P1000 Pre-wired Key on power relay switch - NO key on power

[Beeerrry]

Good morning,

I ordered this pre wired switch:
Pre-Wired Relay Control Switch for AUX and Key-on usage. For Stinger, Cole Hersee or any.

once it came in i made all the connections and it worked perfect! Until last night. the key on side stopped working while on a ride. Once I got back to the shop and pulled the hood I put a voltmeter on it and confirmed it was NOT getting 12 volts to the key on positive terminal.

I havent done anything further with this yet but thought id ask for opinions on where to start the trouble shooting before I dive in.

 

[Admin]

 

[Neohio]

Check your fuses?

 

[Neohio]

I don't recall exactly where that harness gets key power from. But I would check that circuit to start.

 

[DRZRon1]

either start at the beginning of the 12 volts and work forward or where you lost 12 volts and work backwards

 

[Beeerrry]

Well that was easy. It ended up being a fuse. Now to figure out why it blew the fuse

 

[Hondasxs]

Hi.
Where did you pull key-on power from on your 2020 Pioneer?

If you pulled it from the ACC circuit then check that fuse. ACC - 15 AMP.

Otherwise, follow it and verify a good connection.

Report back.
Thanks.



Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[JACKAL]

Good morning,

I ordered this pre wired switch:
Pre-Wired Relay Control Switch for AUX and Key-on usage. For Stinger, Cole Hersee or any.

once it came in i made all the connections and it worked perfect! Until last night. the key on side stopped working while on a ride. Once I got back to the shop and pulled the hood I put a voltmeter on it and confirmed it was NOT getting 12 volts to the key on positive terminal.

I havent done anything further with this yet but thought id ask for opinions on where to start the trouble shooting before I dive in.

Is it wired up in this manner?

 

[Beeerrry]

Hi.
Where did you pull key-on power from on your 2020 Pioneer?

If you pulled it from the ACC circuit then check that fuse. ACC - 15 AMP.

Otherwise, follow it and verify a good connection.

Report back.
Thanks.



Sent from my SM-G996U using Tap

It was that 15 amp fuse.

 

[Scoop]

Well that was easy. It ended up being a fuse. Now to figure out why it blew the fuse

@Backwoods was likely involved ... 🤣

 

[Hondasxs]

Do you have anything else on this circuit?
Were you using the cigarette scoket by chance?


Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[bumperm]

May not be applicable in this instance, but here's a troubleshooting tip that I find especially useful when trying to locate an intermittent short or other problem that is blowing fuses - saves ending up with a handful of blown fuses and can make finding the problem a whole lot easier.

Use a 12 volt incandescent bulb, such as an automotive brake light bulb etc. Solder two wires to the bulb (you'll probably need to brighten a spot on the base with steel wool or sandpaper for the solder to flow). Alligator clips on the wire ends are optional. To use the "tester", remove the fuse from the affected circuit and install the "test light" in its place. Now with the circuit energized but all devises on that circuit turned, off, the test light should be off. Wiggle wires and do whatever was being done to blow the fuse before. When the short or overload occurs, it will cause the light to come on instead of blowing another fuse. This is especially handy when trying to locate an intermittent short in wiring, wire to frame short, or a device that has an intermittent internal short that is causing the problem.

A car brake/tail light bulb is particularly useful for this app, as both filaments can be wired in parallel, as it can pass a fair amount of current before it's filaments glow brightly. When this is used in place of a fuse for testing, if current in the circuit is normally low, the test bulb may not be on or may only glow dimly until the intermittent short occurs and then test bulb lights brightly - though still limits overall circuit current to prevent wires melting and other bad things. Note, however, that this test light can lower the normal supply voltage to higher current demand equipment.

To make the test bulb "tool box worthy", you can use clear silicone rubber caulk to coat the glass bulb and base with a 1/4" layer of rubber to protect the bulb from damage.