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Ahh ok thank you for the adviceView attachment 416991
Some of that bluing is normal from inductive heat treating the crank pin area & rod. This is from my P5 when I did the 520 cyl mod.
Ahh ok thank you for the adviceView attachment 416991
Some of that bluing is normal from inductive heat treating the crank pin area & rod. This is from my P5 when I did the 520 cyl mod.
Wow, that airbox is hit!Engine is out. Started to remove and bag and tag inspect. I’m stuck now on the front with removing the cluch basket waiting for my 35x1 puller, trying to utilize the pullers I have but not working out. Here’s some pics from behind front cover, closest machine shop is 2.5 hours away. Think I’ll take the crank/rod to them to measure wear. Searching bottom end rebuild kits bearings . Top end jug and slug. Aftermarket or stock what’s your 2 cents?
View attachment 417158 View attachment 417159 View attachment 417160
Yea it’s pretty dirty for sure, thick!.Wow, that airbox is hit!
Crank bearings for certain but if it were mine I'd be replacing all bearingsYea for sure I was going g to check out Mots machining all the do is over bores and piston kits for powersports in my closest major city 2.5 hours away. Edmonton Alberta need an engine! Where’s the hook ups
I have wrote down the following so far to price out
Conrod cost pressing,Piston kit, over bore, front case O-rings, rear case O-rings, output shaft seals. Timing chain oil pump, head cylinder, tappet cover gaskets. New air filter, oil filter home made snorkel kit. The list is growing
If on the fence about the bearings. Trying to consider what drivers I need pullers. Or washout the cases with the bearings in Varsol and then dry then wet with engine oil and turn it with my finger. I donno if this is the best for a customers machine I want a long lasting good job but I donno my local Honda shop says they don’t change em out. Clean oil and feel donnoCrank bearings for certain but if it were mine I'd be replacing all bearings
If you source a USA engine, one of us might be able to get it to the border?Im in canada so if you only knew how gnarly the difference and shipping I must look in Canada
Phuck dat.......for that price it's a good candidate to drop a T1K engine in itI’m sure it’s possible or this place sweet grass storage it the best way to go but.
I have to compare what my job vs what’s complete engine is shipped to my door, that 5k usd is 6700 plus shipping brokerage and then tax duty you name it it’ll be 8k Canadian
I’m in Canada too and I rebuilt a P1K. I ended up ordering all parts from Ron Ayers in US and after shipping and duty it was still cheaper. Might be worth a look. Create an account then you will get a lower price on a lot. Oem parts. Good luck.Im in canada so if you only knew how gnarly the difference and shipping I must look in Canada
Ron Ayers or Partzilla? Cheaper than your local dealer? Was for me.380 usd $90 shipping for the stuff I listed/\without account. Now $600 Canadian in the final of the billing, somewhere they add another $30 them coyotes.
290$Can con rod, $125 to instal, $180 piston kit. $100 bore @ machine shop. Add another $100 shipping or more
$80 abs 2” pipe, 90’s, couplers for snorkle kit. So this hopefully never happens again. Bring fresher air in then by the tire
Now I add 20% fork out my money,time on the phone, delivery picking up
Parts etc
Maby 12hr job @50/hr. Washed it, did valve lash. (I’ll prolly have more but trying to be fair I have no idea book time. My first honda 500.
$2350. Trying to estimate this out best I can for the guy
thats Roy I didn’t check with llocalRon Ayers or Partzilla? Cheaper than your local dealer? Was for me.