True UTV-SBI Smart Isolator ????

[farmtimpioneer]

OK, I have a Question about True battery isolator, I installed aux. battery and isolator back early 2018 seems to work as intended and I have not had a chance to confirm this or test it but I thought someone may know the answer, I know that when main battery is charged up to peak voltage by charging system or battery charger at that point blue led indicator light comes on and opens circuit to aux. battery and then aux. battery at that point is being charged as well as main battery which is fine if you are charging battery with charger during off time in the shop or whatever, the main battery charges then the aux. battery charges but if you are using vehicle and main battery is constantly in a discharge to where the isolator never opens circuit and you are drawing from aux. battery with accessories than You could get in a situation where the aux. battery would go dead because isolator circuit did not open to charge system, is that correct or am i just full of crap and don't understand exactly how it works, I thought if that is the case than should I put in an override to bypass isolator or manually open circuit for periodic charging,,,,, Thank You,,,,,,

 

[Admin]

 

[trigger]

Been pointing that out for a couple years now. Short runs that never recharge the main battery will allow your aux battery to die. Or you could kill your aux battery winching out of a hole and have a full main battery you can't use. As for the over ride switch, that's what the manual type switch is for, you control it.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Selector-Battery/dp/B000MMFJH0/?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Hondasxs]

Then such the case you need to inspect your charging system.
It should be pumping 14[+-] volts. The isolator only needs 12.8 to close and combine the 2 batteries.

 

[Hondasxs]

There is so many scenarios of if's.

Worst case primary goes bad but it should still read 12.8+ with the motor running.

Now you have a bad primary and a good secondary and it wont crank.
A manual option is needed. Install one or carry a short jumper wire. Or at this point you just need to get back. Unscrew and connect them to the same post and bypass the isolator.

 

[farmtimpioneer]

There is so many scenarios of if's.

Worst case primary goes bad but it should still read 12.8+ with the motor running.

Now you have a bad primary and a good secondary and it wont crank.
A manual option is needed. Install one or carry a short jumper wire. Or at this point you just need to get back. Unscrew and connect them to the same post and bypass the isolator.

Thanks sounds good , if isolator is consistently open at 12.8 V then it should work fine, I just was not sure how often circuit would be open during normal use ,,,,,,,,,

 

[farmtimpioneer]

There is so many scenarios of if's.

Worst case primary goes bad but it should still read 12.8+ with the motor running.

Now you have a bad primary and a good secondary and it wont crank.
A manual option is needed. Install one or carry a short jumper wire. Or at this point you just need to get back. Unscrew and connect them to the same post and bypass the isolator.

Sounds like I may just be full of crap,,,,,👍 Thanks,,,,,

 

[CID]

This is why two volt meters are so handy, you can actually see what's happening to both batteries in real time.

 

[Russ989]

This is why two volt meters are so handy, you can actually see what's happening to both batteries in real time.

I agree, that’s how mine is set up. I’ve never had an issue.

 

[TripleB]

This is why two volt meters are so handy, you can actually see what's happening to both batteries in real time.

The dual volt meter is how I knew my true isolator was failing. The 2nd battery was staying at 12 volts. When I checked under the hood, the blue light wasn't coming on. It wasn't letting the charge go through the isolator. The isolator looked to have moisture in it. I ordered just the isolator and replaced it 2 weeks ago. All is good now. It lasted a little over a year.

 

[CID]

I'm a newb to SxSs (aging out of dirt bikes) and just added a VM to my Talon. I wired it to a dash toggle switch directly to the power cable from the winch contactor. I also added a separate wire to the XTC accessory lead. The reason is that I wanted to know the resting battery voltage without the key (and system) ON.

I'd recommend this for a dual battery setup too so that you could see both battery voltages before the isolator connects them together. Once they're bridged, the low battery will drag the fully charged battery down and you wouldn't know the actual individual voltages. I understand that the isolator shouldn't bridge the aux battery until there is 14+ volts but everything has the possibility of failure. My suggested wiring would expose that failure.