P1000 Parking brake

snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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The rear brake line is right under the seat also.

I just bought this and going to try something like this.
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DSCF1227
 
snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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Also the duty cycle on an electric line lock for a drag car in not very long. Like 1 minute or so from what I've saw.
 
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CumminsPusher

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Also the duty cycle on an electric line lock for a drag car in not very long. Like 1 minute or so from what I've saw.
I've heard that a bit. Some of the jeep guys are swearing to a longer grab. A low pressure switch can be added as well. I want something that cannot be on while in drive but haven't spent much time lately and it'll be a bit
 
Big_Daddy

Big_Daddy

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I apologize that I have not yet. Mine is currently pulled as I was planning an electric set based off of the safety neutral switch so a little tough to explain a few things however it's pretty simple. I'll get some pics in later today

Any chance of maybe a parts list as well? This is and a snorkel are high on my priority list along with the vent line kit I ordered from another member
 
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CumminsPusher

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Any chance of maybe a parts list as well? This is and a snorkel are high on my priority list along with the vent line kit I ordered from another member
Snorkel is top! Do you have experience flaring steel lines that is the main thing
 
popeye

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Also the duty cycle on an electric line lock for a drag car in not very long. Like 1 minute or so from what I've saw.
I'll have to look at what's on my one ton. But it has to have the switch turned on when setting it with the pedal. And once it's set you can let off the pedal and turn off the togle and it still holds, I have left it overnight and it still is holding in the morning, no duty cycle issues with it. takes more pressure than what was originally applied to get it to release. Not familiar with it, the previous owner installed it cause a Dodge with out an auto tranny's Park is kinda dangerous

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Big_Daddy

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Snorkel is top! Do you have experience flaring steel lines that is the main thing

Dude I can't even flare my nostrils. LOL! I don't know the first thing about flaring steel lines.

I want to do the snorkel like a couple guys in the main snorkel thread did with the pvc between the bed and front, but I gotta get more info from those guys. They mentioned cutting, but I don't know what they cut.
 
CumminsPusher

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Dude I can't even flare my nostrils. LOL! I don't know the first thing about flaring steel lines.

I want to do the snorkel like a couple guys in the main snorkel thread did with the pvc between the bed and front, but I gotta get more info from those guys. They mentioned cutting, but I don't know what they cut.
I'll pm
 
J

JTW

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Dude I can't even flare my nostrils. LOL! I don't know the first thing about flaring steel lines.

I want to do the snorkel like a couple guys in the main snorkel thread did with the pvc between the bed and front, but I gotta get more info from those guys. They mentioned cutting, but I don't know what they cut.
Flaring brake lines is suuuuper easy.. you just need the flaring tool and a cutter
 
Tramguage1

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Tramguage1

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Looking for a mechanical braking system
@Kilo427 cut a nrake line and had NO brakes.

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CumminsPusher

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Looking for a mechanical braking system
@Kilo427 cut a nrake line and had NO brakes.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
So did Snuffs rig. They did still go though. We drove a weekend with none because of barb wire. We have to be thankful of the engine breaking on the Pioneers. If these were any other brands we'd be screwed.
 
Buford

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Flaring brake lines is suuuuper easy.. you just need the flaring tool and a cutter

I wouldn't consider it super easy. It takes some practice to do it properly so it turns out uniform/symmetrical. And I would recommend a Snap On or equivalent quality flaring tool.
 
CumminsPusher

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I wouldn't consider it super easy. It takes some practice to do it properly so it turns out uniform/symmetrical. And I would recommend a Snap On or equivalent quality flaring tool.
It does take a little bit of patience. I wouldn't say snap on tool required but not the cheap ass units either. I haven't been super excited to do a write up because even though it's simple process for the most part if something goes wrong it's loosing brakes and I'd hate to have someone get hurt. I did make a bunch of these but all sets I sent out were totally free of charge partially because of that and I stopped doing them because I wouldn't be ok if something bad happened and I was the cause
 
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J

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I wouldn't consider it super easy. It takes some practice to do it properly so it turns out uniform/symmetrical. And I would recommend a Snap On or equivalent quality flaring tool.
Nahhh, it's pretty freak'n simple. If you can't flare a line then you really shouldn't be working on your stuff. Lol...

Snap On?? HA!!! Maybe that's why you needed practice.
 
Kilo427

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Yeah it needs to be along the lines of what snuff is thinking about. If you compromise the hydraulic line then all braking will fail line loc or not. He's on the right track.
 
CumminsPusher

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Yeah it needs to be along the lines of what snuff is thinking about. If you compromise the hydraulic line then all braking will fail line loc or not. He's on the right track.
I totally agree. The price will be lots more though and a more difficult install. I think experienced drivers would be ok even with a problem but I sure didn't want something because of me.
 
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