P500 Securing my P500 on the trailer for transport

WagginTail

WagginTail

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What trigger said use holes in frame to ratchet down.

View attachment 342980 View attachment 342981
We have a trailer just like this at work. We welded a tie down point in the front center on the bottom. Had to cut the expanded metal to do it. Then we shackled a short chain with a hook on each end to that tie down point. We hook the hooks in some holes on the frame of our mule then put it in reverse and pull it tight. We strap the back down with two 2" wide straps to the hitch on the mule. It stays pretty secure like that.
 
WagginTail

WagginTail

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We have a trailer just like this at work. We welded a tie down point in the front center on the bottom. Had to cut the expanded metal to do it. Then we shackled a short chain with a hook on each end to that tie down point. We hook the hooks in some holes on the frame of our mule then put it in reverse and pull it tight. We strap the back down with two 2" wide straps to the hitch on the mule. It stays pretty secure like that.
20220711 062449
20220711 062456
 
HiFive

HiFive

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I'm in the process of purchasing 2" husky ratchet straps and going to cut out a piece of mesh on trailer to allow tie downs to slip threw and hook onto frame of trailer thanks for all the good suggestions. This should be a easy retrofit.
 
CID

CID

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In the beginning, I was tying the rear like this -
1657561559744


But that had a few problems - 1. although tied as high as possible on the trailer, there was still some downward pull on the chassis and suspension. You want your suspension to work if possible and why tire straps or wheel nets with e-track are so good. 2. when I had to move the buggy further rearward to allow for 47 gallons of fuel up front, the straps were so straight across that they didn't have much rearward pull, too much angle.

Thinking about it for a while, a lightbulb went on. Although not as easy as 4 ratchet straps, I feel this is much more secure at the rear and easily adjustable for varying loads. This won't work with some wheels, stock Talon for one, the axle strap rings won't fit between the spokes. It's a little slower to load because I have to stop short on the trailer, hook these up, then drive forward to tighten before hooking up the front ratchet straps. That's faster than pulling it forward with the front straps.
1657562003796


Up front, like this without fuel -
1657562349041


Like this with fuel. The 2" ratchet straps are run around the top trailer rail.
1657562519981
 
WagginTail

WagginTail

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In the beginning, I was tying the rear like this -
View attachment 343181

But that had a few problems - 1. although tied as high as possible on the trailer, there was still some downward pull on the chassis and suspension. You want your suspension to work if possible and why tire straps or wheel nets with e-track are so good. 2. when I had to move the buggy further rearward to allow for 47 gallons of fuel up front, the straps were so straight across that they didn't have much rearward pull, too much angle.

Thinking about it for a while, a lightbulb went on. Although not as easy as 4 ratchet straps, I feel this is much more secure at the rear and easily adjustable for varying loads. This won't work with some wheels, stock Talon for one, the axle strap rings won't fit between the spokes. It's a little slower to load because I have to stop short on the trailer, hook these up, then drive forward to tighten before hooking up the front ratchet straps. That's faster than pulling it forward with the front straps.
View attachment 343182

Up front, like this without fuel -
View attachment 343183

Like this with fuel. The 2" ratchet straps are run around the top trailer rail.
View attachment 343184
Do the straps going through the wheels wear the finish off of the wheels?
 
WagginTail

WagginTail

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I'm in the process of purchasing 2" husky ratchet straps and going to cut out a piece of mesh on trailer to allow tie downs to slip threw and hook onto frame of trailer thanks for all the good suggestions. This should be a easy retrofit.
I wouldn't get the $10 straps from tractor supply or northern tool. Probably the same from lowes and home depot. Those things are junk. I tear up the ratchet part after a few uses. The piece of flat metal that locks in the teeth/gears will bend very easily while tightening the strap. I wasted $40 on some.
 
Neohio

Neohio

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CID

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Do the straps going through the wheels wear the finish off of the wheels?
As much as I wanted my spiffy beadlocks to remain pristine, it was not to be. As dinged up as the wheels are, I haven't noticed any strap wear and will accept it as normal wear and tear. The finish is matte black and would be easy to touch up when I touch up the dings.

They were really nice when new, not so much anymore. :oops:
I 2vTJTMV XL
 
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B

BobRack

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My trailer is 5'6" x 10" with 2x6 flooring. Big enough. I hauled "Scooter" to my deer lease and had no real issues.

But I was only able to put a ratchet strap across the "winch area" up front. Where should I strap it down in back? Once I get a hitch, I suppose that would be a good thing to tie down to, but I read it's only good for 100# of tounge weight.

I put the manual brake on, but the P500 seemed to rock front to back a little more than I'd like. I had the manual parking brake on:
- Supposed to you leave it in "drive" or put it in "neutral"?
- Do you put wheel chocks on all 4-tires?

Thougts appreciated.
Wheel bonnets with an Etrack system.

20220609 153008
 
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BrianM

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Other may disagree but I never tow using straps with open s hooks anymore. All my strap hooks are spring loaded. Get those straps wet and they relax and stretch and as the load shifts...well you just never know.
 
wolf359

wolf359

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My experience is that every place a tie down touches metal is a place for it to fail and that can happen fast. Hooking to the tires completely eliminates this problem. And by letting the suspension work on the buggy the tow is smooth as butter!

Dirty tie down
 
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Santa

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Erickson wheel tie downs are the way to go. Inexpensive, effective, easy to use and strong. Just be sure that the anchor plate bolts are securely attached to the trailer. I tie down all 4 wheels, but transmission in neutral and apply the parking brake.
 
Kawboy17

Kawboy17

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I just had a crazy idea cld just buy straps strictly for ur buggy over the wheels. Figureout how long you need, cut it off melt the frizz an walaaa purpose built straps with nothing to worry about!!!! Quick n nasty every time after ur first go round of making them. 😜 yay that’s how we don’t over complicate strapping stuff down boys good luck to ya happy hauling. Or just buy the straps already make for that purpose.
 
JMynes

JMynes

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I just had a crazy idea cld just buy straps strictly for ur buggy over the wheels. Figureout how long you need, cut it off melt the frizz an walaaa purpose built straps with nothing to worry about!!!! Quick n nasty every time after ur first go round of making them. 😜 yay that’s how we don’t over complicate strapping stuff down boys good luck to ya happy hauling. Or just buy the straps already make for that purpose.
What a novel idea!
 
B

BrianM

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My only concern with the E Track is securing the rails to the aluminum trailer deck. I plan to use 1/2 inch sheet metal screws. I assume LocTite doesn't do much to help with that application.
If you know what you are going to haul and where the tie down points need to be then why use etrack? Just install 4 heavy duty D rings with proper bolt through to the trailer frame. No screws...use bolts.
 
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