P1000 100 mile service update

[smitty9805]

I'm not saying they won't honor the warranty. It just seemed to me that everything that went wrong with the Popo I had wasn't covered. And the warranty had a $100.00 deductible

 

[Admin]

 

[Crow_Hunter]

I'm not saying they won't honor the warranty. It just seemed to me that everything that went wrong with the Popo I had wasn't covered. And the warranty had a $100.00 deductible

This one is no deductible and supposedly, according to the dealer and the paperwork, they will cover anything that is a manufacturer's defective part as long as I have the paperwork to prove that the routine maintenance has been completed.

That is, of course, leaving out any "wear items" which will probably include anything that goes wrong....

However, it was specifically sold to me as relating to the Honda potential clutch failure problem because they had 4 units that needed it done and the cost was $3,800 each.

We will see.

 

[smitty9805]

Do you have to purchase the Honda warranty through a dealer?

 

[HondaTech]

The only problem with any other warranty beside Honda is most of the companies behind them are jokes. All of Polaris extended warranties are outside companies, and they wont fix a thing. trust me HPP from Honda is no joke. I just replaced a bubbled painted piece on a 2010 Goldwing with over 60,000 miles on it and HPP covered it. Otherwise the customer would've been out over $700 to fix this problem. Plus I dont know if I'd want the jokers who worked on your P1K doing any warranty work to begin with. Just my two cents.

Plus there is no way in hell a clutch problem is going to cost $3800, you could rebuild this entire engine for that twice over. These guys having no f***ing clue about a thing. Without labor the clutch parts are around $1000, flat rate for that job is 2.1 hours (which isn't that bad really) so for my shop its around $1200.

 

[Crow_Hunter]

Do you have to purchase the Honda warranty through a dealer?

That I am not sure of 100% but I think you do.

I do know that you have until your factory runs out to buy it.

 

[Crow_Hunter]

The only problem with any other warranty beside Honda is most of the companies behind them are jokes. All of Polaris extended warranties are outside companies, and they wont fix a thing. trust me HPP from Honda is no joke. I just replaced a bubbled painted piece on a 2010 Goldwing with over 60,000 miles on it and HPP covered it. Otherwise the customer would've been out over $700 to fix this problem. Plus I dont know if I'd want the jokers who worked on your P1K doing any warranty work to begin with. Just my two cents.

If I had read about this earlier instead of being the one experiencing it, I would have gone with the Honda plan.

Hopefully others will learn from my experiences in more than one way.

 

[CumminsPusher]

The only problem with any other warranty beside Honda is most of the companies behind them are jokes. All of Polaris extended warranties are outside companies, and they wont fix a thing. trust me HPP from Honda is no joke. I just replaced a bubbled painted piece on a 2010 Goldwing with over 60,000 miles on it and HPP covered it. Otherwise the customer would've been out over $700 to fix this problem. Plus I dont know if I'd want the jokers who worked on your P1K doing any warranty work to begin with. Just my two cents.

Plus there is no way in hell a clutch problem is going to cost $3800, I've got the 12k piece of paper to show that. Granted mine was a lot of replacing and unless you're talking a very simple rebuild which in that case we wouldn't be talking that for years. If you're looking at a rebuild this soon it's major. you could rebuild this entire engine for that twice over. These guys having no f***ing clue about a thing. Without labor the clutch parts are around $1000, flat rate for that job is 2.1 hours (which isn't that bad really) so for my shop its around $1200.

You can not through a shop rebuild two of these motors for 3800 been there! Have a 12k receipt for that. Unless you're talking a simple rebuild but there aren't near enough miles for that and most people will be out of warranty long before this needs rebuilt. It would take something major to need motor work to this while still in warranty Something that will cost far more then rings bearings. What my dealer said was that Honda tends to question a bit and takes awhile sometimes. I had talked to several people in the shop including my very trusted parts manager and the all said they have better luck with Zurich then with Honda. Most of the time they will start working on the machine before they claim is even okayed because they turn so few down. Now maybe my dealer doesn't have the status with Honda that larger tier Honda dealerships have but I did trust in most of what they said.

 

[smitty9805]

That I am not sure of 100% but I think you do.

I do know that you have until your factory runs out to buy it.

On a positive note, so far I have had pretty good luck with the Honda. Every now and then it will pop really loud underneath the machine when it is trying to disengage 4wd. Or so I have been told that is what it is doing. But wouldn't trade a picture of it for another popo lol

 

[Crow_Hunter]

Update:

Well, I was right on what I remembered.

This is what they gave me as "fixed". Note that it is no where near the marks in the case and there is definitely no 6mm gap at the back. By the way, that was in turf mode.... That isn't supposed to look like that in turf mode, it is supposed to look like that in 2WD locked!

Looks to me like he just kept tightening until he ran out of room and lied and said it was fixed and no one checked him...

That was my ratchet though. (Thought I took that off before I took the picture, oops.) I was trying to see if I could fit my ratchet in there to back the damn adjustment off, I couldn't by the way. I had to use an open end wrench and my fingers to try and hold it while I took my wrench off and restarted it because there wasn't enough room for the wrench to move. That residual WD-40 "lube" was really "helpful" for making it easier to keep the nut from turning with my fingers s.

I basically had to unscrew everything to nearly zero and start back over from scratch and I can now put it into the correct setting with just my fingers. I hope that is normal and not something else they f'd up.

I will definitely be calling them and giving them a piece of my mind. I hate to get someone in trouble but damn, if you don't understand something don't f*** up someone's stuff being stupid. Ask for some damn help. Hell, I would have rather been back there helping than sitting up front for 2 hours looking at the same machines and videos waiting for them to tell me to go home and then waste a 2nd trip up there for them to not even do that right...

I am also now concerned that if the knucklehead who did this couldn't follow the simple instructions in the manual, what the hell did he do to my differential when he supposedly changed out the fluid!?!? Did he just drain it and not put any back in or maybe use WD-40?

I guess I need to check that now too.

Are the instructions on how to do that in the glove box manual? I looked but I didn't see it, but maybe I overlooked it in my aggravation. I know how to do it on a truck but I didn't see a way to do it on this diff unless it is in the front of the casing.

 

[500]

Update:View attachment 19222

Well, I was right on what I remembered.

This is what they gave me as "fixed". Note that it is no where near the marks in the case and there is definitely no 6mm gap at the back. By the way, that was in turf mode.... That isn't supposed to look like that in turf mode, it is supposed to look like that in 2WD locked!

Looks to me like he just kept tightening until he ran out of room and lied and said it was fixed and no one checked him...

That was my ratchet though. (Thought I took that off before I took the picture, oops.) I was trying to see if I could fit my ratchet in there to back the damn adjustment off, I couldn't by the way. I had to use an open end wrench and my fingers to try and hold it while I took my wrench off and restarted it because there wasn't enough room for the wrench to move. That residual WD-40 "lube" was really "helpful" for making it easier to keep the nut from turning with my fingers s.

I basically had to unscrew everything to nearly zero and start back over from scratch and I can now put it into the correct setting with just my fingers. I hope that is normal and not something else they f'd up.

I will definitely be calling them and giving them a piece of my mind. I hate to get someone in trouble but damn, if you don't understand something don't f*** up someone's stuff being stupid. Ask for some damn help. Hell, I would have rather been back there helping than sitting up front for 2 hours looking at the same machines and videos waiting for them to tell me to go home and then waste a 2nd trip up there for them to not even do that right...

I am also now concerned that if the knucklehead who did this couldn't follow the simple instructions in the manual, what the hell did he do to my differential when he supposedly changed out the fluid!?!? Did he just drain it and not put any back in or maybe use WD-40?

I guess I need to check that now too.

Are the instructions on how to do that in the glove box manual? I looked but I didn't see it, but maybe I overlooked it in my aggravation. I know how to do it on a truck but I didn't see a way to do it on this diff unless it is in the front of the casing.

Wow... Wow... Wow...
Chew their ass out. They need to be informed so others don't get screwed and have to pay for it. That is completely wrong. Geez....... What an IDIOT. I would be worried to death about the fact he tinkered with the adjustments/cables in the rear diff. Man, of all the things you were concerned with it should not be your damn dealer's mechanic.

 

[500]

Wouldn't let that Jack wagon touch a 5hp go kart engine. Hell, I wouldn't even let him lube the chain.

 

[Crow_Hunter]

Wow... Wow... Wow...
Chew their ass out. They need to be informed so others don't get screwed and have to pay for it. That is completely wrong. Geez....... What an IDIOT. I would be worried to death about the fact he tinkered with the adjustments/cables in the rear diff. Man, of all the things you were concerned with it should not be your damn dealer's mechanic.

I am hoping since he lied about it working he lied about doing that too. I couldn't see any "box" that he claimed was on the differential that was wrong from the factory that he had to "adjust".

Maybe he adjusted the torque converter instead....

After I put it back to spec it seems to shift fine. It goes into 4WD instantly and diff-lock with a little bit of movement. It goes in and out of turf mode quickly with a little bit of movement. It is better than it was before.

I just wish I had listened to you guys and just fixed it myself to start with.

 

[500]

Mine done correctly in 2WD and Park. Yours was so far out it isn't even comprehensible.

 

[CumminsPusher]

I am hoping since he lied about it working he lied about doing that too. I couldn't see any "box" that he claimed was on the differential that was wrong from the factory that he had to "adjust".

Maybe he adjusted the torque converter instead....

After I put it back to spec it seems to shift fine. It goes into 4WD instantly and diff-lock with a little bit of movement. It goes in and out of turf mode quickly with a little bit of movement. It is better than it was before.

I just wish I had listened to you guys and just fixed it myself to start with.

Oh my god crow! 500 is right. You have a legitimate b****!

 

[Nightcrawler]

Update:View attachment 19222

Well, I was right on what I remembered.

This is what they gave me as "fixed". Note that it is no where near the marks in the case and there is definitely no 6mm gap at the back. By the way, that was in turf mode.... That isn't supposed to look like that in turf mode, it is supposed to look like that in 2WD locked!

Looks to me like he just kept tightening until he ran out of room and lied and said it was fixed and no one checked him...

That was my ratchet though. (Thought I took that off before I took the picture, oops.) I was trying to see if I could fit my ratchet in there to back the damn adjustment off, I couldn't by the way. I had to use an open end wrench and my fingers to try and hold it while I took my wrench off and restarted it because there wasn't enough room for the wrench to move. That residual WD-40 "lube" was really "helpful" for making it easier to keep the nut from turning with my fingers s.

I basically had to unscrew everything to nearly zero and start back over from scratch and I can now put it into the correct setting with just my fingers. I hope that is normal and not something else they f'd up.

I will definitely be calling them and giving them a piece of my mind. I hate to get someone in trouble but damn, if you don't understand something don't f*** up someone's stuff being stupid. Ask for some damn help. Hell, I would have rather been back there helping than sitting up front for 2 hours looking at the same machines and videos waiting for them to tell me to go home and then waste a 2nd trip up there for them to not even do that right...

I am also now concerned that if the knucklehead who did this couldn't follow the simple instructions in the manual, what the hell did he do to my differential when he supposedly changed out the fluid!?!? Did he just drain it and not put any back in or maybe use WD-40?

I guess I need to check that now too.

Are the instructions on how to do that in the glove box manual? I looked but I didn't see it, but maybe I overlooked it in my aggravation. I know how to do it on a truck but I didn't see a way to do it on this diff unless it is in the front of the casing.

Yikes, I thought my dealer was bad! Yes, you should be able to turn the adjusters by hand.

 

[Crow_Hunter]

Well one more update.

The bonehead that did my 100 mile service didn't bother to clean up any of the oil off of the skid plate...

I noticed there was a spot under the machine on my garage floor, I figured it was the WD40 that I splashed out of the mode shifter box, so I wiped it up and went about my business. Then I saw ANOTHER spot and I became concerned. So I crawled underneath it and low and behold there was oil EVERYWHERE. Including DRIPPING OFF the drain plugs.

Well, that made me wonder if the plugs were leaking so I wiped everything off really good and took the machine back out and drove it around and brought it back and looked under it again, no fresh oil. So I made 100% sure that everything was wiped off again and checked it 24 hours later including wiping it with a clean paper towel to check for any type of moisture and I didn't see anything but I am going to keep an extra close eye on it and I am going to check my oil fill for tightness tomorrow.

Pitiful that I paid money to have all this done and I am going back through it all and checking it/fixing what was done. I would have been better off taking that money and putting it towards some ramps and just did it myself at home. I still wouldn't have had to crawl around on the ground and in the heat anymore than I have had to so far...

 

[CumminsPusher]

I don't but I think it is a good idea to bring it in for at least the first service so the record is there. By the sounds of it though you may have had better luck at a Walmart service center. I can't believe they did so poor a job


Sent from iPhone

 

[Crow_Hunter]

I don't but I think it is a good idea to bring it in for at least the first service so the record is there. By the sounds of it though you may have had better luck at a Walmart service center. I can't believe they did so poor a job


Sent from iPhone

Tell me about it.

I figured I would let them do it because I have my warranty through a company they suggested and I figured it would be similar to the couple of times that I had my Rincon and Recon serviced there. They were excellent. Something has changed since then apparently though.

I figured they would have at least have cleaned the oil up a little bit to keep from dripping it all over their floors. As much as there was in there it was bound to have been dripping everywhere and they have to drive them units through the foot traffic area to get them to the parking lot. Not only is it messy and poor customer service but I figured it would be a safety issue for the techs. I know I would be really pissed if I fell and busted my ass because some jackleg couldn't be bother to wipe a shop rag around a couple of placed to sop up some oil.

I know when I worked at a garage changing oil back in college we didn't leave crap like that on customer vehicles. I used to dread seeing Z71 pickups come in because they would get oil all over the skid plates and we would have to clean it up.

 

[CumminsPusher]

That's poor service.


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