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I'll try and take a pic of a stock SE when I get home... Maybe get some suggestions about where to put everything for a dual battery.Link - P1000m5 - What did you add to/do with your Pioneer 1000 5 today?
Only pic I could find of a SE.
I'll try and take a pic of a stock SE when I get home... Maybe get some suggestions about where to put everything for a dual battery.Link - P1000m5 - What did you add to/do with your Pioneer 1000 5 today?
Only pic I could find of a SE.
My Mighty Max has been good too. Really been surprised by it.I've been running the mighty max for over a year / 7000 miles and it's been solid.
Mine arrives today ... as does the Tru isolator kit from the Honda SXS Club store ...M
My Mighty Max has been good too. Really been surprised by it.
Scoop - Totally agree with this - I love the 12 position block I got, even though I thought it was overkill and a mistake in the video at the time. Since then I am up to about 8 or 9 circuits already. I may end up adding a 2nd smaller block like you guys are talking about for always on power, but so far have not needed it. But need and want are two different things and we just kain't stop fiddling with this stuff now can we?I actually ordered (and received) one of the larger blocks (12 fuse like @RobSparre got with the LED indicator for blown fuse) as well as a 6 fuse version of a very similar one. It should be small enough to install where Rob said (in his video) might be a good place for a smaller fuse box. If it works out, I'll just order a second one to mount on the other side and not worry about mounting the larger fuse box on the air filter top.
For sure. The smaller 6 position block I (also) bought fits perfectly over on the left side (red arrow, green circle). I just don't have a need for it yet.Scoop - Totally agree with this - I love the 12 position block I got, even though I thought it was overkill and a mistake in the video at the time. Since then I am up to about 8 or 9 circuits already. I may end up adding a 2nd smaller block like you guys are talking about for always on power, but so far have not needed it. But need and want are two different things and we just kain't stop fiddling with this stuff now can we?
I ended up putting my winch contactor in that spot where you are planning to put the 6 position block. I see you put your fuse box on top of the aux battery. I am thinking that might have been an easier solution than I did. I am also having some bus bar envy - yours is way better than my cheap-ass bars.For sure. The smaller 6 position block I (also) bought fits perfectly over on the left side (red arrow, green circle). I just don't have a need for it yet.
I've since added a few more things (e.g., stereo, USB 3.0 dual charger, etc.) that aren't in this pic.
For always on power, I've added one item directly to my positive bus bar (that USB 3.0 dual charger), but it has it's own on-off switch on it's face and an inline fuse that I just left.
Oh, and I was able to get that 12v key-on adapter from the Club store installed inline with the 12v socket by reaching up through the wheel well. I guess my arms were just a little longer than yours.
View attachment 305046
My winch contactor is over on the right side in front of the negative bus bar.I ended up putting my winch contactor in that spot where you are planning to put the 6 position block. I see you put your fuse box on top of the aux battery. I am thinking that might have been an easier solution than I did. I am also having some bus bar envy - yours is way better than my cheap-ass bars.
Instead of permanently installing a trickle charger, I used a different approach, installing a Powerlet socket (with weather cover) on the front to the right of the grill. I can connect my battery charger to that jack by adding a Powerlet plug to the charger cord. This then allows the Powerlet socket to be doubly useful, both for charging batteries and to provide power outside for 12 volt accessories such as an air pump etc. Even a small inverter for AC power (short term of course). One could also use a folding PV panel to charge the batteries if desired.A NOCO Genisu2D direct mount 2A battery charger and then installing the companion NOCO outlet receptacle somewhere on the body. That way, I don't have to remove the hood to charge. I can just pop the plug cover, plug a regular extension cord right into the receptacle and leave it charging 24x7x265.
Yea, we used those for many years back when I was doing a lot of road miles on 2 wheels. Also used the BatteryTender dongles in a similar fashion. I was looking to going this way because I like the idea of needing nothing more than a standard 110v extension cord versus something with a transformer. Who knows, maybe I'll change my mind. Thanks for the suggestion.Instead of permanently installing a trickle charger, I used a different approach, installing a Powerlet socket (with weather cover) on the front to the right of the grill. I can connect my battery charger to that jack by adding a Powerlet plug to the charger cord. This then allows the Powerlet socket to be doubly useful, both for charging batteries and to provide power outside for 12 volt accessories such as an air pump etc. Even a small inverter for AC power (short term of course). One could also use a folding PV panel to charge the batteries if desired.
I've standardized on Powlet plugs as they provide reliable connections and low loss. They are also called BMW plugs, Bosch Plugs, and John Deere tractors used to use them too (don't know if they still do). First ran into them on German gliders.
I did see that drill - I replied to that post, but you being a chatty-kathy and all I can't keep up with where that was. You are everywhere. I definitely gotta get one of those drills. If you were really a friend you would have showed me that before I started the project.Did you see that right angle drill accessory I used to drill the hole in the frame for the regulator? I also reused that quick connector (holding the body to the frame) on the other end. That relay is as solid as a rock and not going anywhere.
If you get those Recoil bus bars, just be careful tightening up the screws when adding accessories. They strip out more easily than I expected. So they are kinda cheap-ass, too, but they are red cheap-ass and black-cheap ass ...
It's actually even easier than that. Mr. HondaSxS hisself point out what an idjut I am by reminding me that, once the hole for the switch plate is drilled out, it's super easy to reach through that hole and voila, it's right there. Sigh....Oh, and I was able to get that 12v key-on adapter from the Club store installed inline with the 12v socket by reaching up through the wheel well. I guess my arms were just a little longer than yours.
For sure. The smaller 6 position block I (also) bought fits perfectly over on the left side (red arrow, green circle). I just don't have a need for it yet.
I've since added a few more things (e.g., stereo, USB 3.0 dual charger, etc.) that aren't in this pic.
For always on power, I've added one item directly to my positive bus bar (that USB 3.0 dual charger), but it has it's own on-off switch on it's face and an inline fuse that I just left.
Oh, and I was able to get that 12v key-on adapter from the Club store installed inline with the 12v socket by reaching up through the wheel well. I guess my arms were just a little longer than yours.
View attachment 305046
HEY, I resemble that !! 🤣🤣I did see that drill - I replied to that post, but you being a chatty-kathy and
Yea, I saw that before I did mine, but I wanted to do it the hard way, just to find out HOW difficult it was. LOL.It's actually even easier than that. Mr. HondaSxS hisself point out what an idjut I am by reminding me that, once the hole for the switch plate is drilled out, it's super easy to reach through that hole and voila, it's right there. Sigh....
My set up is fairly similar (my circuit breaker, relays and 6 tap bus are on the passenger side like yours), but I'm missing where you have the fuse/breaker on the main winch positive from the battery to the contactor. Are you doing it on the negative through the 3 - Cole Hersee 65A?
I absolutely don't know, but do you want/need a fuse/breaker between the battery and the winch contactor?
Almost did that (like everybody else). Then I decided that I didn't want to be like everybody else. Well, that and my mild CDO - CDO is like OCD, but the letters are all in the right #$%^ order!PS: I thought about it for a while, but decided to mount my True Isolator in the open spot - the spot you kept open for your next necessity.
Understand now your fuse positive. Your order seems to be in the right sh_t.Almost did that (like everybody else). Then I decided that I didn't want to be like everybody else. Well, that and my mild CDO - CDO is like OCD, but the letters are all in the right #$%^ order!
I absolutely don't know, but do you want/need a fuse/breaker between the battery and the winch contactor?
Best,
StewB