Pretty sure I saw you yesterday @AMink ...east of the Johnson Lane staging area.
It was an absolutely gorgeous day!
It was an absolutely gorgeous day!
AMink
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Nope, not me. We're out off 50 between Desatoyas and Clan Alpine ranges.
lowranger
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We have chest nuts that we should go gather, but still don't know how to dry them right. Have tried once and didn't work out.
906UP
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I think you're supposed to roast them on an open fire
lowranger
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AMink
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Spending some time away from the crazies over New Years.
Without extended fenders
With extended fenders
Without extended fenders
With extended fenders
highpocket74
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Mudbusters rears were immediately installed on my Talon when new. I had the same fenders on my RZR S1000, which like the Talon, slung mud on my collar! I did not like that.
highpocket74
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Seems pitiful but I've had my 23 X4 LV since mid-July and FINALLY made the time to put my own parts on it! Intake pre-filter kit is installed.
ToddACimer
Pioneer 1005-2
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Ordered your parts last week, waiting for them to get here.
Fatsquatch
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highpocket74
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CID
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Waaaaaay back in October, toward the end of the season (even in Utah), I did a scheduled campsite oil change. During that, I found this torn boot. I'm not sure why it didn't spit grease all over that corner of the Talon to let me know that I had a problem, but it didn't. 
Although I had a complete spare axle, I realized that I didn't have enough 'other stuff' to replace it in camp ... so I packed up and headed home. I'd have tried harder but had ridden ~1300 miles on this trip and felt ok calling the season over.
This camp -
This oil change -
This torn boot -
This is what was left of the CV after I cut the boot off. It was worse before I cycled it through its range of motion and the grease covered the rust, but it was very stiff and binding up pretty bad -
While I was getting ready to replace the axle, I discovered that the front bushing on the upper trailing link had left the building (the one right behind the driver's butt). Now I knew what that damn KLUNK in the rear end was. So my new task, on top of the axle assembly replacement, was also replacing that upper trailing link (no, you can't just buy the damn bushing).
This (dirty) red part, bushing at the far left -
Pay attention to the orange ratchet strap holding the axle assembly horizontally - that simple trick makes both removal and assembly buckets easier.
The brake line passes through the upper trailing link twice meaning that you'll be breaching the brake line twice which means you'll have to bleed that air out of that section of brake line -
Front - Note the D shape of the hole - I thought that I had to keep the fitting from spinning when undoing the flare nut but that D shape keeps the other side from turning, so you can just loosen it, it can't spin.
Rear -
This is the clip that secures both 'pass throughs' -
Since I had done this before, I decided to buy the SATV axle puller, I'm glad I did ... it makes the job easier and good tools aren't an expense, they're an investment. Those aren't the provided 'setscrews', I had to provide my own. That 'hammer' weighs as much as I do - On the second WHACK the axle let go and I almost fell off the box I was sitting on. 
Honda must use the largest SxS CV available because the SATV puller barely fit over it -
The provided bolts are 'shouldered' (because I can't think of the right term). They wouldn't grab the threads in the collar, and if they did, only by a thread, they'd have stripped if I had tightened them -
Although I had a complete spare axle, I realized that I didn't have enough 'other stuff' to replace it in camp ... so I packed up and headed home. I'd have tried harder but had ridden ~1300 miles on this trip and felt ok calling the season over.This camp -
This oil change -
This torn boot -
This is what was left of the CV after I cut the boot off. It was worse before I cycled it through its range of motion and the grease covered the rust, but it was very stiff and binding up pretty bad -
While I was getting ready to replace the axle, I discovered that the front bushing on the upper trailing link had left the building (the one right behind the driver's butt). Now I knew what that damn KLUNK in the rear end was. So my new task, on top of the axle assembly replacement, was also replacing that upper trailing link (no, you can't just buy the damn bushing
).This (dirty) red part, bushing at the far left -
Pay attention to the orange ratchet strap holding the axle assembly horizontally - that simple trick makes both removal and assembly buckets easier.
The brake line passes through the upper trailing link twice meaning that you'll be breaching the brake line twice which means you'll have to bleed that air out of that section of brake line -
Front - Note the D shape of the hole - I thought that I had to keep the fitting from spinning when undoing the flare nut but that D shape keeps the other side from turning, so you can just loosen it, it can't spin.
Rear -
This is the clip that secures both 'pass throughs' -
Since I had done this before, I decided to buy the SATV axle puller, I'm glad I did ... it makes the job easier and good tools aren't an expense, they're an investment. Those aren't the provided 'setscrews', I had to provide my own. That 'hammer' weighs as much as I do -
On the second WHACK the axle let go and I almost fell off the box I was sitting on. Honda must use the largest SxS CV available because the SATV puller barely fit over it -
The provided bolts are 'shouldered' (because I can't think of the right term). They wouldn't grab the threads in the collar, and if they did, only by a thread, they'd have stripped if I had tightened them -
Last edited:
ToddACimer
Pioneer 1005-2
Lifetime Member
Swapped tires again. 32" Terra Masters.
Next up is the front lower bumper tab replacement so I can put my Bosman bumper on straight.
Next up is the front lower bumper tab replacement so I can put my Bosman bumper on straight.
D
Still working on this post, hang on, Dudes -
Ok, now I'm done -
Waaaaaay back in October, toward the end of the season (even in Utah), I did a scheduled campsite oil change. During that, I found this torn boot. I'm not sure why it didn't spit grease all over that corner of the Talon to let me know that I had a problem, but it didn't.
This camp -
View attachment 461469
This oil change -
View attachment 461468
This torn boot -
View attachment 461471
This is what was left of the CV after I cut the boot off. It was worse before I cycled it through its range of motion and the grease covered the rust, but it was very stiff and binding up pretty bad -
View attachment 461512
While I was getting ready to replace the axle, I discovered that the front bushing on the upper trailing link had left the building (the one right behind the driver's butt). Now I knew what that damn KLUNK in the rear end was. So my new task, on top of the axle assembly replacement, was also replacing that upper trailing link (no, you can't just buy the damn bushing
This (dirty) red part, bushing at the far left -
View attachment 461472
Pay attention to the orange ratchet strap holding the axle assembly horizontally - that simple trick makes both removal and assembly buckets easier.
View attachment 461473
View attachment 461474
The brake line passes through the upper trailing link twice meaning that you'll be breaching the brake line twice which means you'll have to bleed that air out of that section of brake line -
Front - Note the D shape of the hole - I thought that I had to keep the fitting from spinning when undoing the flare nut but that D shape keeps the other side from turning, so you can just loosen it, it can't spin.
View attachment 461484
Rear -
View attachment 461488
This is the clip that secures both 'pass throughs' -
View attachment 461490
Since I had done this before, I decided to buy the SATV axle puller, I'm glad I did ... it makes the job easier and good tools aren't an expense, they're an investment. Those aren't the provided 'setscrews', I had to provide my own. That 'hammer' weighs as much as I do -
View attachment 461503
Honda must use the largest SxS CV available because the SATV puller barely fit over it -
View attachment 461508
The provided bolts are 'shouldered' (because I can't think of the right term). They wouldn't grab the threads in the collar, and if they did, only by a thread, they'd have stripped if I had tightened them -
View attachment 461510
Seems torn boots are your nemesis, have you ever considered roost deflectors? These work for me.Still working on this post, hang on, Dudes -
Ok, now I'm done -
Waaaaaay back in October, toward the end of the season (even in Utah), I did a scheduled campsite oil change. During that, I found this torn boot. I'm not sure why it didn't spit grease all over that corner of the Talon to let me know that I had a problem, but it didn't.
This camp -
View attachment 461469
This oil change -
View attachment 461468
This torn boot -
View attachment 461471
This is what was left of the CV after I cut the boot off. It was worse before I cycled it through its range of motion and the grease covered the rust, but it was very stiff and binding up pretty bad -
View attachment 461512
While I was getting ready to replace the axle, I discovered that the front bushing on the upper trailing link had left the building (the one right behind the driver's butt). Now I knew what that damn KLUNK in the rear end was. So my new task, on top of the axle assembly replacement, was also replacing that upper trailing link (no, you can't just buy the damn bushing
This (dirty) red part, bushing at the far left -
View attachment 461472
Pay attention to the orange ratchet strap holding the axle assembly horizontally - that simple trick makes both removal and assembly buckets easier.
View attachment 461473
View attachment 461474
The brake line passes through the upper trailing link twice meaning that you'll be breaching the brake line twice which means you'll have to bleed that air out of that section of brake line -
Front - Note the D shape of the hole - I thought that I had to keep the fitting from spinning when undoing the flare nut but that D shape keeps the other side from turning, so you can just loosen it, it can't spin.
View attachment 461484
Rear -
View attachment 461488
This is the clip that secures both 'pass throughs' -
View attachment 461490
Since I had done this before, I decided to buy the SATV axle puller, I'm glad I did ... it makes the job easier and good tools aren't an expense, they're an investment. Those aren't the provided 'setscrews', I had to provide my own. That 'hammer' weighs as much as I do -
View attachment 461503
Honda must use the largest SxS CV available because the SATV puller barely fit over it -
View attachment 461508
The provided bolts are 'shouldered' (because I can't think of the right term). They wouldn't grab the threads in the collar, and if they did, only by a thread, they'd have stripped if I had tightened them -
View attachment 461510
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
After 4-1/2 years and 16k miles, I decided to replace the original air filter because it's paper and could simply shake itself to bits (it didn't). I checked on it every once in a while but it was always clean so I put it back together until the next check up. All of those miles were with a Uni pod filter on a snorkel behind the passenger's seat headrest (details and part numbers in the New Talon Owners thread linked in my sig). If filters are $45 and you might get 500 miles per filter, that's 32 filters and $1440 -
Close up -
Close up -
Last edited:
WagginTail
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Club Contributor
My lawn mower has an inner and outer filter. The inner filter would always be so clean I wouldn't change it, only the outer. One day I checked the filters and the inner filter had started to come apart. After that, and for a few bucks more, I started changing the inner filter at the same time as the outer.After 4-1/2 years and 16k miles, I decided to replace the original air filter because it's paper and could simply shake itself to bits (it didn't). I checked on it every once in a while but it was always clean so I put it back together until the next check up. All of those miles were with a Uni pod filter on a snorkel behind the passenger's seat headrest (details and part numbers in the New Talon Owners thread linked in my sig). If filters are $45 and you might get 500 miles per filter, that's 32 filters and $1440 -
View attachment 461762
Close up -
View attachment 461766
SLOWPOKE693
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
After 4-1/2 years and 16k miles, I decided to replace the original air filter because it's paper and could simply shake itself to bits (it didn't). I checked on it every once in a while but it was always clean so I put it back together until the next check up. All of those miles were with a Uni pod filter on a snorkel behind the passenger's seat headrest (details and part numbers in the New Talon Owners thread linked in my sig). If filters are $45 and you might get 500 miles per filter, that's 32 filters and $1440 -
View attachment 461762
Close up -
View attachment 461766
A prefilter system is hands down the best single modification you can install on the Talon. As you are well aware, the less you open the stock airbox the better off you are.
The dealers that like to accessorize machines before selling them should all be offering and installing the 10-80 Dirtsports pre-filter kits on every Talon they sell. Upselling an accessory that does such a good job of protecting the engine along with the ease of maintenance, it would practically sell itself.
SLOWPOKE693
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Those yellow Can Am wheels look very awesome on your Talon. Excellent choice!
ToddACimer
Pioneer 1005-2
Lifetime Member
I really wanted them in desert tan but the cost of powder coating wasn't worth it to me and these were on marketplace for $500 which made them a very affordable and high quality bead lock wheel
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Absolutely correct and something I should have said. To replace those ~32 filters, I would have had to open/close the air box ~32 times instead of ~6, trouble looking for a place to happen. For those who don't have a snorkel yet - get an inspection camera/endo scope for your cell phone or tablet and use the airbox water drain to inspect your filter. This wasn't my idea but I won't 'name drop', if he wants to speak up, he can.
With the Uni on a snorkel, I can see when it needs to be replaced without disturbing anything and it takes 5 minutes to R&R a filter. I have 3 of them, so there's always a clean one ready to install.
About the clips holding the airbox lid on, they're a finger killer -
The solution is a 19 mm end wrench - use the open end to release the clips and the closed end to pull them back into place, also not my idea but I don't remember where I saw it. It's pretty simple to figure it out once you're there.
Last edited:
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