P700 New to me 2016 700-4 Deluxe with battery charging issue

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nsanow

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I just bought a property on 20 acres coming from a suburban neighborhood so it required some "work machines" and I found this 700-4 on Facebook Marketplace with 400hrs and 3300 miles. I will preface this as I am a car guy so I have a pretty good idea how engines work. After I bought the Pioneer I took it to the local dealership for a full tune up. All new fluids, valve adjustment, filters and $1200 later she is running great!

As I have been using it around the property with I can get maybe 8-10 starts out of the battery before it dies. I went to Batteries Plus to get a new battery. I tested the stator plug and was pulling .3 on each combination. Tested the Voltage regulator and got .5 volts on one set of 3 diode and .15 on the other 3 diodes. I assumed it was the voltage regulator so replaced with RMStatic Mosfet regulator. Driving it today. Same issue!

I have a remote batter jumper and it will start up right away with a jump so I know it is a dead battery. It is bone stock and has the winch which I have yet to use but I have not been using the electrical otherwise.

I am going to take the battery back to Batteries Plus to test it? I bought the upgraded AGM version for it.

I would love any ideas of how to diagnose. I LOVE the machine and it has been super helpful but would love to make it fully reliable.

Happy to be a member of another forum. Already a member of HybridZ for my Datsun 240Z, and Rivianforum.com for a daily driver. =)
 
Hello_Darkness

Hello_Darkness

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Genius question
8b3cc032c22d12564b4528a3742cca8f
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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I just bought a property on 20 acres coming from a suburban neighborhood so it required some "work machines" and I found this 700-4 on Facebook Marketplace with 400hrs and 3300 miles. I will preface this as I am a car guy so I have a pretty good idea how engines work. After I bought the Pioneer I took it to the local dealership for a full tune up. All new fluids, valve adjustment, filters and $1200 later she is running great!

As I have been using it around the property with I can get maybe 8-10 starts out of the battery before it dies. I went to Batteries Plus to get a new battery. I tested the stator plug and was pulling .3 on each combination. Tested the Voltage regulator and got .5 volts on one set of 3 diode and .15 on the other 3 diodes. I assumed it was the voltage regulator so replaced with RMStatic Mosfet regulator. Driving it today. Same issue!

I have a remote batter jumper and it will start up right away with a jump so I know it is a dead battery. It is bone stock and has the winch which I have yet to use but I have not been using the electrical otherwise.

I am going to take the battery back to Batteries Plus to test it? I bought the upgraded AGM version for it.

I would love any ideas of how to diagnose. I LOVE the machine and it has been super helpful but would love to make it fully reliable.

Happy to be a member of another forum. Already a member of HybridZ for my Datsun 240Z, and Rivianforum.com for a daily driver. =)
You by chance ohm out stator phase to phase and phase to ground ?

You able to check voltage on battery while driving - yes just throw some jumpers on and put meter next to you while riding .


seen a bunch of past issues with stators that went south
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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I’m assuming it is the factory winch since everything else is bone stock and it has a wired remote. How do I know if it is factory or not?
What you are looking for is there a hot leg with key off a wirelesss remote or to check for a parasitic draw draining the battery -

When there is a wireless winch controller - the receiver box is always hot looking for the transmitter - it chews up power - draining the battery


Sounds like the battery isn’t charging or there is a parasitic draw draining it ?


If you have a meter with amp check - can always put the meter in series with the negative on battery and see what the draw is with machine off.
 
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N

nsanow

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I will go out and test it later this morning. We aren’t moved in yet so I don’t have it close by but will be running over. I appreciate the help.

I did check the stator phases and they are 3 read the same but I didn’t check to ground.

I’ve been trying to find where is the stator located and how hard is it to replace? The voltage regulator couldn’t have been any easier.
 
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DRZRon1

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your best friend will be any oem parts look up such as Ron Ayer’s, partzilla, etc.

All the assembly schematics are available
 
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nsanow

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That is helpful. I just had a thought. The previous owner had it since new and seemed like a straight shooter and said he never had a problem with it. I took it straight away to the dealership for all fluid changes, valve adjustment, etc. I learned the tranny fluid had never been changed nor valves adjusted.

Does any of this service involve removing the stator connection? I’m wondering if they didn’t properly reconnect something. I’ll get under it shortly and see what I can find out
 
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Happy to be a member of another forum. Already a member of HybridZ for my Datsun 240Z, and Rivianforum.com for a daily driver. =)
Howdy from Oklahoma, and welcome to the club. Off topic, but if you know anyone needing a 1972 original Nissan factory service manual for L24 and L20A series engines, I have one, along with a SU and SU-Hitachi carburetor shop manual for all makes of cars.
 
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N

nsanow

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Ridgefield, WA
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  1. 700-4
I tested the battery static at 13.3 volts and it is fully charged and when running it’s at 14.4 volts so it appears to be charging.

My winch trigger is wired has KFI printed on the side and plugs into the dashboard. Either the brand new Duracell battery can’t hold a charge or I have a drain somewhere?

I watched the volt meter drop to 13.23 from 13.25 volts in a matter of a minute.

What are your ideas?
 
Glock21user

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Check all of your grounds to ensure they are clean and tight.
Do you leave the key in the ignition switch, the ignition swith on some of them fails and causes a not start funky dash concern or causes a parasitic drain like mine did.
My ignition was always powering something causing a weak/dead battery issue.
Once changed all of my dead battery concerns and flashing dash issues went away.
Good luck and keep the thread updated as it may help someone else down the trail.
 
N

nsanow

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Ridgefield, WA
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  1. 700-4
Is there a schematic of where the grounds are?

I brought the new battery to test under load and it tested good so that’s off the list.

I do leave the key in it all the time. But I’ve started with a full battery leaving it on the trickle charger in the morning and by afternoon starting it numerous times it’s dead. Would the ignition switch cause that?

It doesn’t flash any weird lights at me when it dies just the famous “click” and the dash will light up but the engine want turn over.

I appreciate everyone’s help. It’s what makes these forums so valuable.
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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Hi - the 700’s are known for water in the ignition switches and they get corroded up and I guess can have a short/leakage to ground.

Sounds like some poking around that switch as well.

The shop manual has all the ground locations, etc. and in my mind is invaluable.

It’s either find the draw by pulling fuses one at a time or putting the ammeter online - checking for a draw and pulling one fuse at a time to see what circuit it is - total pita but you asked 😂.
 
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nsanow

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Compared to a car there are far fewer fuses so that’s better! Ignition switch could be the cause as the previous owner was a homesteader and lived off the grid and it was stored outside. I’ll start there. Thx
 
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