P1000 No read out on Dual Volt meter

[CID]

At this point, I'd wire a simple toggle switch to control the Ground and revisit the problem later or I'd forget the relay and leave the toggle permanently depending on my tolerance for agitation.

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Lol...
Something is just overlooked, unhooked, or misunderstood.

Revisit it and you will find the problem.
Make sure that frame screw is bare metal and not all paint. Maybe hook it to neg on battery for testing.

Layout:
Red wire - to key-on source [or any hot wire to test.]
Black wire - sold ground.
#1 Green wire - gold post on voltmeter.
#2 Green wire - tape it off. (Not used)
Duplex wire end 1 - silver pins on voltmeter.
Duplex wire end 2 - left and right of isolator main post.

Well. I hope when u find the issues.

 

[DAV11]

Shouldn't need to use a relay for a volt meter.

 

[mj1angier]

Lol...

Layout:
Red wire - to key-on source [or any hot wire to test.]
Black wire - sold ground.
#1 Green wire - gold post on voltmeter.
#2 Green wire - tape it off. (Not used)
Duplex wire end 1 - silver pins on voltmeter.
Duplex wire end 2 - left and right of isolator main post.

Well. I hope when u find the issues.

That is how it I have. If it's light enough when I get in from work today I will take a quick video and maybe someone will notice something.

Shouldn't need to use a relay for a volt meter.

I think you do if you don't want the meters to stay on. It's not the biggest deal, but like all the other blue LED that shine all the time at night in the house, it kind of annoys me, lol


Maybe at lunch today I will wire up some straight leads to test relays outside of the plug.

 

[CID]

Shouldn't need to use a relay for a volt meter.

One side of the dual VM is connected directly to the isolator (two leads, both sides of the isolator), which is always hot; the relay is used to switch the ground side. I'm north of 70 and it's a new concept to me but I understand why the relay is necessary - there aren't any switched grounds so we need the relay to do that.

 

[DAV11]

That is how it I have. If it's light enough when I get in from work today I will take a quick video and maybe someone will notice something.



I think you do if you don't want the meters to stay on. It's not the biggest deal, but like all the other blue LED that shine all the time at night in the house, it kind of annoys me, lol


Maybe at lunch today I will wire up some straight leads to test relays outside of the plug.

I have the primary battery on a keyed power source for it's volt meter, and the secondary battery/volt meter is on the switch that turns on all the accessories connected to the second battery.

 

[mj1angier]

Well I got it fixed, I know how I fixed it, but not sure why it was broke, lol

I went back and checked everything and it still looked correct. So I thought I would re-meter everything. The wife came out wanted to know if she could help. Normally that is a hard "NO" when I am getting furstrated, but thought to save myself a step or two, I told her she could key on power when I said to. Afer check from battery to the black grounds, I moved on to the key on power to ground. Before I would turn on power and go around and put meter tips in. It would be 11.9 volts and dropping, thinking it started out at 12 and dropped as I was get probe in. But when she keyed it on it was at 11.9 and dropping to start.

EUREKA !

I was not getting 12 volts to relay. For some reason only 11.9. I pulled the hot wire from the black/white accessory wire and moved to the other black/ white wire beside it ( just other leg of fuse I think). 12.3 volts!

Put it all back together and works fine.

I guess the wire tap was just not in well enough to get full 12V ? Only reason for voltage differance I can think of.

Anyway, now to start winch and back up light install!


Thanks for everyone's help

 

[BobRack]

Thanks in advance for the help. I have tried searching but can find the answer.

I have the Tru Dual battery w/ dual VM that I got from club store. I am not great with wiring but not completely lost.

I have gotten everything wired up and I can't get the VM to work when plugged into relay. I can straight wire it to ground and it works. I have power coming to relay from the accessory key on wire- test with meter across to ground wires, 12+volts. Have check everything but don't know how to test the relay itself. The isolator appears to be working- LED comes on, volts same at both batteries.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again,Mickey

Are you running a second fuse box? If so, connect the Aux side of VM to fuse box and main side to your switched 12 volt supply. Unless your second fuse box is wired up directly to second battery where it works without the key on. If so, wire in the relay between the fuse box and Aux side of VM. Pin 30 to fuse box. Pin 87 to Aux side of VM. Pin 85 to ground and pin 86 to switched 12 volts. AKA ignition.

 

[PatioDaddyo58]

Thanks in advance for the help. I have tried searching but can find the answer.

I have the Tru Dual battery w/ dual VM that I got from club store. I am not great with wiring but not completely lost.

I have gotten everything wired up and I can't get the VM to work when plugged into relay. I can straight wire it to ground and it works. I have power coming to relay from the accessory key on wire- test with meter across to ground wires, 12+volts. Have check everything but don't know how to test the relay itself. The isolator appears to be working- LED comes on, volts same at both batteries.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again,Mickey

I wired my dual volt meter up as per the instructions and it would not work. So, I moved the ground wires directly to the batteries and share the same female crimp connector at the voltmeter. The main battery wire from the voltmeter is connected directly to the main battery and the auxiliary wire is s connected directly to the second battery. I installed a $5 dollar momentary interrupter switch on the negative/ground side so it wouldn't stay on all the time. I don't have it going to a relay. Problem solved.