Just heard a rumor that Honda is having a recall on over 32K 2019 - 20 - 21 Side X Sides. Mostly Talons. Is there any truth to this and curious as to reason. Could this be the reason we are not seeing any 2022 Talon 1000 - 4 ? 😳
Hondasxs
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You don't know what it is for?
There are several recalls out there.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
There are several recalls out there.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Hondasxs
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RECALL - Intake Bolt Recall for Honda Talon 1000 (19-21)
Does anyone know what this is about? Campaign Description QA: '19-'21 SXS10S2/4 INTAKE BOLT MFR Campaign ID: KN2
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Looking for details that others may have experienced. Buddy has 2021 Talon X2 with 1200 miles. Went on an easy ride and after about 15 miles the Cap off the U-Joint on the front propeller shaft came off. It "banged" all the way home. After calling the dealer, found out that they have replaced 3 shafts in the past month. All 3 were covered by Honda. 2 were still under 12 mos. warranty. The 3rd was not under warranty but Honda paid the bill anyway. One of the machines had issue is owned by an older couple that only have 300 miles on it and drive on gravel roads. Dealer said it looks like Honda may be issuing a recall or at least accepting responsibility for the claim. Curious if others have had similar issue(s)?
H
hondabob
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Its a known problem. The bearing caps are loose on some so they will turn and spit out the C-clip allowing the bearing cap to fall out. I marked the bearing caps on my 2020 Talon and still ok at 6,000 miles. My 2019 Talon had the drive shaft U-joint wear out at around 20,000 miles. Both warranty drive shafts failed in less then 3,000 miles. I got the 4th drive shaft bearing caps spot welded. I do carry a sawzall with a 9 inch blade so I can cut the drive shaft in half and pull the drive shaft off the sub trans. It would suck to half to drive it a long way with the banging. There is room to cut the drive shaft through the skid plate hole for the coolant drain bolts.
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HondaTech
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Ive replaced close to a dozen so far, 3 of them on one machine. Honda is only replacing them if the cap falls out.
Its the same part # for 2022 models as well, so they never learned their lesson.
My GM has found a guy making complete new shafts with different joints but i cant remember who they are.
Adam490
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A Spot Weld seems like a simple and easy way to ensure the replacement doesn't fall apart. I don't understand why Honda isn't doing that on all the repairs. It would avoid having to cover a 2nd, 3rd or 4th claim on the same machine.......
Neohio
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You have never dealt with an Engineering department of a big company have you?
It isn't a simple "tack weld" on the cup.
It could require testing for harmonic vibrations due to possibly being out of balance.
What happens to the base material and it's longevity when the heat from a weld is applied to it.
At the bare minimum, they should be doing a supplier audit to identify whether it is a design or manufacturing issue.
My previous employer needed 15-25 signatures on an ECRN/ECO (Engineering Change Release Notice/Engineering Change Order) before we could revise a drawing. And we were a simple pipe fitting manufacturer.
I can only imagine the amount of time Honda would have to dedicate to this to revise the assembly.
There is a pretty good chance these warranty claims have to hit a specific number($$) before Engineering gets involved. And only after a higher up in a different department submits the paperwork to them to investigate.
I was with Erin this last weekend. Great dude! The shaft is very nice looking! He still has stock of them but is out of u-joints. I believe he had a problem with a run of u-joints from the factory. He told me I could buy the shaft and then order my own u-joints if I wanted one right now.
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SLOWPOKE693
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That's alot of money to spend on a new shaft when 8 tack welds and a brand new shaft from Honda will do just as good a job. I don't know of a single person that has blown up a driveshaft because of anything other than it spitting out caps. Billet yolks are way overkill....
H
hondabob
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If the bearing cup has a good press fit the driveshaft should last for 25,000 to 50,000 miles. My dealer let me get my latest driveshaft for my 2019 Talon spot welded before they installed it. My 2020 is still ok at 6,000 miles. Out of around 60 of the Talons here I only now of 3 that have failed. My buddy has a 2021 and it lost a bearing cup at less then 500 miles. Most of the guys have them marked so if the cup turns they know it will fail and get it replaced or spot welded.
Red500
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I heard they where recalling all the red ones because they where just way too fast.
SLOWPOKE693
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F
fartsalot
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SLOWPOKE693
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I will say this...... If dude made an aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft to go with that kit I'd be intrested in it.
I'd also be intrested in a kit that completely removed the I4wd clutch housing and made the car full time AWD.....
Because racecar
I'd also be intrested in a kit that completely removed the I4wd clutch housing and made the car full time AWD.....
Because racecar
For those of you following this, I thought I'd provide an update. After taking it to the shop, Honda agreed to replace the drive shaft but the WILL NOT pay for labor or additional seals ($60) they recommend replacing. Ride-Now (should be called Rape-Me-Now) wants an additional $1,602 to install the shaft & Seals.
Looks like we're going to wait 2 weeks for Honda to ship the shaft, apply 8 spot welds and tear into the machine. All the YouTube videos I've seen show it being replaced from the driver side. Does anyone know of this can be done on the passenger side? Looking at upgrade to a larger tank and thought I'd it can be done at the same time, why not???
Neohio
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Is your friends machine still under factory warranty? Or was the offer to pay for the shaft a goodwill thing by Honda?
CID
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Some tips (?). Note that I’ve never done any of this.
1. I think @HondaTech drops the skid and removes them out the bottom, no interior dismantling needed.
2. I’m pretty sure this is right - Someone else suggested removing the 3 bolts holding the clutch assembly (?) to the front diff is easier than screwing with that infernal C clip with the shaft in the buggy. This info is somewhere in the link in my sig.
3. Diff doesn’t have to be removed, just pulled forward, a ratchet strap will help. This might also be in my sig link.
4. If I ever unknowingly post misinformation, feel free to yank a knot in my tail. 😊
1. I think @HondaTech drops the skid and removes them out the bottom, no interior dismantling needed.
2. I’m pretty sure this is right - Someone else suggested removing the 3 bolts holding the clutch assembly (?) to the front diff is easier than screwing with that infernal C clip with the shaft in the buggy. This info is somewhere in the link in my sig.
3. Diff doesn’t have to be removed, just pulled forward, a ratchet strap will help. This might also be in my sig link.
4. If I ever unknowingly post misinformation, feel free to yank a knot in my tail. 😊
CID
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Oh, and I’m pretty sure I have a recall sitting on my desk about caliper bolts coming loose? 🤔
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