P1000 Not feeling the love

[HawkDriver]

So I finally started adding stuff to the new ride. Starting out with the storage compartment under the drivers seat. One of the hex head bolts that holds the trim on must have been put in with a breaker bar and Loctite. Stripped that sucker almost instantly. Used a socket, not an allen wrench. How tight? Put a stripped screw extractor in, tried to pull it out, the drill started smoking and I broke the extractor. I was able to work around the trim and install the compartment. The chunk of broken extractor is still there.

Started pulling everything to install Honda horn kit and a SuperATV 4500 pound winch. Right fender and door, no problemo. Left door, first bolt, same thing. Must be torqued way down and installed with Loctite. Rounded the head off. Yes, I was using a 6 point socket. Had to put a rounded screw extractor on it to get it off. Gonna replace all 8 bolts with some quality bolts, not more of this cheap Chinese crap.

Get the shifter knobs off, go to pull the 2 hex bolts around the shifters that hold the panel on, they were pre-stripped from the factory. Wasnt that nice of them?

WTF is going on with Honda? The service manager told me at delivery to watch the hardware, they have had problems with it stripping. Are they cutting corners and using cheap Chinese hardware? I never these problems with my 700-4.

 

[Admin]

 

[DG Rider]

I'm an automotive tech. I've always thought Honda uses s***ty fasteners for lots of things. How many Accords or Civics do you pop the hood on and see one of the cam covers studs broken? A lot.
700 skid plate bolts are a joke. And I've found that (on the 700 anyway), the finish screws are either barely finger tight, or tighter than hell + 2.5 turns w/loctite.

 

[Worse1]

Ditto. The hardware is complete trash. They are really easy to strip. Happened to me twice.

 

[bumperm]

On my '21 P1000-5 SE, I swear they had an ape installing the hardware with a 1000 PSI impact driver. Most of the trim hardware is insanely over tightened, to the point the fastener threads are sometimes stretched. A "screwdriver" style 5mm hex driver won't budge them by hand. Using a Makita impact driver, (and quality German Wiha 5mm bit) you have to first tap in the hex bit with a hammer to "get it passed" the factory damage to the female hex drive hole so it's fully seated in the hole. It's as if they yanked the bit out of the fastener while the wrench was still turning/impacting. Failure to tap the bit in almost guarantees it'll strip the hex and you'll be left with only heroic removal methods.

Talk about ham fisted, I even found an inch and a half length of broken off round file under the seat. They must have been using it as a tapered alignment pin to lever holes into alignment, prior to "impact weld" some more bolts in.

Fortunately, the sub-assemblies are no doubt made in Japan so the fasteners are properly torqued on most of the machine - I hope.

 

[russknight]

Watch the movie of the Honda assembly line posted elsewhere here for an explanation.

 

[Remington]

LMFAO!!!
Back in 16-17’ish we were all b****ing and saying “look your machine over, lots of hardware is hand tight, ROPS bolt loose”
funny how its the opposite now, someone in production got the memo and got pissed! 🤣

 

[rickoshea]

i just know when i go to replace my door bushings i'm going to strip every mother humping bolt.

 

[sporttrac4x4]

Salaries Job Title Salary Assembly Line Worker salaries - 8 salaries reported $18/hr Team Leader salaries - 8 salaries reported $30/hr Associate salaries - 7 salaries reported $20/hr Equipment Service Technician salaries - 6 salaries reported $31/hr
It's just a job and that's how most look at it.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Bolt Biter Socket set

www.amazon.com/dp/B0863S8C6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_PSE34Y5KTC6Q4VRABWQ0?psc=1

 

[bumperm]

Bolt Biter Socket set

www.amazon.com/dp/B0863S8C6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_PSE34Y5KTC6Q4VRABWQ0?psc=1

I have a set, though of a different mfg. Problem is you can't get them onto many of the fasteners due to the fastener head being rounded with an internal 5mm hex strive (Allen wrench style), and/or being countersunk in a depression in the plastic.

 

[PJon]

So I finally started adding stuff to the new ride. Starting out with the storage compartment under the drivers seat. One of the hex head bolts that holds the trim on must have been put in with a breaker bar and Loctite. Stripped that sucker almost instantly. Used a socket, not an allen wrench. How tight? Put a stripped screw extractor in, tried to pull it out, the drill started smoking and I broke the extractor. I was able to work around the trim and install the compartment. The chunk of broken extractor is still there.

Started pulling everything to install Honda horn kit and a SuperATV 4500 pound winch. Right fender and door, no problemo. Left door, first bolt, same thing. Must be torqued way down and installed with Loctite. Rounded the head off. Yes, I was using a 6 point socket. Had to put a rounded screw extractor on it to get it off. Gonna replace all 8 bolts with some quality bolts, not more of this cheap Chinese crap.

Get the shifter knobs off, go to pull the 2 hex bolts around the shifters that hold the panel on, they were pre-stripped from the factory. Wasnt that nice of them?

WTF is going on with Honda? The service manager told me at delivery to watch the hardware, they have had problems with it stripping. Are they cutting corners and using cheap Chinese hardware? I never these problems with my 700-4.

Had the same problem when I installed the under seat storage in my 2018. I slotted the head with a Dremel and still wouldn’t budge. Tried my old hammer impact and all it did was bend the bracket. Finally did the work around like you did. If I ever need to take the panel off completely I guess I’ll just drill the bolt out and replace with next size up after tapping. All of the other disasemblies I’ve done on the machine were no problem.

 

[bumperm]

Had the same problem when I installed the under seat storage in my 2018. I slotted the head with a Dremel and still wouldn’t budge. Tried my old hammer impact and all it did was bend the bracket. Finally did the work around like you did. If I ever need to take the panel off completely I guess I’ll just drill the bolt out and replace with next size up after tapping. All of the other disasemblies I’ve done on the machine were no problem.

There is another good way, IF the situation doesn't involve plastic and if you have a welder handy. Put a suitable nut on the recalcitrant bolt or screw head, and weld into the center hole of the nut so you can use the nut to apply the torque. This works well with TIG for the small stuff, but I've also used MIG.

The fix I've found to work *before* the hex (Allen)head bolt gets damaged, is to first make sure there's no dirt or debris in the hex hole. Then tap in a hex drive bit with a few gentle taps of the hammer - you can hear when it's all the way in as the sound goes "solid". Now use a new (or in good condition, hex bit or Allen wrench) a portable impact driver works best.

Since my machine is new, and every &%$! fastener on it was put in by a large, burly ape, I've been breaking them loose and running them back in to a more sensible torque before subjecting them to the elements that may make it more difficult later.

 

[Kelldog]

Lol. Now i feel better. I had a hell of a time getting the front bumper off. Stripped two bolts. Way too tight and cheap bolts