Texas Tough Talon X to R long travel kit ?

[Dug2024]

Anyone have any real world experience with the TTC long travel kit?
I really would like to go this route but don't want to pay 3k for a bunch of squeaks! The Hiem joints are a concern, looks like 18 total Hiem joints on this kit. We do mostly trail riding with usually 40 to 80 miles in a day and have had Hiems start squeaking halfway through the day on our previous radius rods...

 

[Admin]

 

[Jason W]

Hiems fakin squeek, even the Teflon coated, the also wear fast in sandy, especially coal mine areas, the old coal dust eats heims

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I'm pretty sure for that kind of money you could swap your suspension over to R style and avoid the heims all together. Trailing arms and hubs are the only difference out back and the front is all the same mounting points. You may have to purchase rear hubs from Honda but all the rest of the parts should be available used on Ebay and FB.

 

[Dug2024]

I'm pretty sure for that kind of money you could swap your suspension over to R style and avoid the heims all together. Trailing arms and hubs are the only difference out back and the front is all the same mounting points. You may have to purchase rear hubs from Honda but all the rest of the parts should be available used on Ebay and

Definitely a viable option.

 

[Hello_Darkness]

I'm pretty sure for that kind of money you could swap your suspension over to R style and avoid the heims all together. Trailing arms and hubs are the only difference out back and the front is all the same mounting points. You may have to purchase rear hubs from Honda but all the rest of the parts should be available used on Ebay and FB.

You also need brake lines, upper 4 link bars, radius rods, shocks and axles.

Same for front

Shocks alone are crazy

 

[Vondy]

I agree with others. I would probably build my own with stock R parts and upgraded a-arms, radius rods, and axles. It takes a lot mor parts than you think once you start really diving into it.

 

[Dankathy]

Don't know anything about the "ttc long travel" vs a factory r, I think I'd just sell the x and buy a r.

 

[CID]

Don't know anything about the "ttc long travel" vs a factory r, I think I'd just sell the x and buy a r.

#metoo

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Another option would be the Raceco X/R suspension setup. My engine builder has the kit on his 4 seat X model and it's pretty freaking nice!

LTR/LTX/RTR/RTX SUSPENSION RACE KITS (EMAIL FOR PRICING AND AVAILABILITY ) — Raceco-usa

MUST EMAIL TO ORDER AND FOR PRICING AT [email protected] -LTR/LTX 74-76” TRACK WIDTH -RTR/RTX 68-70” TRACK WIDTH -(4) CHROMOLY TUBULAR A-ARMS -(2) CHROMOLY BOXED TRAILING ARMS -(4) 300m AXLE SHAFTS (SHAFTS ONLY) -(2) 6061 T6 SWAY BAR LINKS - -3 AN STAINLESS BRAIDED BRAKELINES - CHROMOL

www.raceco-usa.com

 

[Dug2024]

You also need brake lines, upper 4 link bars, radius rods, shocks and axles.

Same for front

Shocks alone are crazy

Are the shock mounts different on the front upper control arms? What stops you from using the X shock with the R front control arms?

 

[Dug2024]

Another option would be the Raceco X/R suspension setup. My engine builder has the kit on his 4 seat X model and it's pretty freaking nice!

LTR/LTX/RTR/RTX SUSPENSION RACE KITS (EMAIL FOR PRICING AND AVAILABILITY ) — Raceco-usa

MUST EMAIL TO ORDER AND FOR PRICING AT [email protected] -LTR/LTX 74-76” TRACK WIDTH -RTR/RTX 68-70” TRACK WIDTH -(4) CHROMOLY TUBULAR A-ARMS -(2) CHROMOLY BOXED TRAILING ARMS -(4) 300m AXLE SHAFTS (SHAFTS ONLY) -(2) 6061 T6 SWAY BAR LINKS - -3 AN STAINLESS BRAIDED BRAKELINES - CHROMOL

www.raceco-usa.com

That's nice !

 

[Dug2024]

Don't know anything about the "ttc long travel" vs a factory r, I think I'd just sell the x and buy a r.

The R4 is in the back of my mind.. lol, but this one is paid for and already has a ton of upgrades... starting over from stock would suck.

 

[CID]

Are the shock mounts different on the front upper control arms? What stops you from using the X shock with the R front control arms?

The X has about 15% less suspension travel and the shock travel and lengths reflect that. They might 'fit' but you won't get R travel. And they'll probably be over leveraged by the longer A-arms and radius rods.

 

[Hello_Darkness]

Are the shock mounts different on the front upper control arms? What stops you from using the X shock with the R front control arms?

You can but you won't get the same travel and the shaft is larger as well.

 

[CID]

The R4 is in the back of my mind.. lol, but this one is paid for and already has a ton of upgrades... starting over from stock would suck.

Move those upgrades over to the new R, putting the stock R stuff on the X as needed. Most of it is interchangeable except the suspension parts.

 

[Scrappapotamus]

Move those upgrades over to the new R, putting the stock R stuff on the X as needed. Most of it is interchangeable except the suspension parts.

I'm taking my X out this weekend and beat on it and make an opinion based on my experience. Playing around with the X in small spaces and taking it for a brisk road run gives me reason for pause. It definitely rides different than an R. Seems to POGO at bit in the rear. It definitely rotates quick and seems to be less stable at speed through corners. It had issues early on regarding wheel stagger, tires and alignment. Straight road to 75 is now rock solid, but changing direction whether slight or more input seems to causes the rear end start to step out quick. At slower speeds steering and throttle manipulation has it backing into corners beautifully, but with speed you better be up on the wheel. Is there truth to my experience? I've spoken with others in the industry regarding attempting to make the X more confidence aspiring. Both of the Rs are well balanced and predictable at speed. I talked to Jamie at RACECO about the RACECO kit mentioned above. More money than I would want to throw at it. It definitely turns quicker, but the wheelbase and track and not having the additional rear trailing arm makes the R and X totally different vehicles. Who knows, maybe the handling works great in a point and squirt situation? I will report back after this weekend

 

[CID]

@Scrappapotamus
"Who knows, maybe the handling works great in a point and squirt situation?"

Maybe that slightly shorter wheelbase and 4.4" narrower stance has a much bigger effect on driving characteristics than some of us thought. I've always respected Japanese engineering and the differences between the two may be more intentional than first glance.

I'll be curious to hear what your feedback is, since you have both an X and an R.

Note that the new generation X is a completely different animal that the first gen - I rode in, and drove a '23 X2 LV and it rode NOTICEABLY better than my '21 R2 non LV - there was no comparison. Side note - he was running 32's to my 30's and also wider which would make up some of that difference.

 

[Mudwisel]

Hiems fakin squeek, even the Teflon coated, the also wear fast in sandy, especially coal mine areas, the old coal dust eats heims

Same reason I don't like them

 

[Jason W]

Same reason I don't like them

Greaseable johny joints last 50 times longer, and are rebuildable, to me coming as from jeep world, heims are a great way to cheap out

 

[Remington]

My 21’X with Snuff Tune, shock revalving, arms and radius rods and SATV PS upgrade makes it a great machine in speed, handling in corners at speed and trails. Ive drivin an R. Nice rig and completely different as its designed for.
That said, mine is pd for and Im happy with my set up. Shut the Fuc up a Canned Ham Maverick RS that was talking smack about my X. Snuff tune ripped him apart and he broke an Arm today.