ohanacreek
My EcoBoost has I4WD
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Lifetime Member
Considering it's not my Gadget I'm not going to take creditI think I want to nominate this @ohanacreek for best gadget of the week! Is there such a category? And BIG PRIZES ?
Considering it's not my Gadget I'm not going to take creditI think I want to nominate this @ohanacreek for best gadget of the week! Is there such a category? And BIG PRIZES ?
Looks good! My 32in bar is starting to fog up..so gonna start looking at the RC bars.2nd attempt at powdercoat went a lot better than my first but I heated it too much before I powdered it.
The light bar is not really even noticeable from the drivers seat like the 40” amazon special was. WAY more visibility to the trail in front of the machine and more light too.
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Very nice
Thanks I really like it, much better light output and nowhere near as large and in the way. Between moving the snorkel and the smaller light bar there’s way better vision over the hood, basically back to factory. On top of that it only draws about 7amps, so if I felt like rewiring I could get rid of a fused relay and run straight off switch(it’s fused)Looks good! My 32in bar is starting to fog up..so gonna start looking at the RC bars.
Very nice
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Yea, you did not have much left on the rear brakes either. That was a lot of play in those A arms. I did not really check mine but they are only 6 months old... maybe I need to go back as checkEnded up with some time to do maintenance over the last few days.
Started at the back and changed diff fluid, added some pre-load to the Fox to account for the gear I usually carry on a trail ride, greased the rear SATV arms, sealed the beadlocks because I had a couple of slow leaks, and changed the brakes because the squealers had started. They had a few miles left but that was it.
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Got to the front changed the brakes, took the tires off sealed the beadlocks, and found the SATV arms were far more loose than I thought. I had tried to move them before with the tire installed but apparently the weight was enough to keep them from shifting by hand. As soon as I went to break the caliper bolts loose the a-arm shifted, A LOT.
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The hole in the frame is wallowed out on the upper drivers side, and the bolt is worn down. I think this is due to it not being tightened down enough when I installed the a-arms or the bolt possibly stretching. In addition to new upper bolts, I’m going to have find a viable solution other than larger bolts and a second $100 set of bushings.
I’ll check the bolts every ride until I’m satisfied it’s not going to repeat.
On another note the bushings don’t have very much room for grease at all.
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Yea, you did not have much left on the rear brakes either. That was a lot of play in those A arms. I did not really check mine but they are only 6 months old... maybe I need to go back as check
I used the corner wheel of the bench grinder to put some lines down the inner sleeve for grease to be able to get down both sides of the bushing.On another note the bushings don’t have very much room for grease at all.
I used the corner wheel of the bench grinder to put some lines down the inner sleeve for grease to be able to get down both sides of the bushing.
@ohanacreek I would have thought that bolt should have had a shoulder long enough to just extend past the frame tabs. Then a washer and a nylon locking nut to secure it. The threads are messed up where it bounced is the frame tab hole correct? That bolt looks to me like the shoulder is about a 1/4 to 3/8" short.
You can weld a heavy washer with the right size hole on the tab that way you can replace the nut.I think I am going to weld the nut to the tab, that would fix the worst of the two wear issues(its sad I had to word that differently because of JTW), and I will drill a tab to just fit the new bolt and tack that on in 4-5 places, to prevent too much heat from getting to the tab to weaken it.
You can weld a heavy washer with the right size hole on the tab that way you can replace the nut.