P1000 I finally found and purchased a used P1K5 - next steps? Pics!

[JoeyL]

For replacing the “A” arms on both sides, what is recommended? OEM? Aftermarket?
If/when I replace them, will I need any other parts?

If you go with aftermarket arms that are forward offset you will likely need upgraded axles (in combination w the lift).
i am not aware of aftermarket arms that dont have an offset.
so you have three paths: add aftermarket arms and new axles to the front, replace the arms w stock and stop there (cheapest option), or replace the arms w aftermarket and ditch the bracket lift (but then this may cause rubbing in the back).
I am running 30's w/o any rubbing in front on only SATV arms. however there was rubbing in the back. i fixed it w aftermarket shocks w a higher spring rate and some preload

As for the shocks, I assume the stock OEM ones in there are “OK”. If I were to replace them on a budget, what are some recommended ones (not wanting to break the bank – on a budget)?

not sure that the words shocks and budget go together...
i think the Fox shocks are the most affordable? typically about 1500, but i think someone found them for 1200 recently and posted it on the forum

so i would bet just going w the OEM arms is the way to go for now if you dont want to start spending a lot.

try putting a straight edge on both the upper and lower arms on both sides to make sure you get a full count of whats damaged

if you end up needing a full set of OEM i can probably make a deal w you on my takeoffs.

 

[Admin]

 

[Adam490]

I appreciate the help.

Addressing some of the questions:

• No wheel spacers in the front, but the back has what looks like 2” spacers, presumably to offset moving to the same size tires on front and back.
• The wheels don’t rub except in very tight turns. Previous owner mentioned this and said if he could do it again, he’d have gone with 28’s instead.

Other than uneven tire wear and appearance, is there any other issue with the negative camber on the front wheels?
For replacing the “A” arms on both sides, what is recommended? OEM? Aftermarket?
If/when I replace them, will I need any other parts?

What are the best web sites people generally use here for OEM Honda parts for Pioneers?

As for the shocks, I assume the stock OEM ones in there are “OK”. If I were to replace them on a budget, what are some recommended ones (not wanting to break the bank – on a budget)?

You can probably find a set of good OEM arms with the ball joints still in them that someone has taken off. That's the cheapest option for sure. Check FB Marketplace or put an ad up in the Buy/Sell/Trade section here. Lot of guys that mud ride and take them off before they ever even ride them down here to put huge lifts and portals. If you want extra clearance for the larger tires and stronger arched-arms, I'd recommend the SuperATV. They are the only one that offers an arched arm setup that doesn't also lift the machine as far as I know. You'll need new ball joints, or press your existing ones out, but I'd just grab some new OEM if you are going through the trouble of upgrading the arms anyway. If you want a built in lift with the arched forward arms there are other options (Texas Tough Customs - TTC and CFAB) but they are pricier than the SATV setup.

Partzilla.com and RockyMountainATV.com have always been good to me when it comes to OEM parts. Just check price between the two because one always seems to be cheaper than the other on certain things.

Stock shocks will be fine as long as you want them to be, lol. I'd list Elka stage 4-5 as the "best" shock upgrade, Walker Evans next in line, then Fox QS3, and then 814. Fox QS3 would be my recommendation if you want best bang for the buck as you can find them for around $1300 or so pretty regularly.

 

[Homer]

Research SATV Arched Arms for replacements. They are widely recommended here.

 

[JoeyL]

You can probably find a set of good OEM arms with the ball joints still in them that someone has taken off

nice timing

 

[P1K5Dave]

You don't need new axles to go with forward arched arms. Even the Texas Tough Customs I'm running with 3.5" forward can run just fine on stock axles. Rhino 2.0 axles are an excellent upgrade, to be sure...but you can spend in intervals.

TTC also makes forward arms without lift.

 

[JoeyL]

You don't need new axles to go with forward arched arms. Even the Texas Tough Customs I'm running with 3.5" forward can run just fine on stock axles. Rhino 2.0 axles are an excellent upgrade, to be sure...but you can spend in intervals.

TTC also makes forward arms without lift.

agreed but dont you need axles when you have bracket lift + forward arms?
this is SATV recommendation. not sure why i believe them. im running 30's w just arms and they say thats not possible either...

 

[P1K5Dave]

@jtb33 welcome to the world of UTV ownership - lots of ways to spend your money, but it's all fun and you really get to enjoy your upgrades.

You're riding on about the worst setup you can have on a Pioneer as far as ride comfort - stock shocks and a bracket lift. Mine was like that for the first whole year I drove it, and I was generally ok with it, until I wasn't.

The stock shocks are poor, and they're made worse by the bracket lift, which changes your geometry to where your shocks are almost vertical, like pogo sticks.

You can read my thread about my suspension and shock upgrade that I just did last month.

 

[P1K5Dave]

agreed but dont you need axles when you have bracket lift + forward arms?

With SATV, aren't they calling for them with the bracket lift *and* lifted arms, where you're nearing 6"? I'm not sure what they recommend. But I know with the TTC kit, I'm at 3 lift, 3.5 forward and the manufacturer says stock axles will work fine.

 

[bumperm]

Still a good deal on the buy, but you should have checked the seller's teeth for cracks! With those bent arms, he must of jumped it big time and failed to deploy the ballistic recovery chute prior to the "landing"!

 

[P1K5Dave]

If you get a chance, take some width measurements across the front and rear wheel spacing. That front looks wider than I'd expect without spacers, so I'm wondering if he used higher offsets on the front.

Could just be the images, too.

 

[P1K5Dave]

On your shopping, ronayers.com is the newest one I've been clued into, because they had a great price on the fox shocks. I looked around a bit and found some good prices on other things as well. You have to register an account with them to see the better prices.

 

[05Willys]

I was about to post the same thing. Definitely appears to be bent:

View attachment 285980

Me too, any cracked and wrinkled paint/powder coat is a definite sign of an issue.

 

[PJon]

Not sure what part of AZ you’re riding, but here in the Oracle area, we are riding between 2,500 and 9,000 ft elevations. There is a noticeable power loss over 7,500 ft and I’m running 28” tires. If climbing up over ledges like you find on Charouleau Gap or Rug Rd. You’ll have to bump the ledges fairly hard to not trash your clutches with the 30” tires. I went with the 814 three way shocks on mine, 350# springs front and 400# rear springs. Clearance behind front tires 13” to bottom of 1/2” skid plate and 14-1/4” in front of rear tires using the shock lengths recommended by 814. I still scrape a few rocks on the trails rated at 3.5 for Jeep’s but no more dents in the frame. I’m still running stock “A” arms and there is no rubbing with System 3 350’s, 10x28x14’s.

 

[Ohio4x4]

I appreciate the help.

Addressing some of the questions:

• No wheel spacers in the front, but the back has what looks like 2” spacers, presumably to offset moving to the same size tires on front and back.
• The wheels don’t rub except in very tight turns. Previous owner mentioned this and said if he could do it again, he’d have gone with 28’s instead.

Other than uneven tire wear and appearance, is there any other issue with the negative camber on the front wheels?
For replacing the “A” arms on both sides, what is recommended? OEM? Aftermarket?
If/when I replace them, will I need any other parts?

What are the best web sites people generally use here for OEM Honda parts for Pioneers?

As for the shocks, I assume the stock OEM ones in there are “OK”. If I were to replace them on a budget, what are some recommended ones (not wanting to break the bank – on a budget)?

Super atvs arched arms will cure the rubbing and correct the bent arms. Get new oe ball joints to go with them. Its not worth reusing the ones from your stock arms.

 

[HBarlow]

Looks like a nice one with a number of desirable accessories.

 

[Monkypops]

I don't have any suggestions, but that is one nice machine! Good score!

 

[05Willys]

Awesome! Have fun!

 

[Robobrainiac]

High lifter makes arched forward arms that do not add lift. They are the cheapest aftermarket option. So far I like mine.

 

[Robobrainiac]

The highlifter is not adjustable but my alignment with bracket lift turned out good

 

[jtb33]

Ok - am meeting someone tomorrow locally that gave me a great deal on lightly used control arms (with ball joints). Now to figure out what I'm in for to replace these... I'm somewhat mechanically inclined in that I can comfortably change the oil, change out brake pads, even changed out an airbag strut on my SUV... but this'll be my first time doing control arms. Any videos, tips or tricks for the job?