P500 Snow Plow recommendatons for P520

Scoop

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Sorry to go sort of off topic, but I have a warn provantage front mount bracket, and wondering if the KFI blades the same mount pattern?
The Provantage setup is three parts:

Front mount (vehicle-specific)
Push tube (generic)
Blade (generic)

What does the non-blade end of the KFI push tube look like? I highly doubt it will fit the warn front mount. The vehicle-specific front mount includes parts (tabs) that install on the generic push tube, so if you don't have those, you're not even close.

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Tom_C

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The Provantage setup is three parts:

Front mount (vehicle-specific)
Push tube (generic)
Blade (generic)

What does the non-blade end of the KFI push tube look like? I highly doubt it will fit the warn front mount. The vehicle-specific front mount includes parts (tabs) that install on the generic push tube, so if you don't have those, you're not even close.

View attachment 409295

View attachment 409294

I have the whole system... just saw the KFI poly blade and the wheels started turning, but I'll just use what I have until for now.
 
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Scoop

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I have the whole system... just saw the KFI poly blade and the wheels started turning, but I'll just use what I have until for now.
Ahh, so you have the front bracket AND the push tube. Your post only said front bracket.

If you have the whole system, why do you want to put a KFI blade on it? If you want a different blade, why not get a Warn blade?

I've had my Provantage setup on my Grizzly since '14. It's a solid system.
 
Tom_C

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Ahh, so you have the front bracket AND the push tube. Your post only said front bracket.

If you have the whole system, why do you want to put a KFI blade on it? If you want a different blade, why not get a Warn blade?

I've had my Provantage setup on my Grizzly since '14. It's a solid system.

Why do I want to do anything? Just looking for ways to spend money is all. I just specified I had the front mount instead of the center mount, but all I was asking about was the blade attachment.

Actually, I have a 54 inch blade, and I have bigger tires (27s) and 1 inch spaces all around so I was thinking of going to 60 inches to give a bit wider path when the plow is pitched, and thought the poly might be lighter. I don't really need it, just thinking...
 
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John Mc

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Poly appears to be about the same weight as the steel one. Probably because they need more steel reinforcement behind the poly blade?
 
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Tom_C

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Poly appears to be about the same weight as the steel one. Probably because they need more steel reinforcement behind the poly blade?

Dunno... something I saw on youtube said it was taller than the Warns which I guess makes a difference? It goes to eleven :)
 
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The Green Goat

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Poly appears to be about the same weight as the steel one. Probably because they need more steel reinforcement behind the poly blade?
It's about 6" taller too
 
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driller

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Just wanted to add my 2 cents...

Being a driller by trade, working with wire rope is quite familiar and I don't necessarily see why you would need to swap for a strap just because. For no more use mine gets, it certainly isn't worth it to me. If I note excessive wire rope wear, I'll just cut the end off and weave a new eye loop on the end and call it done. There's certainly plenty of rope length for many seasons. ;)

Here's a quick how to: Rope eye

Now if I was constantly hauling out a lot of winch line, I would opt for synthetic rope for sure. I equipped the winch on my car hauler with synthetic rope and appreciate its properties for that application. So if that fits your application, it may very well be advantageous to swap for a strap versus the synthetic rope.
 
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Kilroy

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Using a snow plow is not as hard on steel winch ropes compared to synthetic winch ropes. And most of the time one will be fine using a steel rope. It is definitely recommended to use a flat strap if you normally have a synthetic rope installed on your winch. I found that out the first time I plowed with my P500.
 
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I finally have all the parts in, and am about to mount my 66" KFI poly plow for the first time (as soon as the portable heater in my workshop warms things up enough to work comfortably.)

For those of you who have mounted a plow on the front of your P500/520: were you happy with the stock shocks and were you able to get by with just adjusting for a stiffer ride, or did you end up needing to replace the shocks? I'm not looking for "high performance" use. My P520 is used for working in the woods, and now adding light snowplow duty on the driveway. The woods trails are mostly in good shape: a few rough/rugged spots, but far from rock crawling duty here.
 
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John Mc

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Stock shocks worked fine
Thanks. The previous owner had the shocks adjusted as soft as they can go. I think I'll probably need to crank the front shocks up a notch or two.

Is there some alternative to the special tool used to adjust the spring pre-load?
The manual says: "Use the pin spanner to adjust the shock spring pre-load. Pin spanner part number: 07702-0020001"

I don't have one of those, and the dealer I bought the KFI set-up from is not a Honda Dealer, so I'm not sure he would have that in stock. Even with the front end jacked up, I'm not able to turn that pre-load adjuster. Has anyone come up with a common tool that will work?
 
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The Green Goat

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Thanks. The previous owner had the shocks adjusted as soft as they can go. I think I'll probably need to crank the front shocks up a notch or two.

Is there some alternative to the special tool used to adjust the spring pre-load?
The manual says:


I don't have one of those, and the dealer I bought the KFI set-up from is not a Honda Dealer, so I'm not sure he would have that in stock. Even with the front end jacked up, I'm not able to turn that pre-load adjuster. Has anyone come up with a common tool that will work?
I never adjusted mine, but I think a punch and hammer will do it if you jack up the front end to take the load off the suspension.
 
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Smitty335

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Thanks. The previous owner had the shocks adjusted as soft as they can go. I think I'll probably need to crank the front shocks up a notch or two.

Is there some alternative to the special tool used to adjust the spring pre-load?
The manual says: "Use the pin spanner to adjust the shock spring pre-load. Pin spanner part number: 07702-002000"

I don't have one of those, and the dealer I bought the KFI set-up from is not a Honda Dealer, so I'm not sure he would have that in stock. Even with the front end jacked up, I'm not able to turn that pre-load adjuster. Has anyone come up with a common tool that will work?
You can probably pick up a set of Spanner wrenches at Harbor Freight cheap.
 
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Kilroy

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The stock shocks are fine with my Tusk 60" plow. Here is a photo of my setup. Don't mind the mess as I was cleaning up the garage today.

Snow plow
 
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trigger

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Thanks. The previous owner had the shocks adjusted as soft as they can go. I think I'll probably need to crank the front shocks up a notch or two.

Is there some alternative to the special tool used to adjust the spring pre-load?
The manual says: "Use the pin spanner to adjust the shock spring pre-load. Pin spanner part number: 07702-002000"

I don't have one of those, and the dealer I bought the KFI set-up from is not a Honda Dealer, so I'm not sure he would have that in stock. Even with the front end jacked up, I'm not able to turn that pre-load adjuster. Has anyone come up with a common tool that will work?
Take the load off of it and you can use channel locks. Use a rag or something so you don't booger it up.
 
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John Mc

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Take the load off of it and you can use channel locks. Use a rag or something so you don't booger it up.
Thanks. I had it jacked up so the wheel was off the ground and could not budge it with a punch. I'll try the channel locks. I put a little penetrating oil on it and letting that soak a bit. I'll try the channel locks. Should I try to grab on the tabs, or down on the neck of the adjuster?
 
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Old Ironsides
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Thanks. I had it jacked up so the wheel was off the ground and could not budge it with a punch. I'll try the channel locks. Put a little penetrating oil on it and letting that soak a bit. I'll try the channel locks. Should I try to grab on the tabs, or down on the neck of the adjuster?
Whatever it takes to get a good bite, it'll move.
 
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