Transporting Your New Honda Pioneer

[JTW]

Your product (brake locking device) looks excellent, but just to be clear to others it's a add-on that's easy to install. Honda evidently does not provide a parking brake with the new P1000 machine. I may install the device since it seems like a handy safety feature, and it appears a snap to install.

Thanks for the info and video.

It’s not my product.. and no, Honda doesn’t have a parking brake in the p1000. That’s the joke, that you just ruined!! Damn it TinCan... it’s garbage now!

 

[Admin]

 

[tincangob]

It’s not my product.. and no, Honda doesn’t have a parking brake in the p1000. That’s the joke, that you just ruined!! Damn it TinCan... it’s garbage now!

Hey, I'm old and slow.......... give me a break. I thought maybe you put your foot on the ground for an emergency brake. BTW, the product you mentioned does look effective. I guess I should have read more of the thread before responding and blowing it. Sorry!

38 degrees in Wisconsin today which makes it an opportunity for what may be a last ride, but I can't figure out how to get my machine off of the trailer since I had my neighbor weld it on.

 

[JTW]

Hey, I'm old and slow.......... give me a break. I thought maybe you put your foot on the ground for an emergency brake. BTW, the product you mentioned does look effective. I guess I should have read more of the thread before responding and blowing it. Sorry!

38 degrees in Wisconsin today which makes it an opportunity for what may be a last ride, but I can't figure out how to get my machine off of the trailer since I had my neighbor weld it on.

lol... no worries. I’m just giving you s***. I highly recommend the HB brake. I’ve tried several different options and this is the best.

 

[BenM]

Well the salesman who sold me my 2019 P1K-5 suggested I run the strap thru the frame right in front of the front diff when I was loading my P1K-5 at the dealership. Once I got home 15 miles away I realized the bouncing broke the bracket for the 4x4 linkage and cut the new 3" strap on the frame...…….. so needless to say I was quite unhappy. I managed to get it into 4x4 and rode all weekend then delivered my new machine back to dealer. Two weeks later got to take my baby home again diff case replaced and like new again.

I would suggest you secure your rig however you are comfortable and confident regardless of suggestion. just my .02

 

[pioneer_titan]

I bought these rails and straps off amazon last year. I drilled thru the floor and bolted a piece of flat bar running perpendicular on the bottom side. This is by far the easiest and most secure way I've found to haul the unit around.

 

[Pilotadam]

I bought these rails and straps off amazon last year. I drilled thru the floor and bolted a piece of flat bar running perpendicular on the bottom side. This is by far the easiest and most secure way I've found to haul the unit around. View attachment 169754 View attachment 169755

Do you happen to know what that was called on amazon? I am trying to find a tire tie down setup for my trailer.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[papermaker]

I bought these rails and straps off amazon last year. I drilled thru the floor and bolted a piece of flat bar running perpendicular on the bottom side. This is by far the easiest and most secure way I've found to haul the unit around. View attachment 169754 View attachment 169755

Do you use just 2 tie-downs or do you do all 4 tires?

 

[JTW]

It’s called E track... there is also L track if you prefer a smaller foot print. It’s what’s used for airplane cargo.

 

[Pilotadam]

Thanks! I have been looking for something like this for my small trailer. In the toyhauler I mounted D rings where the Rear tires go to strap them down. I has worked great.

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[pioneer_titan]

Do you use just 2 tie-downs or do you do all 4 tires?

I only did the front 2 tires, and it don't budge an inch

 

[pioneer_titan]

Do you happen to know what that was called on amazon? I am trying to find a tire tie down setup for my trailer.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

They were Kinedyne 2" straps with the E-trac hook and i also bought (2) 2' pieces of E-trac

 

[tincangob]

I normally use 4 straps attached around the axles, and my machine never seems to move at all. I do check the straps after 5 or 10 miles and they usually can use a tad of tightening. I did not put my machine in 4 wheel lock until reading this forum - not a bad idea. I have an aluminum bed trailer and I'm reluctant to drill holes or else I'd probably secure machine differently. I have tied my two back straps to the trailer hitch and it worked fine even though that is not recommended. On short hauls

 

[tincangob]

I should have mentioned in previous post that I don't think the 1" straps should be used to tie down anything substantial like a ATV/UTV. Buy a good quality 1 1/2 inch tie down minimally, and the ones with latch to secure the hook are well worth the extra money. You get up in the $50 range for 4 decent tie downs.

 

[cowsmowmygrass]

We all know the feeling, the dealer just handed you the keys to your new Side by Side. You are super excited to get it home and take it for the first ride, so you load it on the trailer in a hurry, slap a few straps on it and head home. This mistake could leave a novice rider in a very tough situation if it was to come loose. To help prevent a costly mistake I have put together a basic “How To” for securing your new Pioneer for the journey home.

When preparing to load it onto the trailer be sure to take the following steps:
Step 1 – Before driving onto the trailer put the SxS in 4-wheel drive, differential lock. Do this by moving the 4wd shifter to the 4-wheel lock position and moving the unit forward aprox. 3 feet or so until the locked light comes on. This will insure all 4 wheels are locked down equally.

Step 2 – Drive it on the trailer to the spot you wish to secure it. Then engage the park brake by pulling the leaver down until tight. Dont put a superman grip on it, just one decent pull will be ok.

Step 3 – Secure the SxS with 4 tie-down straps. Review the images below indicating where to hook the tie-downs. Pull the straps very tight. We assume you know how to use tie-down straps. Do not use rope or other items as replacements for straps.

Step 4 – Rock the SxS to insure it is tight and secure. Insure the SxS is turned off, collect the key, check all doors, rear bed and tail gate to insure they are locked in place. Recheck the straps a final time.

Now you will feel safe and insure your new SxS makes it home save and sound.

View attachment 97

My problem with strapping to the frame, as illustrated, is when driving over rough terrain with SxS, the body, and even the tires will move a few inches in every direction of the force of the rockin and rollin. It has hit and scratched parts of the truck bed, (CM flat bed) and other items I was hauling as well.
The time I strapped all 4 wheels and one strap under the chassis around substantial metal, in the middle, that also strapped down my ramps, there was absolutely no movement. I parked it 1" from the headache rack. When we finished our round trip from Houston to Rawlins, WY, including off-road to our hunt and camp area, there was no evidence of the SxS metal contacting any part of the truck.
Are there others who have recorded their experiences with strapping? Lead me to their posts.
The idea came to me when I noticed wreckers hauling cars on flatbeds use special straps around tires, without any straps to metal parts under the towed cars.

 

[BigOL3]

My problem with strapping to the frame, as illustrated, is when driving over rough terrain with SxS, the body, and even the tires will move a few inches in every direction of the force of the rockin and rollin. It has hit and scratched parts of the truck bed, (CM flat bed) and other items I was hauling as well.
The time I strapped all 4 wheels and one strap under the chassis around substantial metal, in the middle, that also strapped down my ramps, there was absolutely no movement. I parked it 1" from the headache rack. When we finished our round trip from Houston to Rawlins, WY, including off-road to our hunt and camp area, there was no evidence of the SxS metal contacting any part of the truck.
Are there others who have recorded their experiences with strapping? Lead me to their posts.
The idea came to me when I noticed wreckers hauling cars on flatbeds use special straps around tires, without any straps to metal parts under the towed cars.

I use 4 straps hooked to the lowest points on the FRAME, thereby avoiding compressing the suspension.

 

[Ericthered]

The whole idea of strapping it down is to negate the jumping around or shifting. That is why I still strap mine thru the inside floor area and tighten till suspension is firmly snug. If you look at semi's strapping they pull heavy loads from angles to prevent shifting, and pull her down tight. I have yet to have any issues and it cost $12 for a 10K strap at Home Depot.

 

[Geeseman]

I invested in the “cargo buckle.” I bought 6 of them and was the best investment. Takes me a total of 2 minutes to strap down.

 

[tapaugh]

I strap at the a arms instead of the front bumper and rear cage. No suspension movement to loosen straps that way. Take notice where rollback wrecker drivers put their chains, same reasoning.

Yep, I have to agree. I had been using the suggested tie down points that's in the P700 user manual. Every time I towed I would experience one or more straps loosening up. Now I connect my straps as close to the center of each wheel as is possible. No more loose straps and I have a much better connection to the trailer.

 

[livefromthetree]

I got my wheel tie downs back on the trailer just in time to tow it across the country a few times.

 

[CID]

The whole idea of strapping it down is to negate the jumping around or shifting. That is why I still strap mine thru the inside floor area and tighten till suspension is firmly snug. If you look at semi's strapping they pull heavy loads from angles to prevent shifting, and pull her down tight. I have yet to have any issues and it cost $12 for a 10K strap at Home Depot.

The thing is - semi loads aren't suspended, it's possible to pull 'er down tight. We used to strap the rear bumpers on our snowmobiles as tight as we could get them, but no matter how tight we got them, we'd still hit G-loads that would compress the suspension even further. That resulted in the sled bouncing back HARD against the straps. Once we realized that was happening, we starting strapping the track tight to the trailer which let the suspension work eliminating the bounce back against the straps.

I do the same with my dirt bikes on the rear, strapping the wheel to the ramp and letting the suspension work. I still have to pull the forks down tight though.

The forks are strapped tight against a block, the rear is free to work. You can see the bungee cords on the tire down straps acting as snubbers in case the straps loosen. I always double strap the front.

Both front and rear tires are fastened with these -