P1000 Park and 2wd lock adjustment

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500

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WoW!!! talk about a fast response :)

I am seriously amazed at what one full complete turn did. Now when I put it in diff lock it immediately lights up and goes into gear. Can't believe one turn made such a difference.

I cheated though, I didn't jack it up, I just left it in neutral and rolled the whole thing a couple feet back-and-forth assuming it did the same thing
I didn't jack mine up either, but you do have to be in park in order for the cables to be in the correct position to line them up. However, good deal on your 4W Diff lock going in so easily now.
I will post a link to another thread where I took photos and explained the positioning via the pics.
 
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Was a little confused about the center adjusting. It says to adjust the pivot pin flush. Flush which way? Bottom of the pin flush, top or middle? Looking at the picture I would say bottom but even the bottom isn't exactly flush.

And also I can't see in the thread where it says what each outside cable does? The center it says the rear diff but what does the driver and passenger side cable do?
Essentiallyto, set your cables to the correct position, you need to be in Park and 2 wheel lock. Once in this position, you line the outers up between the slots casted into the aluminum box on each side. Once this is done, move the center circle towards he rear of the vehicle until the back of it is flush with the rear line. Make sense?
 
Plumber101010

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I got it, so the rear of the pivot pin is flush with the line.

That's what I was confused about as it just said line up the pivot pin with the line but didn't say what part of the pivot itself.

I assumed by the picture it was the lower or bottom of the pin but if you look at the picture the lower part of the pivot pin is not exactly flush
 
Plumber101010

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That other link was perfect :)

If I put it into diff lock sometimes it would go in fast and others take 1-2 minutes and even then it wasn't guaranteed.

Thats why I am so surprised that one complete turn went from such a delay to instant!
 
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That other link was perfect :)

If I put it into diff lock sometimes it would go in fast and others take 1-2 minutes and even then it wasn't guaranteed.

Thats why I am so surprised that one complete turn went from such a delay to instant!
It helped my 2wd lock considerably. I never really had an issue with 4 lock. Good thing it's easy to get to and adjust.
 
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rmk700

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I just followed this step jacksl posted and mine works fine now. Rather than jacking it up, I did test drives to get it just right.


.........The way it works in the differential: There is a shift fork and a sliding collar that lock and unlocks the rear diff. In turf, the collar is pulled so that the axles are NOT physically connected. In 2wd lock the collar slides back to couple the two axles shafts together. The sensor is activated by the position of the collar. When out of adjustment (cable too loose) then it stays in 2wd lock (cable too tight) it stays in turf mode. Mine was too loose.

Now. When looking at the cables where they are adjusted: The cables coming from front are from park lever and from drive mode lever. Cable going out the rear goes to the diff. To engage turf mode (unlock rear diff) you must be in any gear except park and in turf mode. Look at how the cables move when you do this. When you go to park turf mode disengages (locks diff). So when adjusting be sure to be in OTHER than Park.

If yours will not go into turf mode the cables are likely too loose. My cable going to diff was the loose one. Just tighten a little then drive to check. Get it too tight it won't come out of turf mode.
 
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Tward

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My 2wd lock indicator will not turn , and also 4wd and diff lock will not turn on .The cable adjustments seem fine . But it only starting after i tried to make sure and adjust the cables were adjusted like shown but i Did not jack up the rear on the one side like i suppose to . I should have left it alone . lol Any HELP ?
I also had the problems you stated after adjusting my cables to the positions shown in the manual pictures. I loosened the single cable (goes to diff) quite a bit and found that my problems were solved. Cannot explain why my adjustment needed to different from the manual but with the "bracket" aligned with the castings in the case and the single cable to the rear looser than shown in manual it all works great
 
Plumber101010

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Wonderful thank you. I have just got back into town and I'm really starting to have some issues with the transmission. It seems to slip and not grab and blah blah and it's starting to worry me a little bit. I will check the fluid level today and see
 
Delton

Delton

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I also had the problems you stated after adjusting my cables to the positions shown in the manual pictures. I loosened the single cable (goes to diff) quite a bit and found that my problems were solved. Cannot explain why my adjustment needed to different from the manual but with the "bracket" aligned with the castings in the case and the single cable to the rear looser than shown in manual it all works great
Mine was exactly like yours. When I set everything exactly according to manual it wouldn't work. I loosened the cable going to rear and it worked perfectly.
 
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1BadDart

1BadDart

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Thanks for the info guys. My P1k 3 has 6 miles on it and wouldn't go into turf mode and the gear selector was difficult to use and hard to change gears, sometime not wanting to come out of the gear it was in. I made the adjustments and the gear selector is much better, I haven't driven it yet to check out turf mode.

The cables in the box under the bed were way out of whack and I think they are vibrating out of adjustment. I'm thinking I'll pick up some ss nuts and jam the adjusters to prevent them from self adjusting.
 
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txsurfer

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One more thing - mine went out of adjustment because the linkage under the dash came off the shift lever. This linkage is what pulls the other park wire that comes into the junction/adjustment box under the floorboard. It was an easy fix but took a bit to figure it out. It may have been an isolated event but thought i'd share.
 
TractorMan

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I had to adjust mine as well. It seemed that the adjustments rattled loose.

The box is under the rear passenger floorboard. There is a access panel on the floor itself.
Anyone making adjustments to the cables in the box behind the driver and under the bed need to check the cable up front just behind the battery also. This is not the cable under the battery. You do not have to remove the battery to get to this one. The reason Iam saying check it first is because I have done the adjustments in the box 2 times now and each time I would start having the same issues shortly after adjustment. When I would open the little box again to ckeck things out the adjustments would be out of wack again. Well today I was messing with something unrelated and had the hood off. I notice that the cable behind the battery had fallen out of its mounting location. It is held on by a 10mm nut and the nut was missing. I put a new nut on there with a lock washer and some blue lock tight and adjusted the cables in the box under the bed. I can be sitting still now and go from 2wd to 4wd diff lock or any other combination in between an it shows up on the dash instantly in most cases. On ocassion I roll forward or back a few feet and it changes on the dash right away. Must be one of the nuts that the Honda assembly line workers forgot to tighten properly. 20170324 124413 001

20170324 124453
 
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MBPIONEER

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Anyone making adjustments to the cables in the box behind the driver and under the bed need to check the cable up front just behind the battery also. This is not the cable under the battery. You do not have to remove the battery to get to this one. The reason Iam saying check it first is because I have done the adjustments in the box 2 times now and each time I would start having the same issues shortly after adjustment. When I would open the little box again to ckeck things out the adjustments would be out of wack again. Well today I was messing with something unrelated and had the hood off. I notice that the cable behind the battery had fallen out of its mounting location. It is held on by a 10mm nut and the nut was missing. I put a new nut on there with a lock washer and some blue lock tight and adjusted the cables in the box under the bed. I can be sitting still now and go from 2wd to 4wd diff lock or any other combination in between an it shows up on the dash instantly in most cases. On ocassion I roll forward or back a few feet and it changes on the dash right away. Must be one of the nuts that the Honda assembly line workers forgot to tighten properly. View attachment 38908

View attachment 38907
I had the same issue as you.
 
TractorMan

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Sorry bout that, you had actually explained the issue before I posted. I have to be honest, I did not read the previous post before putting up what I found. Was excited I guess. Thought I found something that no one else had. I should have known better.:p
 
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THANK YOU !!! To everyone that posted repair/adjustment suggestions. Mine wouldn't go into Turf Mode from the moment I took delivery until I got things adjusted. When I asked the sales rep at the dealership, he said you had to be in low range for the rear diff to unlock. Incorrect. 10 minutes reading here, 20 minutes exploring and experimenting in the garage, been perfect ever since.
Thanks again :)
 
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