P1000 Electrical Help

[Johnny_C]

I have my switches & wire, but I need the spade terminals
for the back of the switches. I have looked locally every
where I can think of, but I haven't found any, even at an
electrical specialty house!

Can someone suggest a proper part number?

Without seeing them in person, I am concerned
I will order the wrong part.

Edit to add: Is it safe to assume that this will
work for OTRATTW?

Female Quick Disconnect 10 to 12 gauge


Thanks!

John

 

[Admin]

 

[ofrcboy]

Switches wired.

 

[ofrcboy]

Just mounted mine this afternoon, same Cooper Bussman PDM but used air filter cover to mount it recessed: P1000 - Jackal's P1000-5 | Page 4 | The Honda Side by Side Club!

I mounted the same Cooper Bussman in the bottom of the glove box drilled a 1" hole for the wires to exit fits perfect and still room for what else I carry.

 

[ghost]

I have my switches & wire, but I need the spade terminals
for the back of the switches. I have looked locally every
where I can think of, but I haven't found any, even at an
electrical specialty house!

Can someone suggest a proper part number?

Without seeing them in person, I am concerned
I will order the wrong part.

Edit to add: Is it safe to assume that this will
work for OTRATTW?

Female Quick Disconnect 10 to 12 gauge


Thanks!

John

Those would work if you are using 10 or 12 gauge wire.
I'm using the uninsulated terminal connectors from OTRATTW to go with the terminal housings they sell.
Packard 630 Series Terminal 14 to 16 gauge
But if you are not using the housing, my preference would be the shrink wrap connectors.
http://www.amazon.com/Female-Disconnect-Shrink-Connectors-pieces/dp/B00FHNU6LI?tag=sxsweb24-20
I can get those at my local auto parts store.

Either way just make sure you get the 1/4 inch connectors for the gauge of wire you are using. 1/4 is standard.

 

[tjoreo]

Those would work if you are using 10 or 12 gauge wire.
I'm using the uninsulated terminal connectors from OTRATTW to go with the terminal housings they sell.
Packard 630 Series Terminal 14 to 16 gauge
But if you are not using the housing, my preference would be the shrink wrap connectors.
Amazon.com: Blue 16-14 Gauge Female Quick Disconnect Heat Shrink Connectors 50 pieces.: Industrial & Scientific
I can get those at my local auto parts store.

Either way just make sure you get the 1/4 inch connectors for the gauge of wire you are using. 1/4 is standard.

@ghost I was looking at using the same terminals with the housings for easy removal if I need to. The trouble I am finding is finding the right crimping tool. We have various crimpers at work, but I don't think any of them are the right ones. I have found some on the web but they run about $100, so before I order one, I want to make sure it is the right crimper. Just curious if you could let me know what you are using. Thanks

 

[ghost]

@ghost I was looking at using the same terminals with the housings for easy removal if I need to. The trouble I am finding is finding the right crimping tool. We have various crimpers at work, but I don't think any of them are the right ones. I have found some on the web but they run about $100, so before I order one, I want to make sure it is the right crimper. Just curious if you could let me know what you are using. Thanks

I'm not an expert on crimping - they are a lot of very specialized tool out there. If I had to do hundreds I might buy a fancy single-press-off-the-button crimper.
This is the old friend I use...

I start the crimp sideways to get it rolling then load the terminal with the flat side on the "bump" of the crimper

Once it is crimped I don't like to mess around trying to make a better connection - i usually make it worse.
.
Add some heat shrink

I suggest single wall heat shrink for this - the double wall is quite thick


Buy extra terminals to practice before you start your project.

 

[ghost]

FYI - I love my new stripper. Very well made.
It does 8,10,12,14,18 and 22 guage. No 16 - but thats ok.

 

[tjoreo]

FYI - I love my new stripper. Very well made.
It does 8,10,12,14,18 and 22 guage. No 16 - but thats ok.
View attachment 9424 View attachment 9425

Thank you very much @ghost I liked the idea of the terminal housings and the ends, but didn't like the idea of paying that much for the crimpers. It looks like you old friend makes professional connections. Thanks again for your time.

 

[PioneerPete]

FYI - I love my new stripper. Very well made.
It does 8,10,12,14,18 and 22 guage. No 16 - but thats ok.
View attachment 9424 View attachment 9425

I'm jealous... how can I get a pair of those?

 

[ghost]

I'm jealous... how can I get a pair of those?

Made in Canada, Eh. I forgot about that.
I guess you'll have to come up here or start importing more from here instead of China.

 

[PioneerPete]

Made in Canada, Eh. I forgot about that.
I guess you'll have to come up here or start importing more from here instead of China.

Kinda hard when China is all too eager to sell to me and can't even get JET to send me a catalogue...lol. Maybe, if only I knew someone in Canada...

 

[HondaTech]

Snap-on and Mac tools have the same type of strippers available, I love mine. Only use the old pull on type if I cant get these into the area or the wire is too short to get ahold of.

 

[Johnny_C]

I found them at Lowes, yesterday.

I always wanted a set of those,
so I bought them. $25.

Sweet!

John

I'm jealous... how can I get a pair of those?

 

[Johnny_C]

Well, I finished wiring tonight, all except
for the hot wire for my bed light. I flipped
the aux battery switch & I could hear the
isolator cycling pretty fast, like a starter
solenoid with a weak battery. I checked
both batteries and they were both at 12.6
volts. I guess trouble shooting starts tomorrow
night! Yea!

Later!

John

 

[Johnny_C]

Ok. I got my isolator issue corrected. (Rooky mistake)

The next issue is I am not getting any of my relays
to actuate. I have the 6 ga wire going through my
fuse link, then to the pos side of my aux battery
& I have that ground wire grounded. My switch
power output wires are working.

Any suggestions on what to look for?

John

 

[Johnny_C]

My buddy who does heating &
air came over & we have it
worked out. I needed another
hot on my switch outputs to
control the relays & I apparently
lost a ground.

It's easy if you know what you're
doing!

I paid him back by running his log
splitter for an hour!

John

 

[jasontjames]

I have ordered parts and I am going to attempt to start on the electrical install this weekend. I am the epitome of a novice when it comes to electrical so you guys should anticipate some serious rookie questions being posted in the near future. Here is what I have ordered:

30" STV 180W LED light bar
(2) STV 4" 18W LED Pods
Switch panel from mystic
UB12260 Battery
True UTV dual battery kit
STV rocker switches (1 for light bar, 1 for pods, 1 for stereo (to be added later), 1 dual usb)

I have not ordered the PDM yet. I am going to do the dual battery install first. I have not decided what direction to go on the PDM. Debating either the Bussmann universal PDM or the PDM60. Any recommendations for a complete novice. I am looking for something as close to idiot proof as possible. My switch plate will have a capacity of 6 switches. Right now I am only going to have 4 in place but will likely add the other two in the near future.

Also, I have the Honda branded Warn winch already installed. I am planning to switch it over the aux battery. Any considerations I need to make for that?

For the dual battery setup.....What type of fuses are you guys using on the pos cables? Is 80A big enough?

JJ

 

[CumminsPusher]

I have the bussman and do like it. It basically gives you five high power and 5 lower power most everything I have runs through this. Your winch should be hooked up to the auxiliary battery since you usually use deep cycle because they take the hit better and no need to run through the relay box. A battery isolator in between the two and I've just recently started using a circuit breaker which are around 15 bucks that insures two things extra protection and the ability to shut off all accessories for adding or maintaining during the winter or even a problem you can hit one button to kill everything. I wouldn't worry about a fuse on the positive cable with a breaker it'll do the same thing just run everything from that you'll be fine. 80a is is 960 (80amp x 12volt = 960watts is the formula) watts should absolutely be fine. Most you can run at once is around 700watt with stock stator.

 

[Nightcrawler]

View attachment 9399 Switches wired.

What are these terminals you are using to jump the grounds?

 

[jasontjames]

I have a question about using the universal waterproof fuse/relay box. For simplicities sake, I am going to just wire all of my light bars and pod lights through the relays. My question is, can I use the fused non-relay wires to provide power to my switches? I was thinking about using one of the 15amp fused circuits and jumpering it across all the switches. Then tapping the headlight wire to power the led backlights. Do any of you see a problem with this?