Remington
Fife! POIDH Enforcement Officer
Lifetime Member
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Oh indeed! We have a running list for newbies starting a build! 😂Let us know how much more you want to spend I'm sure we can assist 😂
Oh indeed! We have a running list for newbies starting a build! 😂Let us know how much more you want to spend I'm sure we can assist 😂
It's the least we can do....... can't take it with you!!!!Oh indeed! We have a running list for newbies starting a build! 😂
Cant hide money!It's the least we can do....... can't take it with you!!!!
Oh hell man! Now hes gonna go run in a fox hole and never come out ! 😂47mm is probably getting closer to 1+6 or 6+1 depending on the direction as they probably just round up since it's greater than 5". I'm sure that at some point a higher positive offset (30mm) is considered 5+2 vs 4+3. Using a 1" scale to describe UTV offset is a pretty coarse scale. Truck and car wheel offsets are all typically measured in mm.
My mistake @Scoop I misread the diagrams posted by @Wisco-TangoI'm no expert but.....47mm??
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And just my 2 cents.....
Unless you're the type to rock crawl or do aggressive riding with real low PSI I don't see the need for a true bead lock really 🤷♂️ if you really like your wheel choice I wouldn't go crazy over a different choice just cause it's a bead lock wheel. Also just a FIY....not all tires work well with bead lock wheels.....just something to consider as well when purchasing
All this is a big close enough, as the 7" is probably an approximation too.I was just going off the chart that was posted.....47mm ~ 5+2 offset.
I'm sure there's some wiggle room in there being that every (7" wide) wheel sold isn't really an exact 7" wide....or any other size for that matter. So the "5+2" offset is more of an approximate guid 🤷♂️
The good ol'......close enough!!! method
Nope. The point I was making is that +10mm is almost a perfect 4+3. vs the 5+2 that the RB3 chart calls them.My mistake @Scoop I misread the diagrams posted by @Wisco-Tango
This should be a little more clear, yes.....you want the 10mm off set, that's close to a 5+2.......🤔 I think?? 😂
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Oh gotcha.... I'm a slow learner 😂All this is a big close enough, as the 7" is probably an approximation too.
Nope. The point I was making is that +10mm is almost a perfect 4+3. vs the 5+2 that the RB3 chart calls them.
I think the real question is what size and offset are the OEM wheels. That would make this whole offset conversation a lot easier to figure out.
We do. It’s the search bar!!!Oh indeed! We have a running list for newbies starting a build! 😂
I have the one sided bead locks, so if I busted a tire I can break it down trail side and stick a tube in the tire. I don't carry a spare.I would say that all really depends on terrain and riding habits. I've ran my tires (29") as low as 7 or 8 PSI riding in TN.....(RRB, TACKETT, ETC) and haven't had any issues with a tire popping off the bead🤞🙏. I usually run around 10 to 12 PSI but I've noticed them down in the 7 and 8 range from time to time.......my buddy runs bead locks (mainly just for the looks 🙄) and we ride pretty much all the same stuff without issues. Like I said, if YOU ride trails where you see the advantage and need for a bead lock then definitely get them, or if you just really like the looks and or just want to be able to say "yeah, them are are bead locks" 😂......if not, then 99% sure you'll be fine with either of your top 2 picks
Again, just my 2 worn down cents....
When I bought my wheels from Race Line, they sent me 6+1 for the front and 5+2 for the rear and they are the same stock width as OEM front and rear.All this is a big close enough, as the 7" is probably an approximation too.
Nope. The point I was making is that +10mm is almost a perfect 4+3. vs the 5+2 that the RB3 chart calls them.
I think the real question is what size and offset are the OEM wheels. That would make this whole offset conversation a lot easier to figure out.
Based on my build thread, I'd say I'm WELL beyond that $$$$ 😆Oh indeed! We have a running list for newbies starting a build! 😂
This makes sense assuming the track is even front to rear from the factory. Having to add a 1" spacer to the rear if using a 5+2 setup all around would keep the same front to rear track. It would just widden the overall machine by 2".When I bought my wheels from Race Line, they sent me 6+1 for the front and 5+2 for the rear and they are the same stock width as OEM front and rear.
You got it!This makes sense assuming the track is even front to rear from the factory. Having to add a 1" spacer to the rear if using a 5+2 setup all around would keep the same front to rear track. It would just widden the overall machine by 2".
Ow my, the info is for a P1?This makes sense assuming the track is even front to rear from the factory. Having to add a 1" spacer to the rear if using a 5+2 setup all around would keep the same front to rear track. It would just widden the overall machine by 2".
Thanks for the clarity @Smitty335. I am doing all this from a point of ignorance of the P1K, as my ownership status says looking, but in reality is should say impatiently waiting...LOL.You got it!