I ordered them together and they were not installed. The installation on the arms is not the issue, it was the depth that they are seating into the hub. They have held up fine so far but I still think its a poor design. I will definitely go with a different brand if I need to replace them.Marty94
I thought I had read on SATV web site that if you purchased a arms and new ball joints
They would install them free of charge .
Did I miss read something or did you purchase your ball joints separately?
Thanks for the info, I will keep that in mind .I ordered them together and they were not installed. The installation on the arms is not the issue, it was the depth that they are seating into the hub. They have held up fine so far but I still think its a poor design. I will definitely go with a different brand if I need to replace them.
I'm having the same issue with the satv lower ball joint. I did not use the washer with the nut and I could barely set the cotter pin. I have a considerable gab between the boot of the ball joint and spindle. It doesn't look right to me. I sent satv an email to see what they say.I bought my ball joints separately but like cattrell said my issue was the depth that they went into the hub. But they have held up well so far
That looks like the upper ball joint.
I bought a set just to have on hand. That old design will work. I've got 1 lower installed on my 3 seater and it's doing fine.Been trying to figure out what is going on, and it seems the SATV lower Ball joints are 9mm longer than the stock Honda ones. I guess I am at a stopping point till I get ahold of SATV Monday. The uppers seem to be with in 1mm of the stock length. Just rough reference. View attachment 171822View attachment 171823View attachment 171824
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I ended up returning them and running stock joints. It wouldn't work on my ride. I currently have 12in rimsI bought a set just to have on hand. That old design will work. I've got 1 lower installed on my 3 seater and it's doing fine.
I've only bought OEM since I bought the old superatv design. I got close to 8000 miles out of the OEM before I changed a-arms on my 5 seater. The only reason I used the 1 superatv lower I had was because I bent a lower a-arm and the used a-arm I had, had a bad ball joint. I figured since I already had a set of the old design on hand, I would use it.I ended up returning them and running stock joints. It wouldn't work on my ride. I currently have 12in rims
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What is the reasoning behind these? Are they needed if I only have the high clearance a-arms?Looks great! I just finished mine yesterday I haven’t decided if I’m going to put the steering stops in or not.
Im sure my words wont be up to par on this lolWhat is the reasoning behind these? Are they needed if I only have the high clearance a-arms?
Really depends on wheels, tires, tie rods, brake line routing and shock/spring combo. I took mine out and I don't regret it.What is the reasoning behind these? Are they needed if I only have the high clearance a-arms?
I ran the stops the first 6 months after I put on forward arched arms and never had a issue other than a crappy turning radius. I let everyone talk me into taking them out. The next month I broke 4 front axles, broke a tie rod and ripped 2 stainless steel front brake lines. I don't pay enough attention to how deep I'm turning when I'm in a bad spot so I put them back in.What is the reasoning behind these? Are they needed if I only have the high clearance a-arms?