P1000 Forwards AArms and Shocks P1000

[Smitty335]

Isn't that exactly what the OP is doing, @Smitty335 ?

No, he's relying on here say. Go read it, shock / spring set up. You should also, as well as every body buying shocks

 

[Admin]

 

[Scamih]

I appreciate your response. I’ll try it without the axels.

As far as shocks go, I’m not wanting to spend 1200 on new shocks but my current shocks suck. I wasn’t looking for the lift but they have them. This seems like a good value option to improve shocks.

At the risk of setting another response about checking the other posts. I see that going with 30s is the safest option with the Superatv forward an arms, I’m a tusk fan and I see that I can get 31x10x14 that will fit. How many guys have tried 31s with these an arms. There were a couple places at Royal Blue this weekend I could have used 31s 30s probably would work too.

In my opinion I would run the OE axles and replace with rhino when needed.

I am sure the professional @SuperATV will have a good recommendation.

 

[Scoop]

No, he's relying on here say. Go read it, shock / spring set up. You should also, as well as every body buying shocks

I don't think you understand the value of the experiences of others. IMHO, Hondasxs.com is EXACTLY the place to begin your research efforts. I never said this is the ONLY research he needs to do.

 

[Smitty335]

I don't think you understand the value of the experiences of others. IMHO, Hondasxs.com is EXACTLY the place to begin your research efforts. I never said this is the ONLY research he needs to do.

No you need to do some research, start by acting like your going to buy some Elka's and look at all the questions they ask you, maybe then you'll understand. There's no one fits all shock.

 

[Smitty335]

No, he's relying on here say. Go read it, shock / spring set up. You should also, as well as every body buying shocks

Chicken! Do some research!

 

[Remington]

I appreciate your response. I’ll try it without the axels.

As far as shocks go, I’m not wanting to spend 1200 on new shocks but my current shocks suck. I wasn’t looking for the lift but they have them. This seems like a good value option to improve shocks.

At the risk of setting another response about checking the other posts. I see that going with 30s is the safest option with the Superatv forward an arms, I’m a tusk fan and I see that I can get 31x10x14 that will fit. How many guys have tried 31s with these an arms. There were a couple places at Royal Blue this weekend I could have used 31s 30s probably would work too.

I will say this one more time. Well Im sure Ill say it a dozen more times cuz people dont listen 🤣

First, If your going arms, you should go shocks as well, the stockers are crap and your gonna get bigger tires than your stockers and your still not gonna be happy.
Second, dont buy a bracket lift, it chages your geometry of your shocks to close to vertical hince a harsher ride and then your axel angle with binding mixed with eventual failure. Not right away but soon.
Third, with aftermarket shocks you can add “preload” to them to get your 2” lift you get with your bracket lift all while keeping the correct geometry and your stock axels. Win Win right? Sometimes upgraded springs on your new shocks might be needed.
Id did both types, and it wasnt till failure's and wondering why my new shocks rode like $hit? That's why I diched the bracket lift. Notable difference. @Robobrainiac can contest to that.

Your tires and RRB 🤣 I did my first two TO’s dating back 7yrs ago I believe with stock rig one year and 28’s the next and many of the original forum vets did the same at one point or another. Really no problem, you learn how to navigate. Anyway, with SATV arms you can get away with 30’s or 31’s but I would suggest same size wheel and tire all the way around and spacers not only to fix your trac but to give you some non rubbing clearance. I have had 30’s now on my p1 for the last 4 yrs with the very set up I just mentioned, Im happy and it has served me well.You can do what you want, but you asked the question. When you do all this, you can chop your top like us big boys.

I need to copy this to paste it on other threads later 🤣
Here’s a look at the set up with 30’s
Top pic is with a chopped top.

 

[Scoop]

No you need to do some research, start by acting like your going to buy some Elka's and look at all the questions they ask you, maybe then you'll understand. There's no one fits all shock.

Sorry, @Smitty335, but you're not paying attention to the point I'm making.

Who the heck there was a one size fits all shock? Not me. Time to get back on the wagon!

Part of researching includes what others have done and how it's worked out for them, and the only way you find out is by asking them. I never said that is the ONLY research you need to do.

 

[Scoop]

Chicken! Do some research!

Me sharing MY experience with something is not hearsay. I have direct knowledge and experience with what I'm sharing, which is precisely what makes it NOT hearsay.

Me sharing what someone ELSE told them THIER experience was with something because I'm not the one with direct knowledge, experience, or evidence is hearsay.

And why are you quoting and replying to yourself?

 

[Robobrainiac]

I appreciate your response. I’ll try it without the axels.

As far as shocks go, I’m not wanting to spend 1200 on new shocks but my current shocks suck. I wasn’t looking for the lift but they have them. This seems like a good value option to improve shocks.

At the risk of setting another response about checking the other posts. I see that going with 30s is the safest option with the Superatv forward an arms, I’m a tusk fan and I see that I can get 31x10x14 that will fit. How many guys have tried 31s with these an arms. There were a couple places at Royal Blue this weekend I could have used 31s 30s probably would work too.

Tire size is another debate within itself. (larger tires/heavier tires reduce power)

For example:
I have lift on my machine.
First RRB visit was stock shocks and bracket lift. (Ride quality sucked)
Second visit I removed the bracket lift and replaced with aftermarket c-fab arms with lift built in and added fox shocks. (huge improvement in ride quality)

Ron Ayers should have fox shocks around $1500 for the set.
If you could obtain a coupon the rough country vertex could be cheaper but are currently $1300

Both visits I had the SuperATV Intimidators in a 28". I chose the 28" tires to keep the torque of the machine. I chose the lifts to give me the clearance I desired.

I can say here in the very soon future I will have a second set of wheels/tires for at home use. Those tires are Achilles Desert Hawk 30x9.50r15. I will be able to test for myself first hand experience what a 30 feels like.

I can say from first hand experience that the shocks are a hard investment pill to swallow. I still believe with everything in me the cost of them is absolutely ridiculous. Elka 5 could almost purchase half a used RZR with fox shocks already on it.

I was able to get my fox shocks for a super deal. They were takeoffs from another machine. After my first hand experience I can say even at full price the fox shocks would have been a worthy expense. I realized this only after my fox shock purchase.

I would make a broad assumption here that ALL aftermarket shocks are better than factory OE base Honda shocks.

I will also make an assertion that ALL (99%) Honda pioneer aftermarket shocks can add 2" of lift. Do not be caught up in the rough country advertising here. If the shock has pre load adjustment then you can add lift.

In my personal opinion that often changes thru life experience:
I would say aftermarket shocks are going to improve the ride quality over OE base shocks. However much you want to spend is up to you. I would not recommend anything over a fox shock or Elka 2-3. At the end of the day a $5k Elka 5 set is still a 9"ish inch shock stroke that will never equal an 18"ish stroke of a sport machine shock.

 

[Scamih]

Does anyone know of another value shock that is better than Oem Honda shock. I’m looking to spend 700 on completed set

 

[Remington]

Does anyone know of another value shock that is better than Oem Honda shock. I’m looking to spend 700 on completed set

Unfortunately, there isnt really “value shock” but the ones your first posted about. But one things for certain, anything is better than stockers and $700 is a good down psyment or will get u half a set! 🤣

 

[Scamih]

Unfortunately, there isnt really “value shock” but the ones your first posted about. But one things for certain, anything is better than stockers and $700 is a good down psyment or will get u half a set! 🤣

I have 700 to spend, should I spend 700 on front and leave back ones stock? I only notice problems on front. Will this cause other problems?

 

[JACKAL]

And why are you quoting and replying to yourself?

It's a sad tale of early onset dementia.

 

[Remington]

I have 700 to spend, should I spend 700 on front and leave back ones stock? I only notice problems on front. Will this cause other problems?

If thats all you have then yes, get some fronts to start with the the rears. A buddy did that, but it wasnt much longer till he got the rears.

If your going this route, Id get the Fox’s better shock and upgrades you can do to them and you can buy them as fronts or rears separately

 

[Robobrainiac]

I have 700 to spend, should I spend 700 on front and leave back ones stock? I only notice problems on front. Will this cause other problems?

P1000 - Rough Country Shocks

Has anyone bought and ran the Rough Country shocks for the Pioneer 1000’s?

hondasxs.com

If you never will spend more than $700 the M1 cannot be beat. There is no other budget option that I am aware of.

Replacing only the front shocks may improve the ride quality. You will not be able to "lift" the pioneer without front and rear shocks (if you are using preload to achieve lift).

 

[Remington]

Replacing only the front shocks may improve the ride quality. You will not be able to "lift" the pioneer without front and rear shocks.

Great point!
Im assuming $700 is all he has, he didnt specify if its after the arms and tires or just it?
If it was I, and i had $700 after all that, Id get the shocks and arms and do wheels and tires later. Better and easier that way

 

[Remington]

If it was I, and i had $700 after all that, Id get the shocks and arms and do wheels and tires later. Better and easier that way

Adding to what i was saying here…
I would also look into LT/MT tires if he wants it all now. He would save himself over $400 that way and be able to pit towards his shocks

 

[Scamih]

Great point!
Im assuming $700 is all he has, he didnt specify if its after the arms and tires or just it?
If it was I, and i had $700 after all that, Id get the shocks and arms and do wheels and tires later. Better and easier that way

I bought super atv arms, My budget for shocks is 700$. I’ll buy tires later. Thank you guys for your counsel. It’s been very helpful. I think I’m going to buy a full set of the shocks for 700$ It it’s good to be able to bounce stuff off of experienced guys. Btw, my pioneer with 28s got through Royal blue as good as any other machine I was with. Except for this. If you look close you can see my wife standing on the dash to keep her butt out of the mud. That’s on the trail to Town Rock.

 

[Robobrainiac]

The only thing that stops my pioneer is when it bottoms out. Otherwise it feels unstoppable. I see the draw for more lift for more clearance but there is a line between too tall and tipsy.

 

[SuperATV]

I think with the A-arms and shocks you'll be ok with the OEM axles for a while, but you'll need to pay attention to axle angles at full drop and full turn. I'm not familiar with those shocks, but they will likely add axle angle...so keep an eye out in sticky situations and know that more angle will get hotter on higher speed road runs. Your best bet would be to get the Rhino 2.0's in there and keep the OEM's as replacements if needed. You should get away with the stock axles for awhile, but the Rhino 2.0's have much bigger CV's and allow for more angle and less heat. You'll probably want to invest in those at some point.