RECALL- Stop sale on specific 2020 Honda Talon Models. Small # affected

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HondaTech

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I'm going to try Maxima 0w40 full synethic motorcycle oil. I'm over 6,600 miles and my Talon R needs to be warmed up for 15 to 20 minutes before it will shift into low range properly. Its 40 to 65 degrees in the morning here but the 0w40 should fix the cold shifting issue. A new shift cable didn't help. The old cable was like new. Changing the sub trans oil every 2 years regardless of mileage won't work for me. That would be around 30,000 miles. My dealer will be calling the Honda Tech Line. If the 0w40 oil fixes it he will let Honda know.

Not to sound like an ass, but Honda wont give 2 s***s about what oil your using.
 
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hondabob

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They may if it fixes my shifting into low range problem. I was a motorcycle tech line specialist in the 70's and automotive tech line specialist in the 80's. I expect the model engineer may do a high mileage study.
 
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PaulF

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They may if it fixes my shifting into low range problem. I was a motorcycle tech line specialist in the 70's and automotive tech line specialist in the 80's. I expect the model engineer may do a high mileage study.
HondaBob,
I am having the exact same issue as you. First time it happened, I was climbing a hill pretty hard and BAM, BAM, BAM. Been a mechanic for 40+ years too and I knew right away it was not all the way in gear and thought for sure the sub-tranny was busted. Luckily, it seems OK.

It happened a couple more time (although not as drastic) and just about the same time I read you post about it and how it correlated to colder weather and it all clicked. Started happening in the fall on chilly morning but never when the machine is warm.

It gets pretty cold where I live so I am going to try 0W-20 over the winter and report back to you if it helps.
 
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hondabob

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10w40 worked great in my Pioneer 1000. I think the only difference is the reverse gear and the case. The case may have been changed to have clearance for the reverse gear. I'm trying Maxima 0w40 full synethic motorcycle oil and 0w30 should be ok too. The motorcycle oil has additives to reduce viscosity reduction. I think its the long grain polymers where automotive oil have short grain polymers. Any 0w40 oil may be ok for a short couple hundred mile test and its available everywhere. The sub trans has around 81 ball bearings to make the shifting better.
 
PaulF

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10w40 worked great in my Pioneer 1000. I think the only difference is the reverse gear and the case. The case may have been changed to have clearance for the reverse gear. I'm trying Maxima 0w40 full synethic motorcycle oil and 0w30 should be ok too. The motorcycle oil has additives to reduce viscosity reduction. I think its the long grain polymers where automotive oil have short grain polymers. Any 0w40 oil may be ok for a short couple hundred mile test and its available everywhere. The sub trans has around 81 ball bearings to make the shifting better.
Duly noted.

I will use my current oil of choice, Quaker State Ultimate Durability in the 0W-20 and 5W-30 weights for testing. Yes, you read that correct, test data says it is the best at those weights for a store available oil. I never considered QS in the past (actually scoffed at the notion of ever using QS) until this oil came out. It is superior to anything they have ever produced before and the 0W-20 and 5W-30 rank in the top 12 of a list of 235 oils tested. THe 5/20 is OK but it suffers a little at higher temps. There are other that are slightly better but not worth the money or effort to get them.

After losing a roller lifter on my low mile LS-2 I decided to do some extensive research on oils, mainly the Mobil1 that GM recommends for my car. To my amazement M1 5W30 isn't really that good of an oil. It has great properties and wear protection (118K Psi) UNTIL it gets hot and then it turns to crap (76K Psi) which is similar to many conventional oils. LS-2's in Corvettes are notorious for running hot and my oil temps reached 240+ often in the summer. I (maybe wrongly) attribute the lifter failure (roller bearing failed) solely on the oil so I no longer use any M1 oils in anything.

I now base my oil selections on test data and not marketing hype. I cannot find any test data on Maxima 0w40 Full Synthetic and QS Ultimate Durability is MUCH better than Mobil 1 so I will use QS for testing my Sub-Trans.

I digress, this got way off topic :) Enough talk about oils, lets get back on topic.
 
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iloehr99

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I know this thread is supposed to be about the Stop Sale but everyone talking about the reverse bang.
MAKE SURE ITS ADJUSTED AS SOON AS YOU NOTICE IT HAPPENING!!!
Mine would pop every once in awhile after putting it in reverse. Everyone on here said there's stopped doing it after a couple hundred miles.
Mine did not go away, it just got worse. Now it's at the dealership getting fixed.

It's not an oil issue.
 
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Average_Joe

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Not to sound like an ass, but Honda wont give 2 s***s about what oil your using.

I find that interesting in 2016 when i bought my P1K5 the dealer beat me over the head to only use Honda oil if i have a warranty claim (bought the 5 year) and oil was found to be the issue and it wasn't honda's oil it voided my warranty. They said that over and over to make sure I only use honda oil.

As a tech have you seen an engine fail due to oil and Honda snub their nose it wasn't our oil used and screw the customer?
 
PaulF

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I find that interesting in 2016 when i bought my P1K5 the dealer beat me over the head to only use Honda oil if i have a warranty claim (bought the 5 year) and oil was found to be the issue and it wasn't honda's oil it voided my warranty. They said that over and over to make sure I only use honda oil.

As a tech have you seen an engine fail due to oil and Honda snub their nose it wasn't our oil used and screw the customer?
Void what warranty? Every part of the vehicle's warranty? That would be completely illegal according to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

Even their manuals say what type of oil to use but do not require or demand that it be Honda oil, they cannot do that because of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

There is no way (legally) Honda can deny you a warranty claim or void any part of your warranty for using other oil unless that oil doesn't meet the specs as required in your owner's manual. If they denied a claim, that would violate federal law.

If you had an engine failure and were using any premium oil as good or better than recommended, they would have to honor their warranty.

The ONLY claim they could deny is for any wet clutch issues if you used an oil with friction modifiers, energy conserving, etc. because the manual specifically states it "may" harm the clutch.

So, I believe a dealer telling buyers that the use of other than Honda oils MAY result in a claim denial concerning the wet clutch warranty is appropriate but telling them it "Voids the Warranty" is downright a lie and possibly a criminal act. Honda cannot "Void your Warranty" for using non-Honda parts and they cannot demand that you use only Honda parts, they can only deny a claim and you can fight a denial but they cannot ever void your entire warranty for any reason.

You need to find yourself a new dealer. I had a knuckle break and I flipped my Talon (or it could have been the other way around, no one really knows). Honda could have easily said it was my fault and told me to take a hike but instead, my (very good) dealer stepped up, worked their asses off and between Honda America and the dealer, they made it right and reimbursed me for the broken parts i replaced months prior AND the damage the flip caused. They made me completely whole again. If you are getting less than that for service from your dealer and/or getting lied to so they can sell you some oil and parts, you might want to look for a new dealer.

Here is a summary of the law...

In a Consumer Alert issued by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the agency confirmed that “The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket part.” The alert outlines key provisions in the law that provides protections to car owners. As defined by the FTC, an “aftermarket' part is a part made by a company other than the vehicle manufacturer or the original equipment manufacturer.”

“The FTC’s reference to aftermarket parts is equally applicable to specialty parts,” said Russ Deane, SEMA’s General Counsel. “Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the warranty cannot be conditioned to a specific brand of parts, services or vehicle modifications unless those parts or services are provided free of charge.”

The alert notes that a consumer has the right to patronize independent retail stores and repair shops for parts and service without fear of voiding the new car warranty. The dealer/vehicle manufacturer has the right to deny a warranty repair but they must demonstrate that the aftermarket part caused the problem. The warranty remains in effect for all other covered parts.

The FTC alert may be downloaded using this link.

The alert was issued in response to an FTC complaint filed last August by the Automotive Aftermarket Industry Association (AAIA), Automotive Oil Change Association (AOCA) and the Tire Industry Association (TIA).
 
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snuffnwhisky

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Seat belt retractor problem on FB
 
Mudder

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Remember Southern Honda Powersports in Chattanooga, TN was fined big time for selling new Honda’s without doing mandatory corrective action. Had a new Rancher on my trailer when they demanded I sign an arbitration agreement not to take them to court if fraud. (Last paragraph).

Told them to shove it and bought elsewhere. CYA guys, watch what paperwork you sign at dealers.
 
H

HondaTech

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I find that interesting in 2016 when i bought my P1K5 the dealer beat me over the head to only use Honda oil if i have a warranty claim (bought the 5 year) and oil was found to be the issue and it wasn't honda's oil it voided my warranty. They said that over and over to make sure I only use honda oil.

As a tech have you seen an engine fail due to oil and Honda snub their nose it wasn't our oil used and screw the customer?

Most of the time when a engines failure is in question, it's not been due to the type of oil but the lack of maintenance causing the oil to fail to do its job, or not enough oil.

Now that's not to say, if when diagnosing an issue and you've exhausted all avenues they may inquire into the type of oil since they know how the machine will act with the oil they recommend and any other type could throw a wrench in the mix. The only oils I could see being and issue are anything with friction modifiers since that could cause clutch issue.

I understand wanting to use your favorite cocktail in whatever you own. I use Schaeffer's in my car even though GM said I would lose my warranty if I didnt use a "Dexos 2" certified oil. Yet here I am almost 85k miles later and it hasn't missed a beat. I would think unless they can prove the oil caused the failure then theyll have to eat it. The reason some imply the warranty is dependent on your following thr recommendations is that for most case, if your unit fails and your modifications are blamed (even though theres no facts to base that on) the majority of people arent going to take it to court and fight it, why? Because the amount of time and money it would take is usually over the cost of just fixing it yourself.

I cant say I've ever had Honda deny a claim due to something I thought was clearly a failure the customer had no control over. But I have seen the opposite, they've covered some stuff here recently that I for sure thought they would have seen was customer caused. Sometimes it real depends on your dealer going to bat for you and the DSM your dealership has. Our last one approved just about everything we threw at him but some will toe the line harder.
 
Montecresto

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Not to sound like an ass, but Honda wont give 2 s***s about what oil your using.
So do you know if Honda is going to contact us if we own an affected vehicle?
 
CumminsPusher

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So do you know if Honda is going to contact us if we own an affected vehicle?
Absolutely. It’s a safety related item if it’s for sure the seat belt. Even if not Honda has been really solid about sending out notices in regards to anything. A stop sale item you’ll see
 
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Absolutely. It’s a safety related item if it’s for sure the seat belt. Even if not Honda has been really solid about sending out notices in regards to anything. A stop sale item you’ll see
Thanks bro, I’ll watch the mail and hope I don’t see another letter from them. :eek:
 
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HondaTech

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Updated notice today, its is the seat belt retractor.

Replacing both in 2 seaters and all 4 in the 4 seaters.

Which is weird since the 4 seater uses the same retractors as the 2 seater in all positions but the drivers side rear, it's an HL7 part number.
 
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Montecresto

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Updated notice today, its is the seat belt retractor.

Replacing both in 2 seaters and all 4 in the 4 seaters.

Which is weird since the 4 seater uses the same retractors as the 2 seater in all positions but the drivers side rear, it's an HL7 part number.
All 4 seaters, or just certain VIN’s???
 
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