Talon questionable steering.

[Smitty335]

I agree - we always use Wester Honda and they are the best

They in AZ? I have a good friend that manages a Yamaha dealership in NW Arkansas and will take care of you! That's where I have bought the last two sets of tires from, beat SATV prices even mounted!

 

[Admin]

 

[Smitty335]

Make sure you didn't bend a tie rod.

Bend a tie rod? What ever are you talking about? HA!

 

[Smitty335]

Honda give me a Talon with the P1 power plant and transmission and the extra HP and I won't buy a Yamaha!

 

[JTW]

Honda give me a Talon with the P1 power plant and transmission and the extra HP and I won't buy a Yamaha!

 

[HUCK]

Honda give me a Talon with the P1 power plant and transmission and the extra HP and I won't buy a Yamaha!

So what kind of Yamaha are you getting ?

 

[Mothgrey]

If you are still a member here, What did your dealer say about this?

Well they said it's my fault because I have accessories on it. I said well when every accessory is off it happens. The dealer said they have to go by Honda I say the answer is bull crap. I just added a second battery tray and doing this weekend the second battery and isolator., And running any accessories off that. I'm also installing a cut off switch so they can't claim it's the accessories. My wife runs more accessories on her RZR than I even have and never had an issue. The only thing I have on when I drive most the time is my 2 way radio. SMH

 

[ThunderChicken]

My dealer checked the alignment said everything was with in specs. I haven't notice it acting up but only done local rides at the house so far. I'll know more when I get back to WV especially on the pavement riding.

 

[CID]

Well they said it's my fault because I have accessories on it. I said well when every accessory is off it happens. The dealer said they have to go by Honda I say the answer is bull crap. I just added a second battery tray and doing this weekend the second battery and isolator., And running any accessories off that. I'm also installing a cut off switch so they can't claim it's the accessories. My wife runs more accessories on her RZR than I even have and never had an issue. The only thing I have on when I drive most the time is my 2 way radio. SMH

Anyone know how many spare watts the Talon has to work with? My dual sport motorcycle (Suzuki DR650) only has 60 watts to spare, not even enough to run a heated vest for the most part. My Yamaha WR250R will damn near run my home fridge.

 

[PaulF]

Anyone know how many spare watts the Talon has to work with? My dual sport motorcycle (Suzuki DR650) only has 60 watts to spare, not even enough to run a heated vest for the most part. My Yamaha WR250R will damn near run my home fridge.

The Talon has a fairly powerful 700 watt @ 5000 RPM charging system.

Constant running items like the Fuel Pump, ECU, Ignition, Console, Lights etc. shouldn't draw more than 200 to 250 watts. This is a continuous need from the charging system.

Intermittent items like the Fan, Shift Motors, Power Steering, i4WD/ABS Motors, etc in combination draw much more than that (maybe up to 1000 watts) but all rely on the battery for needed power and then let the charging system replenish the battery. These items in aggregate probably only draw power 25% of the time (if that) so you need to put aside another 200 to 250 watts for them.

You are left over with around 200 to 250 watts for accessories (if they continuously run). But remember, even though things like a powerful 60 watt 2 way radio may have a 20 amp fuse, it draws less than 10-15 watts when on and listening and only draws the full 150 watts when transmitting.

Personally, I have a few extras (including a 60 watt radio that I transmit on a lot) and run them all from a second battery with an isolator. Second battery only gets charged if the primary battery is almost fully charged (I think it kicks in at 13.4 volts). I have 2 voltmeters and so far they always read near the same (within .2 volts) when running (even talking on the radio with all my lights on) so to me it means the alternator is keeping up with all my stuff.

I think some extended night riding and radio talk along with some extended winching MIGHT be more than the charging system can handle but that is why I chose the 2 battery with isolator setup, I never want a dead main battery. If the second battery ever gets low, I can limit my radio talk and turn off some lights. If that doesn't do it then I can always park, turn off everything and let the alternator recharge the second battery if needed. These batteries are pretty small, the charging system will have my second battery back up in a short time if everything else if off.

 

[CID]

The Talon has a fairly powerful 700 watt @ 5000 RPM charging system.

Constant running items like the Fuel Pump, ECU, Ignition, Console, Lights etc. shouldn't draw more than 200 to 250 watts. This is a continuous need from the charging system.

Intermittent items like the Fan, Shift Motors, Power Steering, i4WD/ABS Motors, etc in combination draw much more than that (maybe up to 1000 watts) but all rely on the battery for needed power and then let the charging system replenish the battery. These items in aggregate probably only draw power 25% of the time (if that) so you need to put aside another 200 to 250 watts for them.

You are left over with around 200 to 250 watts for accessories (if they continuously run). But remember, even though things like a powerful 60 watt 2 way radio may have a 20 amp fuse, it draws less than 10-15 watts when on and listening and only draws the full 150 watts when transmitting.

Personally, I have a few extras (including a 60 watt radio that I transmit on a lot) and run them all from a second battery with an isolator. Second battery only gets charged if the primary battery is almost fully charged (I think it kicks in at 13.4 volts). I have 2 voltmeters and so far they always read near the same (within .2 volts) when running (even talking on the radio with all my lights on) so to me it means the alternator is keeping up with all my stuff.

I think some extended night riding and radio talk along with some extended winching MIGHT be more than the charging system can handle but that is why I chose the 2 battery with isolator setup, I never want a dead main battery. If the second battery ever gets low, I can limit my radio talk and turn off some lights. If that doesn't do it then I can always park, turn off everything and let the alternator recharge the second battery if needed. These batteries are pretty small, the charging system will have my second battery back up in a short time if everything else if off.

Thanks for all the details, learning minds seek information. Is your second battery front and center? I'm looking at a tool storage box that lives in that space.

 

[JACKAL]

Honda give me a Talon with the P1 power plant and transmission and the extra HP and I won't buy a Yamaha!

Are you impersonating Joe Biden? Because what you typed makes no damn sense which is 25% worse than usual.

 

[PaulF]

Thanks for all the details, learning minds seek information.

Always glad to share! Unlike many, I actually like Electrical and Electronics. Diagnosing and fixing challenges and works my mind and God knows I can use that at my age.

Is your second battery front and center? I'm looking at a tool storage box that lives in that space.

Oh HELL no! I would never subject a battery to all that heat coming off the radiator, it would kill a battery in one summer for me. And I also installed to the storage box I think you are talking about so there wasn't room there anyway.

May 2nd battery is behind the insulated firewall I built, just next to the glovebox. I fabricated a battery tray and used a rubber hold down strap. Works excellent and fits the larger U1 35AH AGM Battery like this one...

Duracell Ultra 12V 35AH General Purpose AGM SLA Battery with M6 Insert Termina - SLAA12-35C at Batteries Plus Bulbs

This Duracell Ultra 12V 35AH AGM battery is great for mobility and wheelchair, backup or UPS systems, solar, healthcare, general business, schools, assisted living, contractors and property management. This battery offers Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) technology provides superior performance.

www.batteriesplus.com

I can get some pics in the next couple of days, I need to tear in there and install a quick connect for my jumper cables so I can use my 2nd (bigger) battery to jump start all my RZR buddies

 

[CID]

Always glad to share! Unlike many, I actually like Electrical and Electronics. Diagnosing and fixing challenges and works my mind and God knows I can use that at my age.


Oh HELL no! I would never subject a battery to all that heat coming off the radiator, it would kill a battery in one summer for me. And I also installed to the storage box I think you are talking about so there wasn't room there anyway.

May 2nd battery is behind the insulated firewall I built, just next to the glovebox. I fabricated a battery tray and used a rubber hold down strap. Works excellent and fits the larger U1 35AH AGM Battery like this one...

Duracell Ultra 12V 35AH General Purpose AGM SLA Battery with M6 Insert Termina - SLAA12-35C at Batteries Plus Bulbs

This Duracell Ultra 12V 35AH AGM battery is great for mobility and wheelchair, backup or UPS systems, solar, healthcare, general business, schools, assisted living, contractors and property management. This battery offers Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) technology provides superior performance.

www.batteriesplus.com

I can get some pics in the next couple of days, I need to tear in there and install a quick connect for my jumper cables so I can use my 2nd (bigger) battery to jump start all my RZR buddies

I'd love to see some pics of that second battery location. I guess you ride with the RZR guys for acquiring extensive troubleshooting experience, eh?

If your stock battery craps on the trail, are you 'cabled up' to use the second battery as a starter battery? Or is it accessories only?

What part of Utah? I got invited to Lake Powell in 1972 and have returned to the desert almost every year since. It's why I bought the Talon as I'm aging out of my dirt bikes.

 

[PaulF]

I'd love to see some pics of that second battery location. I guess you ride with the RZR guys for acquiring extensive troubleshooting experience, eh?

If your stock battery craps on the trail, are you 'cabled up' to use the second battery as a starter battery? Or is it accessories only?

What part of Utah? I got invited to Lake Powell in 1972 and have returned to the desert almost every year since. It's why I bought the Talon as I'm aging out of my dirt bikes.

I will get pics tomorrow.

I don't ride with RZR guys, they ride with me because they know I can get them going again when they break down .

I built a pair of "quick connect" jumper cables to rescue all my RZR buddies so if I really needed to, I could jump myself (that sounded bad).

Live in the Salt Lake area. I need to stay close (aging mothers) but I try to make it to the Dunes or mountains every weekend and just started venturing a little further. Sand Hollow was a BLAST last month and I plan on doing some White Wash/Moab trips if time permits before it gets too hot.

 

[PaulF]

Pics as requested...

 

[CID]

Pics as requested...

View attachment 188607

View attachment 188608

View attachment 188609

Thanks, Paul. 👍 I have that panel removed to install my Ryco turn signal/horn kit - dang, there's a LOT of room in there.

 

[PaulF]

Thanks, Paul. 👍 I have that panel removed to install my Ryco turn signal/horn kit - dang, there's a LOT of room in there.

Yes, there is a lot of room. However, be forewarned that putting the battery (or anything for that matter) back there does have its drawbacks if you have the storage box (or build a firewall like I did)...

1. If you build a firewall and/or put the storage box in, the access is bad and you may have to remove the cowling/panel to get to it.
2. If you plan on needing access to jump start someone, you will need to add a quick connect for jumper cables.
3. You will need to put any extra fuse/relay items somewhere else. If you put it back there with the battery, it will make testing/changing fuses extremely difficult.

To avoid these drawbacks, I did the following...

1. Nothing I can do but I did use high quality materials, marine heat shrink and a circuit breaker for the winch to reduce the possibility of needing access. So far, everything has been flawless but time is never kind on electrical connections in harsh environments like this.
2. I added cables from the battery to the storage box with a "Quick Connect" and then cut off the clamps off one end of my jumper cables and put another connector on the jumper cables. All I have to do is plug them in if I need to jump start someone (or myself).
3. I put a fuse/relay box in the glove box. It stays dry, keeps my fuses and relays all nice and tidy and is easy access if I need to change a fuse or relay. Took up a little of the glove box but it was worth it to me.

 

[CID]

Thanks for all the tips. I think I'll eventually try to block off/insulate the tunnel like you did - I was @Lil_Steve 's guest at the SxS Rally in Hurricane, UT last November. There were times that it felt like I was sitting in front of a blast furnace and it wasn't all that hot out (and I'm a desert rat at heart). Did you mount the fuses on the side of the glovebox so other things wouldn't be lying on them? A pic would be cool but trying hard not to become known as high maintenance.

I'm not completely unfamiliar with electrics but SxSs, and their specifics, are new to me. I notice that you have heavy gauge cables on the aux battery - are those just for your jumper cable set up or are they run to a contactor for charging? My point - I'd 'think' that a 10 gauge wire would be sufficient for keeping the aux batt. charged (except maybe for recharging after heavy winch use). Comment?

A side note to that - I had an aux batt. in my Bronco camper and used a 10 gauge wire to it for charging. But I had to make sure that relay dropped off when starting so I didn't try to run starting amps through that tiny wire.

 

[PaulF]

Thanks for all the tips. I think I'll eventually try to block off/insulate the tunnel like you did - I was @Lil_Steve 's guest at the SxS Rally in Hurricane, UT last November. There were times that it felt like I was sitting in front of a blast furnace and it wasn't all that hot out (and I'm a desert rat at heart). Did you mount the fuses on the side of the glovebox so other things wouldn't be lying on them? A pic would be cool but trying hard not to become known as high maintenance.

I'm not completely unfamiliar with electrics but SxSs, and their specifics, are new to me. I notice that you have heavy gauge cables on the aux battery - are those just for your jumper cable set up or are they run to a contactor for charging? My point - I'd 'think' that a 10 gauge wire would be sufficient for keeping the aux batt. charged (except maybe for recharging after heavy winch use). Comment?

A side note to that - I had an aux batt. in my Bronco camper and used a 10 gauge wire to it for charging. But I had to make sure that relay dropped off when starting so I didn't try to run starting amps through that tiny wire.

Block off the firewall from the top all the way down the tunnel to the skid plate. Then insulate the radiator hoses in the tunnel, you won't be sorry. It reduced the cab heat by at least 75% and all but eliminated the cab dust. Wifey will now ride with me

Fuse box mounted to the TOP of the INSIDE of the glove box. That way it is out of the way and I can put a few flatter items under it.

Wiring is a bit unorthodox (although I am actually Orthodox)...

1. I used the Honda provided + winch cables to tie the main battery + to the isolator (why run more wires?).
2. I used the Honda provided - winch cables to the winch relay - to tie the grounds together.
3. 40 amp circuit breaker on + cable at main battery end. Put this here in case front battery/accessories try to draw more current than the isolator is capable of handling. Not sure it is necessary but I did it for piece of mind.
4. Large winch cables from aux battery to winch relay with 100 amp circuit breaker on + cable.
5. 8 gauge from isolator to winch relay +.
6. 8 gauge from aux bat + to fuse/relay box.
7. 40 amp main circuit breaker in fuse/relay box.
8. Various fuses and relays in fuse/relay box to run added accessories.
9. Nothing is always on but rather...
   1. Added accessories are powered separate and come on with main ignition via a relay.
   2. Programmable RAP module fabbed to keep accessories on 15 minutes after main ignition is turned off (like a car). I can reprogram this to any amount of time I want.
   3. Accessory switch and circuit added so I can turn on/off accessories without main ignition switch.

 

[NFA_Fun]

OP, any updates? I just picked up my 2020 R yesterday and it’s doing the same thing. Has only .5 mile (yes 1/2 mile) on it. Did a quick check of the alignment and it’s about 3/8 toe in. Air pressure all spot on.

Was hoping to get some miles on this weekend, but a little concerned.

Steer on my Pioneer was perfect.