 minutes, upon breakaway from the towing vehicle."

Adding brakes to my 16' utility flat bed trailer was easy and not expensive. When I did that, I found the original brakes, on one axle only, were installed on the wrong sides!

Correct, laws are different everywhere. Any trailer registered over 3000 lbs in my state needs to have brakes on EVERY axle and a yearly state inspection in addition to yearly registration fees.
Im shopping for a single axle light aluminum 12’er that will not require yearly inspection to haul my 700-4.
I have a 16’ heavy tandem for hauling my compact tractor. It is very heavy empty. It wasn’t a problem when I had an F250 diesel but have since traded to a F150 crew cab. I haven’t had the tandem trailer inspected in a while since it is only used a handful of times a year and only on back country roads.

 

[CID]

I hear you! I guess the question now is a 12 tandem the right size?

Why 'a little extra' is a good idea -

 

[StewB]

Sorry, couldn't get the post link to copy, so I copied my prior post. Basically, 12 footer will do - it has about a foot front and rear for gear and tongue weight balancing.

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I think the minimum for a P1k-5 is 12 feet. You can go as small as 10 if the tailgate doesn't hit the machine, but 12 feet gives you a little more room for gas cans, gear and tongue weight balancing.

I had a heavy 14' dual axle trailer behind a 4Runner and decided to pay a bit more for an Aluma 6812H - 68" inside width and 12' inside length, with the "H" being a heavier 3,000# axle. It has 14" tires. They also make a 6814H (14 footer) and that would've been a good option, too. I either had to buy a bigger truck or a lighter trailer to get everything over Parley's Summit without feeling like I needed to get out and push.

I know a bigger pull vehicle is the better fix, but then I wouldn't be able to park my vehicle in the underground, undersized parking lot at work. I installed trailer brakes, but you wouldn't need those if towing with a bigger pull vehicle. Going to a smaller aluminum trailer saved me 1,100# of trailer weight.

The trailer weighs under 700#, I can move it around by hand, and it doesn't have to be registered (no annual tax) in Utah. This is my Teryx4 on the trailer. My P1k-5 is a little wider and shorter, but still fits perfectly.

 

[KenThompson]

I agree, you always want a bigger trailer, and more HP!

 

[Lasaun]

I bought an Aluma 6814 aluminum tilt & love it! Single axle w/ torsion & my 1000-5 rides smoothly!

 

[PJon]

You can actually haul a P1k5 on a 9 foot trailer x 64” wide if you load on the trailer backwards. I actually did this for the first year I had mine. Built the trailer back in the early 80’s for hauling firewood, bobcats, etc. When I changed tires and wheels to 28x10Rx14 with 5-2 wheels it became a real PITA to get the front tires to drop into the side channels (2” angle iron). Finally bought a 12’x68” Aluma with the 3500# axle. Going to the lighter trailer didn’t make much of a difference in towing, but loading and unloading now takes only 1/3 the time. Gas mileage still sucks when towing mainly because of the air drag.

 

[Bjk]

Still looking at trailers for my 1000-5. Found these today, decent pricing, just dont know the reputation of the brand both are single axle. The red one is a 14x76 high line HD with pipe trailer ($1850) and the black one is Dakota pipe trailer 12 x 76 ($1695) Also found a 12x 82 angle iron trailer winch as single brake axle and a spare included for $2100 which is made by cowtown? Any thoughts? Thanks

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I built a 16 ft single axle. 3500 lb capacity axle. I bent the axle spindles 2 x hitting potholes loaded close to max. Axle manufacturer said axles are marginal at capacity. Just don't hit a pothole. I put a 6000 axle tube with beefed up spindles never had another problem. Sold that one and got a tandem with dual 3500 lb axles brakes on both. Rides much better. No bouncing like a single. Love it.
Spend the money on a tandem you will love it for years.

 

[HP700]

Buy once..... cry once. If you're doing it, get a tandem axle trailer and be done.
Had a tire blow out ONCE on a single axle..... NEVER again.

I agree , Save your money buy the trailer you want. Then think about the other needs for the other things you might want to pull the trailer and get the trailer definitely with two axles. Remember bigger is always better!!!!

 

[JAL]

I agree , Save your money buy the trailer you want. Then think about the other needs for the other things you might want to pull the trailer and get the trailer definitely with two axles. Remember bigger is always better!!!!

If you ever see your trailer wheel pass you on the freeway you will be glad you have two axles. Just saying.

Jeff

 

[someguy1313]

okay. lots of good perspective in this thread.
I read the whole thing thinking i would run into the ending and a post with your final decision...
In case you haven't bought yet, here's my thoughts.

I have P1K5 as well.

I happen to be very lucky to have a lot of trailers. Six in fact. I have a small farm and lots of machines and equipement.

The smallest is a 6x8 mesh tilt bed. handles the Zero just barely, and little else.
Next, a 6.5 x 10 single and another 6.5x10 home built single, both wood beds, sides, and ramps.
I then have 6.5 or 7 x 16 double, wood bed, side rails, and two detachable ramps.
Then a 7x18 7Klb double that mostly pulls a bobcat around.
And finally, a 7 or 8 x 20 double over axle, 20 ton tilt bed that i pull with a single axle dump truck. Pulls a small dozer or excavator. (ridiculous, i know, but i use them all)

I pull with an old GMC 2500 Yukon XL 6.0.

To the point, for short trips between the house and the farm, (6 miles) a 6.5 x10 single is fine.
They have a box mounted on the tongue for straps and whatever. Easy to move around, easy to load and unload.
The P1K will fit on either one with the gaits up and have a few inches to spare between the bed and the gait.
Front wheels go all the way to the front rail on both. side rails are just the right height as to be able to open the doors and get into and out of the P1K when loading and not hit the doors on the side rails.

But if i'm going to be on the interstate, going far or somewhere remote/austere, the 6.5x16 double always goes.
Pulls so smooth, and I have so much more confidence in it. I have room for some extra stuff and i can move fore/aft to adjust tongue weight if needed. Sides are just right as well and allow easy in/out without banging the doors on the rails.

Sure, the singles will do the job, and i do keep the tires very well maintained with correct air pressure/regular inspections and axles greased, but blowing out a tire just once while loaded at speed on the single changed everything for me.
I don't want to play that game ever again.

Having the extra room for totes/coolers/chairs/gear/is so nice as well. even if it's only a couple feet.

Hope you find the right one for you.

For what it's worth, if i was looking at the three you showed for the prices you listed, the decision is easy. the 12 ft double for the win. (here in the SE, that's a great deal by the way)

Keep us posted!

 

[Paul_R]

If it’s only for your SxS double axel is overkill, easier to move a single around by hand, extra axel = less fuel economy also. A flat is a flat, got to change it anyway unless you slow down to limp mode your flat will tear apart and screw something else up. Most 2999 rated trailers have a 3500lb axel. Figure in some tongue weight and you’ve got at least 2600 payload.

 

[DRZRon1]

in PA - I used a 3500# axle for my build and its registered at 2995#, no trailer brakes required, just under the 3000# for inspection and extra taxation by PA GOV.........

if I need to haul more than 3000#, iI have other issues.

 

[Buggyman]

I use a single 3500# alum. 6x12 for mine and never had a problem. plenty of room for sxs and extra gear. had to have something I could move by myself so at 545# it fit the bill. keep good tires and maintain bearings. I also don't do any long distance to speak of.

 

[john790]

My take 16' tandem brakes on both axles with a switch to turn one axle brakes off.In the snow or ice i like one axle braking 16' is hardly long enough for your stuff maybe i take to much stuff.

 

[Irish1]

12 foot is all i really need i think. I plan on trailering my golf cart of the trailer as well.

Just a thought. If you ever think you might want to put tracks on your machine consider if 12' is long enough. It is a problem because over that you usually end up with having to go doubke axle and more trailer weight so need to also have adequate towing capacity. Just food for thought.