P1000 Viper V3 Winch Install

[cochran5]

Does anyone have experience installing the Viper V3 on a 1000-5? I didn’t see any in a search but several on elite, V2, etc. I have some questions on orientation. After mounting (club store 1000 bracket), the posts for the wire leads are on the bottom of the winch. The provided wires from motoalliance are really too short to run back to the solenoid making me wonder if I have an issues with orientation. It’s the V3 widespool, 6000lb.

 

[Admin]

 

[TxDoc]

Warn, Ramsey and Superwinch recommend the cable/ rope spool onto the drum from the bottom. But, say that's mostly on the big truck winches.

You can make a pigtail of yYou need a little more length. But, I would call customer service and check what orientation they recommend .

Good luck and come back and report your finding.

Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

 

[ChadD]

@Hondasxs

 

[JACKAL]

Does anyone have experience installing the Viper V3 on a 1000-5? I didn’t see any in a search but several on elite, V2, etc. I have some questions on orientation. After mounting (club store 1000 bracket), the posts for the wire leads are on the bottom of the winch. The provided wires from motoalliance are really too short to run back to the solenoid making me wonder if I have an issues with orientation. It’s the V3 widespool, 6000lb.

View attachment 451292View attachment 451291

I don't have the V3 yet but it's incoming. From your picture the rope should come out to the fairlead from just under the bar feeding winding from the bottom of spool. Your wire connections facing low need to be clocked 180 degrees where they face up from the 6 O clock position to the 12 O clock position looking at it from the end. On th2 V2's you unfasten the four long bolts around the perimeter just to the right of those terminals, rotate the end piece unit the hole line up and return the long bolts and fasten them.

Thar said I can't tell from your picture if those terminals on the V3 housing rotate with the end piece that has the 6000 sticker, if they don't not sure how you deal with it, I may soon find out myself.

EDIT: you can also unbolt the winch, flip it where the terminals are on the left hand side facing up, but you may or may not have to unspool the rope and re-wind it where it pulls from the top of the spool as it does now. Just a thought if the terminals are in a fixed position. Like this cheezy edited pics.

 

[bumperm]

A 6,000 pound winch sounds awesome, but that's on the large size for our sxs I think. Sure, bigger is better - up to a point. Problem there is two-fold, and not made easier by the winch manufacturers, many of them kind of bury the figures and info you need. With a 4.5K winch, no-load free spool-in is on the order of 30 amps, that's quite a load on the battery with no load on the rope. Add load to the rope and current draw can go up over 200 amp. The duty cycle is (IIRC) something on the order of 1 to 10, depending on load - or 1 minute on and 10 minutes cool down. See: file:///C:/Users/bumpe/Downloads/Performance%20Data%20&%20Parts%20List.pdf

Having a bigger winch than needed may give one bragging (or pulling) rights, you might rescue a Sherman tank if you find one stuck in a ditch, but also maybe battery size issues. The typical aux battery may be 30 amp hours (when it's new and fully charged), enough to provide just a few minutes of winching at near full load. The 50 amp alternator only churns out that amount with engine at 5000 rpm, and not nearly a worthwhile amount at idle.

Just some food for winching thought. Oh, and wenching has an even lower duty cycle with pricy outcomes too.

 

[TxDoc]

A 6,000 pound winch sounds awesome, but that's on the large size for our sxs I think. Sure, bigger is better - up to a point. Problem there is two-fold, and not made easier by the winch manufacturers, many of them kind of bury the figures and info you need. With a 4.5K winch, no-load free spool-in is on the order of 30 amps, that's quite a load on the battery with no load on the rope. Add load to the rope and current draw can go up over 200 amp. The duty cycle is (IIRC) something on the order of 1 to 10, depending on load - or 1 minute on and 10 minutes cool down. See: file:///C:/Users/bumpe/Downloads/Performance%20Data%20&%20Parts%20List.pdf

Having a bigger winch than needed may give one bragging (or pulling) rights, you might rescue a Sherman tank if you find one stuck in a ditch, but also maybe battery size issues. The typical aux battery may be 30 amp hours (when it's new and fully charged), enough to provide just a few minutes of winching at near full load. The 50 amp alternator only churns out that amount with engine at 5000 rpm, and not nearly a worthwhile amount at idle.

Just some food for winching thought. Oh, and wenching has an even lower duty cycle with pricy outcomes too.

VERY IMPORTANT info bumperm

I think a major brand truck winch may be 40% duty cycle. And, people run to HF because of the 1/3-1/4 cost. They don't realize
Harbor Freight Truck/SUV Winch has a duty cycle rating of 5%, which means it can be run for 45 seconds at its maximum rated load, followed by a 14 minute and 15 second rest period. And, they burn up the motor.

The top, and higher priced winches, have the battery voltage and live motor temp on the handheld remote. The Warn app for your phone e shows live battery voltage and live line tension

I was taught if the motor is too hot to hold your hand on, continuously, let it cool for ten minutes or more and test again.

You can smoke a motor and simply ruin it, but you can also hurt one and it will never run at it's maximum potential again.

Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

 

[cochran5]

Warn, Ramsey and Superwinch recommend the cable/ rope spool onto the drum from the bottom. But, say that's mostly on the big truck winches.

You can make a pigtail of yYou need a little more length. But, I would call customer service and check what orientation they recommend .

Good luck and come back and report your finding.

Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the thoughts. I’ll report back.

 

[JACKAL]

A 6,000 pound winch sounds awesome, but that's on the large size for our sxs I think. Sure, bigger is better - up to a point. Problem there is two-fold, and not made easier by the winch manufacturers, many of them kind of bury the figures and info you need. With a 4.5K winch, no-load free spool-in is on the order of 30 amps, that's quite a load on the battery with no load on the rope. Add load to the rope and current draw can go up over 200 amp. The duty cycle is (IIRC) something on the order of 1 to 10, depending on load - or 1 minute on and 10 minutes cool down. See: file:///C:/Users/bumpe/Downloads/Performance%20Data%20&%20Parts%20List.pdf

Having a bigger winch than needed may give one bragging (or pulling) rights, you might rescue a Sherman tank if you find one stuck in a ditch, but also maybe battery size issues. The typical aux battery may be 30 amp hours (when it's new and fully charged), enough to provide just a few minutes of winching at near full load. The 50 amp alternator only churns out that amount with engine at 5000 rpm, and not nearly a worthwhile amount at idle.

Just some food for winching thought. Oh, and wenching has an even lower duty cycle with pricy outcomes too.

I've had a 6K winch Viper V2 on my Pioneer for 8 months, works great no dual battery. But with it I had to drive a lifted truck so my d1ck doesn't drag the ground 😁

 

[cochran5]

A 6,000 pound winch sounds awesome, but that's on the large size for our sxs I think. Sure, bigger is better - up to a point. Problem there is two-fold, and not made easier by the winch manufacturers, many of them kind of bury the figures and info you need. With a 4.5K winch, no-load free spool-in is on the order of 30 amps, that's quite a load on the battery with no load on the rope. Add load to the rope and current draw can go up over 200 amp. The duty cycle is (IIRC) something on the order of 1 to 10, depending on load - or 1 minute on and 10 minutes cool down. See: file:///C:/Users/bumpe/Downloads/Performance%20Data%20&%20Parts%20List.pdf

Having a bigger winch than needed may give one bragging (or pulling) rights, you might rescue a Sherman tank if you find one stuck in a ditch, but also maybe battery size issues. The typical aux battery may be 30 amp hours (when it's new and fully charged), enough to provide just a few minutes of winching at near full load. The 50 amp alternator only churns out that amount with engine at 5000 rpm, and not nearly a worthwhile amount at idle.

Just some food for winching thought. Oh, and wenching has an even lower duty cycle with pricy outcomes too.

Good thoughts. I actually went with the 6000 V3 due to being a little slimmer not factoring in any issues on power draw. I should have considered that.

 

[cochran5]

I don't have the V3 yet but it's incoming. From your picture the rope should come out to the fairlead from just under the bar with the zip tie. You wire connections facing low and forward need to be clocked 180 degrees where they face up and back from the 6 O clock position to the 12 O clock position looking at it from the end. On th2 V2's you unfasten the four long bolts around the perimeter just to the right of those terminals, rotate the end piece unit the hole line up and return the long bolts and fasten them.

Thar said I can't tell from your picture if those terminals on the V3 housing rotate with the end piece that has the 6000 sticker, if they don't not sure how you deal with it, I may soon find out myself.

EDIT: you can also unbolt the winch, flip it where the terminals are on the left hand side facing up, but you may or may not have to unspool the rope and re-wind it where it pulls from the top of the spool as it does now. Just a thought if the terminals are in a fixed position. Like this cheezy edited pics.
View attachment 451306
View attachment 451308

Thanks for the thoughts and taking the time to mark up the photos. Not sure on terminals rotating yet hopeful so if I have to clock it.

 

[JACKAL]

Thanks for the thoughts and taking the time to mark up the photos. Not sure on terminals rotating yet hopeful so if I have to clock it.

I think unbolting from the mounting plate and flipping it may be the way to go, I just don't see from the picture where those terminals rotate with the end, this is an all new winch housing design.

 

[DRZRon1]

Good thoughts. I actually went with the 6000 V3 due to being a little slimmer not factoring in any issues on power draw. I should have considered that.

if u r on a budget/etc — rule of thumb is 1.5X your vehicle weight for winch sizing - all you need - and do some research on how to properly winch and why a snatch block can be your best friend

 

[Scoop]

Spool from the top or bottom of drum: A winch should always spool from the bottom (underwound orientation) rather than the top (overwound orientation). If you spool in an overwound orientation, it can put undue stress on mounting hardware and increase the apparent load, risking breakage. It also puts stress on the brake and can force it to lock. You could increase the apparent load by nearly three times if you spool from the top compared to spooling from the bottom. As @TxDoc said, this is more important when dealing with big winches and heavy vehicles, but it's still the proper way regardless of winch/vehicle.

Spooling the winch rope ON TO the drum: Always spool the winch rope onto the drum in the direction specified by the drum rotation labels on the winch and/or in the documentation. It’s important that your winch rope drum is spooled in the right direction because winding the rope on your winch in the wrong orientation will cause its ratchet or braking system to not function properly and it will not hold your load (most winches only have a 1-way brake).

 

[Hondasxs]

Well.. this topic took a turn with TMI.

I do not understand what you mean by running the wires to "the back". The battery is up front, making the Pioneer 1000 one of the easiest machines to make battery connections. I have wired a handful or 2 and always find the wires way too long.

I think the motor goes on the passenger side.
This would make the rope on top.
It could be done either way, I guess.

 

[Scoop]

Well.. this topic took a turn with TMI.

He asked about proper orientation, which can sometimes lead some to unspoolong and spooling the rope incorrectly. 🤷‍♂️

I do not understand what you mean by running the wires to "the back". The battery is up front

He didn't say run the wires TO the back. He said run the wires back to the solenoid. 😉

 

[Hondasxs]

He asked about proper orientation, which can sometimes lead some to unspoolong and spooling the rope incorrectly. 🤷‍♂️



He didn't say run the wires to THE back. He said run the wires back to the solenoid. 😉

Kool.... A lot of data and info is given. Lots of good info too.
I'd say 99% of the people are not even aware of what a duty cycle is... Or that it should rest (x long) after such short usage.
I know about all this, but it's never been a concern for any of us when on the trail.

Anyways, I don't feel like these cables are considered short.
I think I have some at the shop. I'll measure tomorrow.

 

[DRZRon1]

Kool.... A lot of data and info is given. Lots of good info too.
I'd say 99% of the people are not even aware of what a duty cycle is... Or that it should rest (x long) after such short usage.
I know about all this, but it's never been a concern for any of us when on the trail.

Anyways, I don't feel like these cables are considered short.
I think I have some at the shop. I'll measure tomorrow.

yeh - not sure I e ever heard anyone yelling about being carefull about duty cycle yanking these things outta “hold my beer” I’ll try it stuff

 

[cochran5]

UPDATE - Motoalliance suggested that some machines need the extended wires when I sent them the picture. So I need longer wires to reach my solenoid, by just a few inches. The orientation is correct for me with the contacts down. As suggested on this site in other posts, they said the only need to clock it is if the posts are hitting. I’ll extend the wires and roll with it, even if I may have bought a little more winch than I needed… lesson learned.

 

[cochran5]

UPDATE - Motoalliance suggested that some machines need the extended wires when I sent them the picture. So I need longer wires to reach my solenoid, by just a few inches. The orientation is correct for me with the contacts down. As suggested on this site in other posts, they said the only need to clock it is if the posts are hitting. I’ll extend the wires and roll with it, even if I may have bought a little more winch than I needed… lesson learned.

My solenoid is by the battery so not in a crazy place far away.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

UPDATE - Motoalliance suggested that some machines need the extended wires when I sent them the picture. So I need longer wires to reach my solenoid, by just a few inches. The orientation is correct for me with the contacts down. As suggested on this site in other posts, they said the only need to clock it is if the posts are hitting. I’ll extend the wires and roll with it, even if I may have bought a little more winch than I needed… lesson learned.

No such thing as having too much winch, in my experience.