P1000m5 Strapping the 4x4 to a trailer

BWAF

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I love that method and want to do it but have commitment issues to exactly where I am going to part the Honda on the trailer lol... I keep trying a little forward, and little back just need to pick a spot and go..:confused:
I don't half to worry about it I made this tilt bed for my zero turn mower. Slight modifications to the front Honda fits right on B2a6adbad9cb5728c55024229961a5ba

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Remington

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But I still have thought about the tire straps

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Looks to me that you may have enough room to back up a little it to mount the brackets at the front. If that’s too far back, you can leave it the way it is and for sure mount some on the back for added security. @PistonHonda has a set up very similar as you and did that and a lot of worries went away while traveling.
 
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Ragnar406

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If this helps...depending on the type of trailer you have you want to distribute the weight of your load at least to keep the load from bucking your truck. That being said...some unsolicited advice, I would hook up the trailer to your truck and pull your pioneer forward and back to see where it’s most evenly distributed on your trailer with the truck then mark your brackets to install. If you have already done this or know how, than Cary on my friend. :)

@Remington - No, good advice. I have a 14' tandem axel trailer - I think part of my issue is when I got the trailer under a load it would vibrate a little between 50 and 60mph. Having only trailered a couple of time previously I thought it might be how I had the Honda positioned on the trailer.. so I tried moving a little forward, a little back, I upgraded the straps to Mac's incase it needed to be secured.
I ended up taking back the trailer to the dealer (I was going to ask their suggestion) they got to looking at and said it was a bent spindle (that they fixed for free).
Now a sometimes still get a little vibration (to me it is like a wheel might not be balanced correctly) in the same range but that defaults me back into shifting the load again... this vibration is not as consistent and definitely not as noticeable. I am taking my trailer back in prior to Takeover so that I can get them to check it over/help find a potential short with the brakes as I am not getting feedback (dash gain) when they are applied.

now I try and position my rear tires where they are just over the back tires of the trailer. not sure how noticeable in pic below (and it may be a little back here
IMG 0618
 
BWAF

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Looks to me that you may have enough room to back up a little it to mount the brackets at the front. If that’s too far back, you can leave it the way it is and for sure mount some on the back for added security. @PistonHonda has a set up very similar as you and did that and a lot of worries went away while traveling.
If I back up or have my cooler full on the back my bed doesn't tilt I thought about just putting the blocks behind the front tires and going to that front bar and then I have a strap through a d-ring on rear to the bed of the trailer I guess I could put those blocks on the rear tires and then up front I hook my Winch just for backup it's not tight

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If I back up or have my cooler full on the back my bed doesn't tilt I thought about just putting the blocks behind the front tires and going to that front bar and then I have a strap through a d-ring on rear to the bed of the trailer I guess I could put those blocks on the rear tires and then up front I hook my Winch just for backup it's not tight

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Yup then I would just do the back brackets. The strap for these have special side clips for the brackets not hooks, so just a hlaf bracket won’t work. Just do them o the back and secure another way for the front and you’ll be good.
 
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Remington

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If I back up or have my cooler full on the back my bed doesn't tilt I thought about just putting the blocks behind the front tires and going to that front bar and then I have a strap through a d-ring on rear to the bed of the trailer I guess I could put those blocks on the rear tires and then up front I hook my Winch just for backup it's not tight

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Hay, that’s a nice trailer! You’ll have a bit of vibration at certain speeds that’s normal being that tires on a trailer like yours and mine are not balanced. Like I said before, just fined the balance point and mount the brackets and you’ll have it as best you can. As for your breaks, possible wiring issue, but most likely could also be a break adjustment issue as well. If you have ever adjusted a “drum” style break, that’s pretty much what they are mechanically just electric than hydraulic. You adjust them the same way. Hope this helps.
 
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Hay, that’s a nice trailer! You’ll have a bit of vibration at certain speeds that’s normal being that tires on a trailer like yours and mine are not balanced. Like I said before, just fined the balance point and mount the brackets and you’ll have it as best you can. As for your breaks, possible wiring issue, but most likely could also be a break adjustment issue as well. If you have ever adjusted a “drum” style break, that’s pretty much what they are mechanically just electric than hydraulic. You adjust them the same way. Hope this helps.
No vibration but I think the tongue weight is a little light sometimes at 70-75 you'll get a little bit of Wiggle wagon going and the axle I use doesn't have brakes I pull it with a 3/4 ton pretty good.

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Ragnar406

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Hay, that’s a nice trailer! You’ll have a bit of vibration at certain speeds that’s normal being that tires on a trailer like yours and mine are not balanced. Like I said before, just fined the balance point and mount the brackets and you’ll have it as best you can. As for your breaks, possible wiring issue, but most likely could also be a break adjustment issue as well. If you have ever adjusted a “drum” style break, that’s pretty much what they are mechanically just electric than hydraulic. You adjust them the same way. Hope this helps.
That does, for the breaks - if I manually activate them like to adjust gain I get a trailer disconnected message in the truck. Everything else continues to work - I will give that a try this weekend. suppose to be self adjusting but it will not hurt to pull and take a look at.
 
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BWAF

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Was he talking to me or you @ Ragnar406

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Ragnar406

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Was he talking to me or you @ Ragnar406

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@Remington replied to your message but it seemed like he was answering some of my questions lol - I mentioned breaks needing checking on my trailer and had been posting about vibration.
 
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That does, for the breaks - if I manually activate them like to adjust gain I get a trailer disconnected message in the truck. Everything else continues to work - I will give that a try this weekend. suppose to be self adjusting but it will not hurt to pull and take a look at.
Yup, that’s a working issue or your control in the truck. If you used a tuner on your truck l, on like my 08’ superduty with a time, there was a software update for the tuner that corrected that issure was previously causing conflict to the program initially installed with the tune. Just food for thought.
 
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Remington

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@Remington replied to your message but it seemed like he was answering some of my questions lol - I mentioned breaks needing checking on my trailer and had been posting about vibration.
Lmao! Probably! Hahaha I was answering to two at a time! Apparently I was messed up like Chinese money!
 
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drfubar

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I have an 18ft trailer so when I installed the chocks on the trailer I wanted to get the weight correct for hauling. So I measured the height of the bumper without the SxS on and then placed the SxS so my bumpered lowered about 1 inch. I fastened the chocks at that point and it hauls great... just enough tongue weight!
 
Remington

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Exactly what he ^ said fellas! :)
 
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Ragnar406

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I have an 18ft trailer so when I installed the chocks on the trailer I wanted to get the weight correct for hauling. So I measured the height of the bumper without the SxS on and then placed the SxS so my bumpered lowered about 1 inch. I fastened the chocks at that point and it hauls great... just enough tongue weight!
I will do that... I need to find some level ground lol but I will do that.
 
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I put them on my utility trailer after seeing Remmy's. Much quicker to load and unload, puts you in the same spot every time and holds the machine more securely. I plan to put them in the new enclosed trailer as well, just have to find the happy spot that tows best.
 
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@Remington - No, good advice. I have a 14' tandem axel trailer - I think part of my issue is when I got the trailer under a load it would vibrate a little between 50 and 60mph. Having only trailered a couple of time previously I thought it might be how I had the Honda positioned on the trailer.. so I tried moving a little forward, a little back, I upgraded the straps to Mac's incase it needed to be secured.
I ended up taking back the trailer to the dealer (I was going to ask their suggestion) they got to looking at and said it was a bent spindle (that they fixed for free).
Now a sometimes still get a little vibration (to me it is like a wheel might not be balanced correctly) in the same range but that defaults me back into shifting the load again... this vibration is not as consistent and definitely not as noticeable. I am taking my trailer back in prior to Takeover so that I can get them to check it over/help find a potential short with the brakes as I am not getting feedback (dash gain) when they are applied.

now I try and position my rear tires where they are just over the back tires of the trailer. not sure how noticeable in pic below (and it may be a little back here
View attachment 68077
That looks about right from what I can see of the trailer.. if you put the motor splitting the tandems you’ll have enough tongue weight. Just keep in mind when you add weight to the bike or trailer (firewood, gas, and other crap) that you balance it out. Better a little tongue heavy than light.
 
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Looks to me that you may have enough room to back up a little it to mount the brackets at the front. If that’s too far back, you can leave it the way it is and for sure mount some on the back for added security. @PistonHonda has a set up very similar as you and did that and a lot of worries went away while traveling.
The wheel chocks are great but they take up a few inches of space. I was limited at the rear of my trailer and used these instead (wheel chocks up front).

SmartStraps 24 in. Heavy 13-Gauge Steel E-Track, 600 lb. at Tractor Supply Co.

But don't use the crappy straps that come with those. Buy another set of wheel chocks and use those straps. You'll have some left over parts. ;)
 
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