P1000 SuperATV Ball Joint Help...Too big? UPDATE 8-26-22--Not going well...

[thirdparty]

UPDATE 8/26/2022:

So, when I installed these A-Arms, I had problems that I attributed to me not knowing how to install and the fact that the instructions that come with them do not mention in any detail the new hardware or length of the upper ball joint bolt shaft.

Fast forward to February 2022 to a ride in the desert and the whole front A-arm assembly has about 1-1.5 in of play when you hit bumps. Meaning that normal driving on flat ground, no looseness or rattling is noticeable until you hit a bump then it feels like the whole front end is coming apart.

Fast forward to this weekend, when I finally have a chance to "snug up" the castle nuts (OEM) or, what I did, replace them with the nylok nuts that came with the kit.

Well, I did that and nothing changed-still the same play. The upper ball joint seems to be the problem (see pics below comparing the length of ball joint bolt shaft).

What am I missing here? Why did I pay hundreds more for the chrome moly SATV ball joints if they don't fit or allow you to tighten the knuckle adequately? I should have just used the OEM joints. Now, I'm stuck with neither that work and the machine is down.

This is really frustrating because SATV and the A-arms get great reviews.

Original:

I bought the new SATV A Arms with their pressed in ball joints to speed up install. The lower ball joints went on fine.

But, the uppers seem to be way too long so that the castle will go way past the cotter pin hole. Here's a pic of how long the upper ball joint is and also compared to the OEM.

How is this supposed to work? I can't tighten it enough to put any pressure on the joint and the cotter pin hole is way too far away from the castle nut. The instructions do not tell you what you use the nylon nuts for.

Pretty frustrating.

 

[Admin]

 

[TripleB]

Use the washer and the nylon lock nut, instead of the castle nuts. I'm currently using the washer and nut from a superatv ball joint, on 1 of my OEM ball joints. It's a long story of why I'm doing that but I've been running it that way for a year now and no issues.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I had the same issue with my Texas Tough Customs kit. I used washers under the castle nut to space it down to where the pin could install correctly.

 

[trigger]

I had the same issue with my Texas Tough Customs kit. I used washers under the castle nut to space it down to where the pin could install correctly.

Had to do the same when I installed OutKast A arms. Been running that way a couple yrs now.

 

[ToddACimer]

From the factory the ball joint sits a bit too deep in the knuckle. I'd add the washer above the castle nut and use the cotter pin as intended. I also added a castle nut and cotter pin to my tie rods as I've found them loose

 

[thirdparty]

So, I guess you use the nylock nut with the washer. Tthat makes sense, but I didn't want to replace the castle nut and cotter pin because it's such an important connection.

I guess you can still put a cotter pin above the nylock as well. Is that what people are doing?

 

[thirdparty]

Second question...

On the first side, when I tried to install the original castle nut, it was kind of bent from me banging the ball joint out. I figured that out because it was spinning the ball joint--in other words, the nut was spinning the bolt part of the joint. I guess the nylock nut won't spin it around.

I'll get a chance to work on it later.

 

[TripleB]

Second question...

On the first side, when I tried to install the original castle nut, it was kind of bent from me banging the ball joint out. I figured that out because it was spinning the ball joint--in other words, the nut was spinning the bolt part of the joint. I guess the nylock nut won't spin it around.

I'll get a chance to work on it later.

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/?tag=sxsweb24-20

Invest in one of these for the future. That way you won't damage your threads in the future.

 

[HondaTech]

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/?tag=sxsweb24-20

Invest in one of these for the future. That way you won't damage your threads in the future.

Just an FYI even with this tool or the Honda special tool, ive mashed threads. Be sure to use a nut that isn't the one you plan to install back on the balljoint afterwards.

 

[thirdparty]

I called into SATV for some technical help. On the nylock nut/washer issue, they are to replace the castle nuts on upper and lower ball joints, so that's what I did. Also, when you are installing them, the nylon thread will grab the ball joint thread and spin it so it won't go anywhere. I called back and asked about this and they indicated there was some way to capture it from the top to allow for tightening, but I just lowered the arm until it was binding the ball joint enough for me to tighten.

 

[SuperATV]

Use the washer and the nylon lock nut, instead of the castle nuts. I'm currently using the washer and nut from a superatv ball joint, on 1 of my OEM ball joints. It's a long story of why I'm doing that but I've been running it that way for a year now and no issues.

This^^^

I called into SATV for some technical help. On the nylock nut/washer issue, they are to replace the castle nuts on upper and lower ball joints, so that's what I did. Also, when you are installing them, the nylon thread will grab the ball joint thread and spin it so it won't go anywhere. I called back and asked about this and they indicated there was some way to capture it from the top to allow for tightening, but I just lowered the arm until it was binding the ball joint enough for me to tighten.

That's perfect. We're moving to nylock nuts now and getting away from castle nuts and cotter pins. You're ready to rock. Sorry for the confusion there. We probably need to get that in the instructions if they aren't already in there.

 

[CID]

This^^^


That's perfect. We're moving to nylock nuts now and getting away from castle nuts and cotter pins. You're ready to rock. Sorry for the confusion there. We probably need to get that in the instructions if they aren't already in there.

Instructions? we don't need no steenkin' 'structions.

 

[thirdparty]

This^^^


That's perfect. We're moving to nylock nuts now and getting away from castle nuts and cotter pins. You're ready to rock. Sorry for the confusion there. We probably need to get that in the instructions if they aren't already in there.

There is a short mention of the "other hardware" to be installed, but not enough detail to really know what they nylocks were for exactly. I was hesitant to use them on the upper/lower ball joints because the SATV ball joints have holes for cotter pins--so I thought those were for castle nuts.

What is the reason for going to nylocks and washers? I also put a cotter pin above the nylock for good measure.

 

[SuperATV]

There is a short mention of the "other hardware" to be installed, but not enough detail to really know what they nylocks were for exactly. I was hesitant to use them on the upper/lower ball joints because the SATV ball joints have holes for cotter pins--so I thought those were for castle nuts.

What is the reason for going to nylocks and washers? I also put a cotter pin above the nylock for good measure.

They're just better. Better quality. And it helps to standardize everything across the board.

 

[thirdparty]

They're just better. Better quality. And it helps to standardize everything across the board.

Update in OP.