P1000 Superatv 1.5" A arms and 30's P1000-5

[JoeyL]

Thanks for all the info Rick. Good to know.

The arms came in today so I’ll try to get them all put on this weekend.

You think the SATV straps would be worth it to keep them from going to full droop?

I’m trying get some good clearance but I want to keep the center of gravity low so I don’t really want to go the portal route. At least not yet. I’ll see how it does like this and go from there.

 

[Admin]

 

[JTW]

JoeyL

Just to let you know, installing the SATV 1.5" rear A-arms does over extend your stock axles at maximum extension. They will clang, but mine haven't broken yet in almost two years. When they do I'll replace them with their heavy duty ones. The A-arms are a very good upgrade. If you don't change your gearing with the 30" tires you might want to run it in low range on anything but level ground to make your trans last longer. I did the 15% 4" portals (SATV) which will allow you to run up to 32" tires (really 31.5"). I went with 30" (really 29.5") to give a little gear reduction over stock setup. With the portal hubs you also get a upgrade in braking power as it comes with 10" rotors over the stock 8" ones. The caliper fit on mine need some modifications to make it right, but well worth the time, trouble, and money to get the added height, gear reduction, and braking power. And yes with stock rims you'll need 1.5" wheel spacers. Does put a little more strain on you wheel bearings, but mine haven given me trouble. It does make it wider, and stabler too. Also the portal hub require a little more maintenance (not really that big a deal).

The rear SATV a arms shouldn’t over extend the axles..something doesn’t sound right.

 

[JoeyL]

The rear SATV a arms shouldn’t over extend the axles..something doesn’t sound right.

I’ll let you guys know how it goes. I’m gonna start today on the front and try to finish installing all the a arms by tomorrow



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[Pilotadam]

I’ll let you guys know how it goes. I’m gonna start today on the front and try to finish installing all the a arms by tomorrow

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The fronts aren't too bad once you get the OEM cotter pin out.

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[JoeyL]

The fronts aren't too bad once you get the OEM cotter pin out.

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I kept thinking how hard can it be to remove a cotter pin?
Now I understand.
Not sure how they get it in there like that.




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[JoeyL]

Not too bad to get them out.
One old screwdriver sacrificed.
Didn’t even cuss at it too much. It’s still early though




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[Pilotadam]

Not too bad to get them out.
One old screwdriver sacrificed.
Didn’t even cuss at it too much. It’s still early though




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When I out the new ones in they were not as pretty, but they will keep the bolt from coming out. The rest of the job is pretty easy just time consuming.

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[Cuoutdoors]

The rear SATV a arms shouldn’t over extend the axles..something doesn’t sound right.

Agreed. Mine are not over extended and never make noise.

 

[Rick53]

The rear SATV a arms shouldn’t over extend the axles..something doesn’t sound right.

The rear SATV a arms shouldn’t over extend the axles..something doesn’t sound right.

You must be lucky, or have changed your stock axles out. I found it, I believe on their question and answer page. They admit to it in one of the answers. You can also give them a call, but one of their tech guys isn't too sharp. They also don't tell you that their portal hub require the gear oil changed every 100 miles after brake in. I still would have bought them, but it would have been nice to know going in. I installed limiting straps to solve the problem for now, but will be removing then when I replacing the axles.

 

[Rick53]

Thanks for all the info Rick. Good to know.

The arms came in today so I’ll try to get them all put on this weekend.

You think the SATV straps would be worth it to keep them from going to full droop?

I’m trying get some good clearance but I want to keep the center of gravity low so I don’t really want to go the portal route. At least not yet. I’ll see how it does like this and go from there.

JoeyL
Yes the straps will fix it, but will limit your overall travel. I plan on removing my straps when I replace the stock axles. You can use a angle level from Harbor Freight (5 bucks) to align the wheels if you don't have access to alignment tools. Their info on setting the axle up was way off with my axles. Do make sure you square the back ones to the frame first.
The portals add roughly 50 pounds at each corner at wheel height, so center of gravity may even be lowered. I have the 1 1/2" wheel spaces on mine also and with the total overall width (11") added it handles pretty flat and climbs like a spider. It is a big expense, but when you're done it will be in a totally different class then the stock machine.
Good luck with you project and always be safe (jack stands). The A-arms do make a lot of difference, you'll love them. Do get the straps (18"), you can get ones just as good as SATV's for around 15 bucks less on Amazon with free delivery.

 

[JoeyL]

Project dead in the water.
The loaner ball joint press from oreily didn’t have a sleeve that would work on the lowers. Will have to take them to a local shop to get the ball joints swapped.



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[Rick53]

JoeL
Sorry to hear that, it's always a let down when things like that happen. I've used large sockets and even cut pieces of large pipe to press them in and out when I didn't have the right sleeve. Hope the local shop doesn't rape you on the price of the job.

 

[JoeyL]

Got the rears done!

Much easier than the front.
Angle finder made it real easy. Just matched the stock measurement at full extension. Was about 2 deg.

The passenger side lower didn’t fit real well. Took some persuasion to get it to fit on the frame and in the hub. All 3 others fit real well. This one must have slipped past QC at SATV.




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[Superthrill]

Which tires are you running and did you need to do the repairs, or was that just to help with clearance?

Sorry one more question can you tell a loss in any power from that size tire?

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I run an old set of Fuel Grippers before they changed molds. Yes i can tell a power loss in the real technical sections, but love the clearance. All my SATV arms started when i trashed the front A Arms coming down the boulder field below WidowMaker on stock tires.

 

[JoeyL]

Build update:
Still stalled...
Turned out that there was an issue getting the ball joints swapped over. The shop I took them to (3P Off Road, Tomball, TX) said that the A Arms were galling the ball joints when they tried to press them in. I don’t have all the info on what happened except the shop told me there was a .004” size difference in the ball joints and a arms. I’m not positive if the arms were out of spec or if the ball joints were the problem (maybe a new issue on the 20 models W these arms?). I will get the full story and update when I pick them up later this week.
The shop callled SATV about the problem and SATV is sending a set of their ball joints which is supposed to resolve the issue.

So far it’s been a good experience w 3P. Looks like they are trying to do things right.

I’ll update again when I know more.


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[Rick53]

JoeyL
Man, you can't catch a break. Sounds like your shop is trying to take care of you (let's hope so). There are a lot of pretend mechanics out there and you have to be careful. The mechanic at the dealership I've taken mine to for recalls didn't even know what a portal hub was (scary). I didn't have any galling issues with the ball joints on my 2018, but don't know the circumstances. Good luck and hopefully you'll be out in your ride soon.

 

[JoeyL]

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[JoeyL]

Got them installed finally.
Apparently the guys at that shop aren’t real good. One of my upper ball joints came back w the stud a little mushed. I was able to straighten the threads out w a file and get it back together. Lesson learned.
He did recommend a shop that dealt only w Honda’s so that will be my next try for anything I don’t want to do myself.
Still have to adjust camber and toe. Camber in the back is really off. Matching the stock hub angle didn’t work out too good. Fronts came out closer.
So far I couldn’t get it to rub but the biggest thing I have to drive over is the curb on top of a storm drain.




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[Rick53]

JoeyL
Yeah, their setup specs are way off. Also, if you're not going to be doing a bunch of high speed cornering (not to safe in something with that high center of mass) I'd set your camber at from 1/2 degree negative to 1/2 degree positive. Toe-in is good at around 1/8" front, rear from square to 1/8" toe-in. For setting the toe, you can use a sliding yardage stick. All settings are with the vehicle at rest (roll it back and forth a few times after making adjustments to let it settle). These setting will give you good handling and tire life. The 2 degree negative is good for the guys racing, for high speed cornering, other than that it's a waste of tires. Remember most of the time you are going straight, not cornering. Do make sure to square up the rear tires to the frame or your ride will crab a bit and make turning tighter in one direction then the other.
Sorry the guys at you shop didn't do the job right, but at least you were able to repair it. That's why I do everything I can myself. Even to the point of buying a tool or piece of equipment that may only be used by me once. Most of the time it saves me money in the long run.
We all have different strong points, and I don't know your knowledge or abilities so don't think I'm talking down to you, just looking to help a guy out. Have fun, and be safe.

 

[russknight]

I took mine to a tire shop here and had it machine aligned and all four tires balanced. It's as near perfect as it can be. Wear pattern on front tires is dead center..