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Couldn't tell you, you must be one of the lucky ones. They didn't built any extra into the system so if there is just one little thing out of spec, you are going to have heavy steering.I’m just comparing the finger steering test as you described it stopped on concrete, effortless steering at slow speeds etc…
Mine is like that now.
Perhaps there’s also differences between 2 and 4 seater…?
I am running 30X10 Terrabites at 12 psi during these tests.Paul,
I'd definitely be interested in a plug and play.
What size tires are you testing with?
Any downsides you foresee that could come up with the ecu so close to the motor?
Thanks again!
s
Terry, thanks for the interest!I absolutely would be in for a plug and play solution to this problem. Be glad to send $300 right now! Hope you make this a reality Paul!
That is a great question but simple relays will not work for this application. Relays are an on/off switch but the PS ECU inverts the voltage down and varies it from 0-6 volts and and cranks the amperage up and varies from 0-35 amps depending on demand/assist needs. It also jumps polarity depending on if is assisting left or right.Great work! We really appreciate your effort to finding a fix. The lack of power steering has been one of my biggest complaints on the talon.
First off, I am not very educated in 12v wiring, so please forgive me if this is a stupid thought. Would there be any alternative ways of approaching the fix? Could the power wire that is feeding the power steering be put to a relay and then have the relay feed power direct from battery? Maybe from a second battery mounted in front or just larger cables going back to battery? Basically taking the computers control away from the power steering and providing needed power.
Thanks. Lot more going on there than I realized.That is a great question but simple relays will not work for this application. Relays are an on/off switch but the PS ECU inverts the voltage down and varies it from 0-6 volts and and cranks the amperage up and varies from 0-35 amps depending on demand/assist needs. It also jumps polarity depending on if is assisting left or right.
The ECU is actually just a fancy bunch of variable electronic relays (mosfets) that take a low voltage/amperage signal from the torque sensor (switch if you will) and "relay" varying battery power to the motor. The ECU is basically a fast/smart relay.
I won't permanently do it on the stock wiring but you could try if you want and it would help a little but now all you are doing is pushing 35 amps (instead of 30) over a wire designed to only carry 20. Not ideal, especially when the wire starts to warm up (even get hot with extended use) and the resistance increases and the voltage drop increases with it until you have to stop and let the wire cool down so you can get your assist back.Thanks. Lot more going on there than I realized.
What about making a quick and easy plug and play to make it think its always in 4wd to get that extra help?
I would be all over a plug and play setup.Question for all those following here. If you wanted/needed to do this to improve your steering, would you "hack" your own like I did or you rather buy and install a plug and play kit. Plug and play meaning...
Probably cost around $250-$300 and take the average person about 90 minutes.
- Disconnect all battery negative cables.
- Remove the rubber mat covering the ECU, the center console, and the cowl behind the hood.
- Unplug and remove the ECU.
- Disconnect the torque sensor and the motor leads.
- Run a provided wire harness down the tunnel to extend the 21 pin control connector.
- Attach the power feed leads via a provided circuit breaker to the factory winch cables with provided studs or to your existing winch relay if a winch is installed.
- Mount ECU under cowl using supplied mount.
- Plug in the torque sensor, motor and ECU to the new harness.
- Reconnect battery(s) and test.
- Put the cowl, center console and mat back.
Got it. If only Honda would have done it right to begin with.I won't permanently do it on the stock wiring but you could try if you want and it would help a little but now all you are doing is pushing 35 amps (instead of 30) over a wire designed to only carry 20. Not ideal, especially when the wire starts to warm up (even get hot with extended use) and the resistance increases and the voltage drop increases with it until you have to stop and let the wire cool down so you can get your assist back.
Trying to compensate for an inferior wire by pushing more amps is not good electrical practice because it doesn't work very well, generates excessive heat and can be dangerous if extreme. Just try doing in your house and see what the inspector thinks about it .
Progress on procuring parts for the plug and play harness have begun. 4 of the plugs are common, one is rare and the 6th doesn't exist (yet). I have a custom molding outfit looking at making the rare and non existent plugs, should know something in a few days.I would buy one! Have you installed the torq locker yet? The weak power steering is the main reason I have held off on the locker.
I'm sure you probably already have checked places like this but here's the link to where we get all our needed connectors for automotive repair. We send them a few pictures of what we need and they seem to always come up with it.Progress on procuring parts for the plug and play harness have begun. 4 of the plugs are common, one is rare and the 6th doesn't exist (yet). I have a custom molding outfit looking at making the rare and non existent plugs, should know something in a few days.
I have the locker sitting on my desk. I had the same concern but now with the ECU relocated, I am optimistic that it will be acceptable. I will install the locker this week and hopefully begin testing the steering with the locker next weekend (weather permitting).
Stay tuned!
I'm sure you probably already have checked places like this but here's the link to where we get all our needed connectors for automotive repair. We send them a few pictures of what we need and they seem to always come up with it.
Automotive Connectors | Connector Experts
Looking for the best automotive connectors on the market? Connector Experts has an expansive collection of products. Shop for top-quality connectors.connectorexperts.com
Thanks guys and yup, tried all of them and a dozen more. They all have the common 4, those are easy. And as of an hour ago, I have now sourced the somewhat rare plug so I am down to only 1.I have used corsa-technic.com with success as well.
Heilind.com is another resource.
I assumed you were way past that but figured I'd ask just in case. Looking forward to hearing your results after the dune test. I'm getting the RB3 billet rack in the Talon in the next couple of weeks. Don't think it'll improve this issue at all but should bulletproof the system with the JSports tie rods I have already.Thanks guys and yup, tried all of them and a dozen more. They all have the common 4, those are easy. And as of an hour ago, I have now sourced the somewhat rare plug so I am down to only 1.
It is the 21 pin. It is a special ECU connector only used on control modules. I found the manufacturer of the plugs but the male plug only comes in a PCB format so an inline version will need to be designed and molded around standard available pin terminals. It is doable, just need to find out R&D cost and minimum order stuff.
I am close! Still more real world testing to do to make sure that once I determine costs/price that the is cost vs. benefit is enough to justify this mod. I think it is so I am headed out to the dunes next weekend with a tire/wheel combo that gave me absolute fits last fall. If that goes well, I will be extremely pleased!
Did you locate the 2 pin brown connector? I have been unable to find that one before giving up and cutting one off a used harness.Thanks guys and yup, tried all of them and a dozen more. They all have the common 4, those are easy. And as of an hour ago, I have now sourced the somewhat rare plug so I am down to only 1.
It is the 21 pin. It is a special ECU connector only used on control modules. I found the manufacturer of the plugs but the male plug only comes in a PCB format so an inline version will need to be designed and molded around standard available pin terminals. It is doable, just need to find out R&D cost and minimum order stuff.
I am close! Still more real world testing to do to make sure that once I determine costs/price that the is cost vs. benefit is enough to justify this mod. I think it is so I am headed out to the dunes next weekend with a tire/wheel combo that gave me absolute fits last fall. If that goes well, I will be extremely pleased!
Yup, sourced the brown connector at 1 supplier and have another ready to make it (and the male 21 pin) for me from scratch if necessary to get all of my order. Cost will dictate which way I go.Did you locate the 2 pin brown connector? I have been unable to find that one before giving up and cutting one off a used harness.
I'm fairly sure I found the 21 pin, but only the one side as you mentioned.
I have not had a need to looked for the others yet.
If you need help with some of the connector MOQ's to test... I'll split it with you to keep on hand here.
Thanks.