Does anyone on here do hotshot trucking?

[WagginTail]

If someone could help me understand this. Is the trucks total weight supposed to be less than 9000 lbs or front and rear axle added together for a total of 11210 lbs?

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GVWR is Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. Your truck can't weigh more than 9000 pounds if you put it on a scale. This includes anything in the truck plus the tongue weight of your trailer. Also when you go to weigh your truck and trailer on a scale then your rear axle weight cannot be more than 6,010 pounds. The scales at the truck stops weigh each axle. Front, rear and trailer axles.

 

[Admin]

 

[WagginTail]

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

Exactly. So why would you add the axle weights together?

 

[Mopower58]

Exactly. So why would you add the axle weights together?

It specifically says front axle GAWR and rear axle GAWR.

 

[WagginTail]

It specifically says front axle GAWR and rear axle GAWR.

So why do they even put the GVWR on there then? Why wouldn't the GVWR say 11,210 pounds?

 

[Mopower58]

So why do they even put the GVWR on there then? Why wouldn't the GVWR say 11,210 pounds?

I could very easily be wrong on that, all I know is that in 3 years the DOT never checked that and that the amount of weight displayed on the tag was the final say. That was over 20 years ago so things might have changed. I also had a loose leaf log book and driving time was longer than now.

 

[Robobrainiac]

So my thought process is this. It has been awhile since I weighed the truck but I think with me in it and full tank of fuel I was 7100 lbs. So let's say 7500 lbs is what I may weigh after straps, tarps, supplies, ect... So with a 10% pin weight in mind I should stay at a max trailer weight of 15000 lbs correct? With that being said technically I cannot exceed 26000 lbs then. So with my current truck I should be a non CDL driver then?

 

[Vikes79]

I used to do some hot shot work…key word is used too…

ive also been on the other side helping a small fabricator get their own van truck setup.

Bottom line is that it’s a cutthroat business and full of risk. You have to carry a bunch of insurance. You will be on the hook for your deliveries, even if your well maintained truck has its bits laying on highway. Regulations are not pulling back either.

my advice is to layout a business plan for a couple different options including wrenching in your own independent business.

make a doomsday plan for each case ( if truck is wrecked then what)

have a plan to not loose your house by setting up the correct business type etc.

Personally I’d say you’re forcing it vs leveraging your current invested skills. There’s lots of ways to be independent mechanic that doesn’t involve dealing with average knuckle draggers.

 

[Vikes79]

So my thought process is this. It has been awhile since I weighed the truck but I think with me in it and full tank of fuel I was 7100 lbs. So let's say 7500 lbs is what I may weigh after straps, tarps, supplies, ect... So with a 10% pin weight in mind I should stay at a max trailer weight of 15000 lbs correct? With that being said technically I cannot exceed 26000 lbs then. So with my current truck I should be a non CDL driver then?

You will still need health card and would be limited to a radius of 100 miles if I remember correctly ( been a few years).

 

[Plumber32]

I could talk for hours how much I despise working on cars now. I have worked for 14 years as a mechanic now and almost 8 of those are at the dealership I am currently at. I appreciate my dealership but I hate GM and aftermarket warranty companies. I am tired of getting my hours taken from me and I'm tired of others telling me how to do my job.
My wife and I are looking forward to being able to be home with each other more. I work 730 to 530 Monday thru Friday. My wife works approximately 9am to 3pm Tuesday thru Thursday and we currently work together approximately 4 hours including drive time on Sunday. If I can work full time with my wife our income will remain the same and we will increase our home time extensively.

Go for it, start with what ya got and go from there. If you like it and are making good $ put it all back in the business if you can get by with the cleaning. In 5 years you'll be doing great ill bet. I would not go into debt right away.

Being self employed is the best once you get established. A ton of tears and fears will be had. Just don't quit.

 

[WagginTail]

I could very easily be wrong on that, all I know is that in 3 years the DOT never checked that and that the amount of weight displayed on the tag was the final say. That was over 20 years ago so things might have changed. I also had a loose leaf log book and driving time was longer than now.

Yea the DOT is gonna go by the GVWR. I've been stopped twice. Once last year and I think the first time was in 2019.

 

[WagginTail]

You will still need health card and would be limited to a radius of 100 miles if I remember correctly ( been a few years).

Yea. I think it changed to 150 miles now.

 

[Smitty335]

So my thought process is this. It has been awhile since I weighed the truck but I think with me in it and full tank of fuel I was 7100 lbs. So let's say 7500 lbs is what I may weigh after straps, tarps, supplies, ect... So with a 10% pin weight in mind I should stay at a max trailer weight of 15000 lbs correct? With that being said technically I cannot exceed 26000 lbs then. So with my current truck I should be a non CDL driver then?

@JACKAL you have any input for this thread?

 

[Robobrainiac]

If I am understanding correctly while looking into the mileage thing it seems like 100 air miles applies to CDL drivers and 150 air miles applies to non CDL drivers. The exception seems to allow you to basically ignore all rules. You can just drive. The mileage does not seem to be a maximum distance from my base location. If you are outside of that air mile range then you need all of your standard regulations like logbook, breaks, hour count, ect..

 

[HondaRed16]

You are setting yourself up for a very painful & very expensive education (meaning fines). If you haul for a fee, a CDL is required, plus all of the authorities, placards, etc. If you haul one load, one time past the minimum mileage, you have to have the electronic logger, at that point you don’t get to choose when you log & when you don’t. The mileage starts from the base location you register your rig, not from where you pickup the load. FWIW, there’s another element to all of this, once you have a CDL, you’re restricted to a blood alcohol of .04, always, (on duty working or not), if you get ticketed the points for violations are higher, plus with a CDL you can’t negotiate those violations to a lesser charge.

There is so much to consider here, so I repeat “go talk to the DOT”.
I’m not trying to be a party pooper, as this can be very fun & very rewarding, but it does come with restrictions.

 

[Robobrainiac]

Has anyone installed a 5th wheel hitch with a gooseneck ball in the bed? Both of my trucks currently have a gooseneck ball. Can I install rails or do I need to removed the ball?

 

[Mopower58]

Has anyone installed a 5th wheel hitch with a gooseneck ball in the bed? Both of my trucks currently have a gooseneck ball. Can I install rails or do I need to removed the ball?

Having had both the ball is ok for the weight you'll have. A fifth wheel is more secure and keeps the trailer from flexing side to side as much. With a single rear wheel truck I would keep the ball. Plus it would keep the initial costs down.

 

[Mopower58]

Another thing they will check on your trailer is the break away connection and battery. They will unplug the breakaway plug and see if the trailer brakes activate. They will also check the condition of the battery. The DOT will do different type stops. Sometimes it's only log books and paperwork. Other times it's a full blown inspection including lights, oil leaks, trailer brakes, tires, log book, paper work, etc. When I was doing it a full inspection would earn you a decal and possibly less chance of inspections for a year. Some seem to target Hot Shot rigs because of their perceived short comings. I have been waved in by the scalemaster a couple of times to check log book and paperwork. I had magnetic signs on each side with company name and DOT number. That way they could be removed when using the truck for personal use.

 

[HondaRed16]

Has anyone installed a 5th wheel hitch with a gooseneck ball in the bed? Both of my trucks currently have a gooseneck ball. Can I install rails or do I need to removed the ball?

I don't know if this allowed but there are couple:

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-and-Fifth-Wheel-Adapters/Demco/DM8550046.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20%7C%20Shop%20-%20Gooseneck%20and%20Fifth%20Wheel%20Adapters&adgroupid=92297486800&campaignid=181934297&creative=411634353570&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9030068&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp8eVv_W1_AIVOymtBh10pwlxEAQYASABEgKBQfD_BwE

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-and-Fifth-Wheel-Adapters/B-and-W/BWRVK3500.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20%7C%20Shop%20-%20Gooseneck%20and%20Fifth%20Wheel%20Adapters&adgroupid=92297485640&campaignid=181934297&creative=411634353567&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9030068&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp8eVv_W1_AIVOymtBh10pwlxEAQYAyABEgKJcfD_BwE

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-and-Fifth-Wheel-Adapters/Convert-A-Ball/CAB-C5G.html

 

[Smittyp]

I use this with the rails
CURT 16055 Bent Plate 5th Wheel to Gooseneck Adapter Hitch, Fits Industry-Standard Rails, 25,000 lbs, 2-5/16-Inch Ball https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EOWRUW?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Smittyp]

If you’re gonna be moving the fifth wheel hitch in and out of the truck by yourself, I suggest getting one like this makes it a lot easier on your back
B&W Trailer Hitches 25K Companion Fifth Wheel Hitch - Compatible with 2020-2023 Chevrolet/GM Puck System - RVK3715 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBX49DK?tag=sxsweb24-20