Light Bar Mounting Location (& Justification)?

Remote

Remote

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I just installed a 52" bar last weekend. My wife and I were torn between low windshield and roof. In fact, I had fabricated and installed a set of lower mounts when we reversed and went with the roof mount. Reasons? We use our P1000 a bunch in the winter for work such as fueling equipment, transport etc. and the roof gives a better light angle; not a bunch of low hanging tree limbs in our riding AO; the tracks tend to throw a lot of snow/mud on the lower windshield and hood under certain conditions; the lower windshield mount would catch snow build up for us. Our 52" roof mount is as low on the roof as possible and very solid. Light throw is AMAZING compared to the stock lighting.

20170320 090141
 
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Smitty335

Smitty335

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I just installed a 52" bar last weekend. My wife and I were torn between low windshield and roof. In fact, I had fabricated and installed a set of lower mounts when we reversed and went with the roof mount. Reasons? We use our P1000 a bunch in the winter for work such as fueling equipment, transport etc. and the roof gives a better light angle; not a bunch of low hanging tree limbs in our riding AO; the tracks tend to throw a lot of snow/mud on the lower windshield and hood under certain conditions; the lower windshield mount would catch snow build up for us. Our 52" roof mount is as low on the roof as possible and very solid. Light throw is AMAZING compared to the stock lighting.

View attachment 38708
The local Honda dealer has a roof with stero and big lights under the top of brim front roof, looks pretty trick!
 
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Boomboom907

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I beat the crap out of my bars. I had a 12 inch on the very front of my bumper on my polaris. I literally pushed a viking forward a foot and realised it was my light bar that made the contact.

They lense is made from poly. It's basically indestructible. The brackets are made from very mild steel. What does that mean? Engineered weak spot.

I rolled my Honda. landed on the nose of the bumper and bill of the roof. My bar snapped off because 1700+ lbs.

Bar still works great. Brackets were a couple bucks on Amazon.

Anyways, long story short, I've had many bars and I can tell you worrying about them breaking should be the last thing on your mind. You WILL break an axle before you break your bar. I've beat the snot out of mine. I've crossed rivers deeper than the steering wheel with the bar a foot under. Had my rig parked outside in -20 f. Mounting location makes no difference to structural longevity. The LEDs will burn out before you break these bars. I promise.

Here's what I've noticed. We have about 5 sxs between my group. Steel roofs are awesome for light bars. The Honda plastic roof is amazing for what it is, but rigid it isn't and the wiggle sucks. It's so annoying I don't even use the light. I'm gonna take it off.

I've tried it all, get a 52 inch straight bar 300 watts with cree or Philips LEDs. and 2 1.75 inch roll cage clamps for about 20 dollars. 0 wiggle, very cheap, no holes in plastic, and you can get your hood off without removing the bar.

Just my opinions, but I have done it all. Alaska is dark 80% of the day in winter. I have light out to about 300 yards right now. You could shoot paper at 300 yards. We literally went skeet shooting using only my lightbar during December at 7pm.

If you have a plastic roof I would mount low on the rops with clamps. And anything less than 52 inch is a waste of time and space until you get into top dollar bars. A 300 watt bar only measures 160-200 ish watts. My friend is a rigid distributer. We have played with more light bars than most people could afford in their whole lifetime.

Anyways, sorry if this comes off as a rant or whatever. Just sucks seeing people spend the same amount of money and getting inferior product compared to what they could have got if they had gone through and wasted all the money I have.

And stay away from epistar LEDs. So disappointed. Yellowish color and very short range. Burned out fast. Auxbeam takes the cake for anything in the 100 ish range. Nobody else comes close. We tried nilight, bear claw, eyourlife, auxbeam, mictuning and a few off brand led pods.

Again, I've pretty much tried it all. We have a viking with a 52 on roof, my Polaris had it mounted to the hood. 52 inch on the roof of 2 Polaris 6x6s. My buddy has a 20 inch auxbeam x series on his grizzly. I have 2 52 inch on my Honda.

My opinion, low is best, 52 is best, quick disconnect wiring is best, and most importantly of all Locktite your bolts that mount your bar to your mount......... Yes It's happened. No I wasn't happy.

Anyways, good luck with your journey. If you are anything like us, it will never end until you can get a tan at midnight..... It never ends.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
2039a90e7bf0705409942bd8a874a8fdF0d94aec7a7e98ff10f420fd42edd265

And a few pics of my old setups that I tried out22e77ca11d7ed4f10ca70fa3a099d014
0c4855d4940f2de39012e25546bd87da
 
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USMCsilver

USMCsilver

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Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
2039a90e7bf0705409942bd8a874a8fdF0d94aec7a7e98ff10f420fd42edd265

Can you post a picture or two of the mounting method you used just in front of the windshield?

I may go that route since you mentioned the roof was flimsy and vibrated the light.

Sent via TapaTalk on S7 Edge.
 
Remote

Remote

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Jan 30, 2017
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Rocky Mountains
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  1. 1000-5
I beat the crap out of my bars. I had a 12 inch on the very front of my bumper on my polaris. I literally pushed a viking forward a foot and realised it was my light bar that made the contact.

They lense is made from poly. It's basically indestructible. The brackets are made from very mild steel. What does that mean? Engineered weak spot.

I rolled my Honda. landed on the nose of the bumper and bill of the roof. My bar snapped off because 1700+ lbs.

Bar still works great. Brackets were a couple bucks on Amazon.

Anyways, long story short, I've had many bars and I can tell you worrying about them breaking should be the last thing on your mind. You WILL break an axle before you break your bar. I've beat the snot out of mine. I've crossed rivers deeper than the steering wheel with the bar a foot under. Had my rig parked outside in -20 f. Mounting location makes no difference to structural longevity. The LEDs will burn out before you break these bars. I promise.

Here's what I've noticed. We have about 5 sxs between my group. Steel roofs are awesome for light bars. The Honda plastic roof is amazing for what it is, but rigid it isn't and the wiggle sucks. It's so annoying I don't even use the light. I'm gonna take it off.

I've tried it all, get a 52 inch straight bar 300 watts with cree or Philips LEDs. and 2 1.75 inch roll cage clamps for about 20 dollars. 0 wiggle, very cheap, no holes in plastic, and you can get your hood off without removing the bar.

Just my opinions, but I have done it all. Alaska is dark 80% of the day in winter. I have light out to about 300 yards right now. You could shoot paper at 300 yards. We literally went skeet shooting using only my lightbar during December at 7pm.

If you have a plastic roof I would mount low on the rops with clamps. And anything less than 52 inch is a waste of time and space until you get into top dollar bars. A 300 watt bar only measures 160-200 ish watts. My friend is a rigid distributer. We have played with more light bars than most people could afford in their whole lifetime.

Anyways, sorry if this comes off as a rant or whatever. Just sucks seeing people spend the same amount of money and getting inferior product compared to what they could have got if they had gone through and wasted all the money I have.

And stay away from epistar LEDs. So disappointed. Yellowish color and very short range. Burned out fast. Auxbeam takes the cake for anything in the 100 ish range. Nobody else comes close. We tried nilight, bear claw, eyourlife, auxbeam, mictuning and a few off brand led pods.

Again, I've pretty much tried it all. We have a viking with a 52 on roof, my Polaris had it mounted to the hood. 52 inch on the roof of 2 Polaris 6x6s. My buddy has a 20 inch auxbeam x series on his grizzly. I have 2 52 inch on my Honda.

My opinion, low is best, 52 is best, quick disconnect wiring is best, and most importantly of all Locktite your bolts that mount your bar to your mount......... Yes It's happened. No I wasn't happy.

Anyways, good luck with your journey. If you are anything like us, it will never end until you can get a tan at midnight..... It never ends.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
2039a90e7bf0705409942bd8a874a8fdF0d94aec7a7e98ff10f420fd42edd265

And a few pics of my old setups that I tried out22e77ca11d7ed4f10ca70fa3a099d014
0c4855d4940f2de39012e25546bd87da
LOL...I'm totally OCD about aux lighting shaking and vibration. On my install (after way too much research time), I noticed that the roof curvature had a solid structure with the exception of the up, down axis on my chosen mounting location. The solution to remove the vibrational axis was to fabricate preloaded spacers made of a very hi density foam that was used on a structural packing assembly for a very heavy pump. The spacers fit between the windshield metal frame and the roof with cutouts to accept the light mounting studs (loctited BTW :). This (so far) eliminates light shake very effectivly while allowing a lower mounting point on the roof. I took a rather spirited romp through some deepish sled tracked spring snow mixed with some dry rocky double double track to a near by ghost town last night and was pleased with the light stability. Now to deal with the water that will melt off the lights and freeze on the windshield and the starwars lightspeed effect from a high mounting point in an active snow storm......life is certainly a compromise. I do have empty switch spots for a blizzard lighting system add on.
 
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Deer-hunter

Deer-hunter

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Feb 19, 2016
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  1. 1000-5
Here is a picture of the light shinning just from a curved 52" bar mounted lower windshield. I have an aluminum plate bolted to the roll bar I bought some longer bolts and drilled 2 holes in each plate and replaced the bolts holding the roll bar. My light does not vibrate at all and has never moved since I've installed it back in November.

IMG 0238 20161121 233526270 iOS IMG 1756 IMG 1757
 
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USMCsilver

USMCsilver

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  1. 700-4
I got my 700-4 yesterday. 750 mile, 12-hour round-trip journey. My ass still hurts...

So, looking at it, the way the windshield blocks the portion of the rollcage, I may have to further explore this, or attempt to cut out the Plexiglas with a rotary tool (or something).

I'll try to post a picture tonight of what I'm talking about.

Here's a gratuitous pic for the helluva it.

Ab89520818e0494f90342b1dee44b1b5

Sent via TapaTalk on S7 Edge.
 
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USMCsilver

USMCsilver

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@Deer-hunter - can you post some close-ups of your installation? Thanks!

Sent via TapaTalk on S7 Edge.
 
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Nick1997

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Jun 10, 2017
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  1. 700-4
0048ecbf9a2c257d4d779aeb3954fb41

30220676a0c7ebf1646c177722e688f5

Pushed trees and brush down , no damage. Roof adds weight up high. I know it's only 10-15 lbs but it starts to add up.

My 700 was a bloated fat cow, top heavy like Dolly P

0c2b826683eb7405b52e3c6be5146f9c

Moved everything lower on 1000
What size light bars are those on your 700? And did you have any issues with the battery?
 
trigger

trigger

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USMCsilver

USMCsilver

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Thanks y'all! I got it figured out a few months ago. 52" curved.

E0632dae2240f9f02522ab1f28776912

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
R

rkwerner

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Jun 15, 2017
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Wisconsin
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  1. 1000-3
The best mounting location will depend on what you are doing and what beam pattern you are running. As a general rule you want to mount flood beam pattern lights low and spot pattern beam lights high.

Similarly if you plan to be bombing around the desert at night you want spot beam lights to be mounted high this will reduce the appearance of shadows . If you are slowly winding through trees or in bad weather (rain/snow/fog/dust) you want a flood beam mounted low to reduce glare (this is why fog lights are mounted low on vehicles and it is easier to drive with the low beams in bad weather than your brights).

Most LED's are a fairly wide beam pattern so in general you want them mounted low. I will admit that a roof mounted LED bar looks awesome but that roof is a better location for narrow beam pattern HID projectors.
 
C

Carlton

New Member
Aug 25, 2018
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AL
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  1. 700-4
https://hondasxs.com/attachments
I beat the crap out of my bars. I had a 12 inch on the very front of my bumper on my polaris. I literally pushed a viking forward a foot and realised it was my light bar that made the contact.

They lense is made from poly. It's basically indestructible. The brackets are made from very mild steel. What does that mean? Engineered weak spot.

I rolled my Honda. landed on the nose of the bumper and bill of the roof. My bar snapped off because 1700+ lbs.

Bar still works great. Brackets were a couple bucks on Amazon.

Anyways, long story short, I've had many bars and I can tell you worrying about them breaking should be the last thing on your mind. You WILL break an axle before you break your bar. I've beat the snot out of mine. I've crossed rivers deeper than the steering wheel with the bar a foot under. Had my rig parked outside in -20 f. Mounting location makes no difference to structural longevity. The LEDs will burn out before you break these bars. I promise.

Here's what I've noticed. We have about 5 sxs between my group. Steel roofs are awesome for light bars. The Honda plastic roof is amazing for what it is, but rigid it isn't and the wiggle sucks. It's so annoying I don't even use the light. I'm gonna take it off.

I've tried it all, get a 52 inch straight bar 300 watts with cree or Philips LEDs. and 2 1.75 inch roll cage clamps for about 20 dollars. 0 wiggle, very cheap, no holes in plastic, and you can get your hood off without removing the bar.

Just my opinions, but I have done it all. Alaska is dark 80% of the day in winter. I have light out to about 300 yards right now. You could shoot paper at 300 yards. We literally went skeet shooting using only my lightbar during December at 7pm.

If you have a plastic roof I would mount low on the rops with clamps. And anything less than 52 inch is a waste of time and space until you get into top dollar bars. A 300 watt bar only measures 160-200 ish watts. My friend is a rigid distributer. We have played with more light bars than most people could afford in their whole lifetime.

Anyways, sorry if this comes off as a rant or whatever. Just sucks seeing people spend the same amount of money and getting inferior product compared to what they could have got if they had gone through and wasted all the money I have.

And stay away from epistar LEDs. So disappointed. Yellowish color and very short range. Burned out fast. Auxbeam takes the cake for anything in the 100 ish range. Nobody else comes close. We tried nilight, bear claw, eyourlife, auxbeam, mictuning and a few off brand led pods.

Again, I've pretty much tried it all. We have a viking with a 52 on roof, my Polaris had it mounted to the hood. 52 inch on the roof of 2 Polaris 6x6s. My buddy has a 20 inch auxbeam x series on his grizzly. I have 2 52 inch on my Honda.

My opinion, low is best, 52 is best, quick disconnect wiring is best, and most importantly of all Locktite your bolts that mount your bar to your mount......... Yes It's happened. No I wasn't happy.

Anyways, good luck with your journey. If you are anything like us, it will never end until you can get a tan at midnight..... It never ends.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
View attachment 47578View attachment 47579

And a few pics of my old setups that I tried outView attachment 47580
View attachment 47581
what bracket did you use in the photo that you are holding the light bar??
 
H

HotRod5309

New Member
Aug 12, 2019
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0
1
Iowa
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  1. 700-4
Sounds like you already have it figured out where you want it. I have mine on the bumper but sitting back a few inches to protect it. So far I have not damaged and I am by no means easy on it.

E8d1e0dcfb349e5ee0341f3d3cf1918c


" jak9922" lmfao grilling hotdogs on a stick over an open popo hahahahaha
Where did you get the bar mounts?
 
joeymt33

joeymt33

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Where did you get the bar mounts?

Amazon. At one time I had purchased several different pairs of mounts to try and this is what I had come up with.
 
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Kevdp4

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Roof?
Hood
Bumper?

I am kinda thinking to stay away from roof because I'm worried about it getting beat up by overhead obstructions.

I'm hesitating a hood mount, because I'm concerned about glare coming off the hood and distracting from overall light throw.

The bumper seems like the smartest decision. It'll be low so it won't give much of a halo affect when any dust is kicked up. There'll be no glare off the hood. Zero field of view obstruction for small passengers.

Any advice/input on any of this?

Mines right above the hood at bottom of the windshield, the lightbar itself blocks the glare.
 
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