Shop air plumbing

Vikes79

Vikes79

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So to add pre tank dewatering you need something that can handle the heat and pressure of the system. Most use a transmission cooler rated for the pressure and temperature. I used this transmission cooler.

Derale 13317 Series 7000 Tube and Fin Cooler Core , Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONRQS?tag=sxsweb24-20

As you may notice it’s only a single row tube cooler. My calculations suggested I don’t need more that this for my common as dirt 60 gallon upright Sanborn compressor. My previous photos show this too. One word of caution…I am calculating that my compressor is not running continuously…this is where more rows make sense (longer time before cooler is heat soaked).

Most tranny coolers have AN fittings and my compressor has 3/8” compression fittings. You need and adapter to make the jump. This is what i used.
CNRAQR 6AN Female Flare to 3/8" Fuel Hardline Tube Fitting Adapter Aluminum Black 2Pcs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6H4YHLN?tag=sxsweb24-20

You will also need some aluminum tubing that can handle the pressure and temp

3/8 Fuel Line, 3003 Grade Aluminium Tubing for Brake Line, Metal Coiled Gas Line, Refrigeration [OD:3/8"][ Wall Thickness:0.035"][L:10ft]
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQR79PK1?tag=sxsweb24-20

And some sort of water separator. I chose an automatic draining one in 1/2” npt. I got 1/2 to 3/8 bushings and 3/8” npt to compression from my spare parts inventory.

NANPU Industrial Grade Heavy Duty Particulate Filter, Metal Bowl, Suitable for Paint Spray (1/2" NPT, Auto Drain)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP6HF92?tag=sxsweb24-20

I removed the back shroud and simply zip tied the cooler to the back centered on the fan wheel.

IMG 6151


Then I removed the pump outlet to tank aluminum line and cut one end down and rebent it carefully with my cheapie tubing bender to the outlet of my new separator which is just self tapping screwed to the pump holding bracket. The way it was is noted earlier in this thread.


IMG 6152


Using a tubing cutter and a bender simply connect the outlet of the pump to the top of the cooler and the outlet of the cooler to the inlet of the separator and finally separator to the tank using your compression fittings.

Image




Pressure the tank and check for leaks.
 
Last edited:
Vikes79

Vikes79

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So I had some more time to finish my air system.

I reused my old auto drain water separator and regulator, but mounting them on the wall temporarily as I’m short a few fittings to connect my submicron filter and desiccant dryer for my plasma table.

IMG 6197



I ran the tubing such in a C pattern that the farthest point is about 35’ from the compressor. It will be close, but I should be able to run a blast cabinet on the long run without a noticeable drop in pressure. If I decide in the future.

On the two corners of my shop I placed two of these in addition to the existing 50’ reel I already had. They seem to be really well built for China stuff.
By far less expensive than the HF ones I was considering. Easily the same quality.
VEVOR Retractable Air Hose Reel, 3/8 IN x 50 FT Hybrid Air Hose Max 300PSI, Air Compressor Hose Reel with 5 ft Lead in, Ceiling/Wall Mount Heavy Duty Double Arm Steel Reel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C37548K6?tag=sxsweb24-20

The manual reel I placed near my garage door as it’s actually a 100’ reel but only has 50’ on it. That one will be for tires etc.

IMG 6198
IMG 6199



I still have to tidy up the tubing…I have found it’s super easy to zip tie to the electrical wires in my shop…

With the reels I can reach all parts of my shop with at least two hoses.
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

SKOL!
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Got the radiator installed today in between errands today. Missing a fitting to connect the automatic separator, but it’s getting a strong temp drop.

I just used self tappers for the separator and handful of zip ties on the radiator to hold it to the guard.

Idea is to have everything drain to the separator.




View attachment 420099View attachment 420100View attachment 420101View attachment 420102
I should mention that this summer I added a 12v pusher fan that is wired to a 220v power supply that kicks out 12vdc at 10 amps which is powered when the pressure switch kicks the compressor on. I added the fan to improve the airflow across the compressor and help with the high summer temps .
 
NorthernJoe

NorthernJoe

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Feb 10, 2021
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I should mention that this summer I added a 12v pusher fan that is wired to a 220v power supply that kicks out 12vdc at 10 amps which is powered when the pressure switch kicks the compressor on. I added the fan to improve the airflow across the compressor and help with the high summer temps .
Vikes,
Thanks for posting your air dryer idea A good friend of mine was in the process of setting up a spray booth for cabinet finishing when you first started this thread. He added your mod to his compressor but mounted the rad off to the side of the motor and added an electric rad fan. the results were better than what he had at his previous shop with a $2000+ refrigerated air dryer! I am definitely doing this when I finally plumb my shop for air
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

SKOL!
Lifetime Member
Jul 18, 2018
11,700
113,511
113
South Dakota
Ownership

  1. 1000-5

  2. Talon X4 LV
Vikes,
Thanks for posting your air dryer idea A good friend of mine was in the process of setting up a spray booth for cabinet finishing when you first started this thread. He added your mod to his compressor but mounted the rad off to the side of the motor and added an electric rad fan. the results were better than what he had at his previous shop with a $2000+ refrigerated air dryer! I am definitely doing this when I finally plumb my shop for air
Thanks for the kind words! Cool to hear!
 

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