My Warn mount uses the 2 lower bumper bolts and the front 2 threaded holes under the front diff. 4 bolts total.
J
You must of done yours like i did mine four on the bottom and the two bumper bolts so far so good 12" today
Yeah I have the 4 bottom bolts and the two winch mount bolts. Hopefully that will offset the larger plow I am making for it 🤞🏼
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toddvdh
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Lifetime Member
I think that will be fine bolted to the frame with 4 bolts that are 3/8 ish.
I have 8 bolts that are 1/2” holding the bracket on my f250. I’ve bent my frame when I hit someone who ran a red light. After replacing the front 1/3 of my frame we reused the plow mount because it didn’t bend.
I have friends with the same setup that have bent frames while plowing aggressively.
just something to think about. I’d rather shear 4 bolts then bend a frame……
I have 8 bolts that are 1/2” holding the bracket on my f250. I’ve bent my frame when I hit someone who ran a red light. After replacing the front 1/3 of my frame we reused the plow mount because it didn’t bend.
I have friends with the same setup that have bent frames while plowing aggressively.
just something to think about. I’d rather shear 4 bolts then bend a frame……
J
I know from being around alot of plows in the past SPEED KILLS
Agreed! And definitely not what I will be doing as I don’t have enough room anywhere to build up speed Even if I wanted to 👍🏻
I didn't think my speed was too fast several times when I went into the seatbelt full stop.
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The springs finally arrived! Now time to make my tension adjustment mount 🛠
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Buggyman
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Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
looking good. always fun and satisfying to see the progress as you build something yourself.
A few more progress pictures, may still need to make a few little changes but it’s coming along 👍🏻
I had a chance to plow with mine again today, I don't miss the winch cable set up at all. You should really consider a 12v linear actuator. I'm curious what you will think about the long plow mount once you start plowing, in tight spots I've found Im glad to be so short overall length wise.
The actuator would be a sweet addition. So far I’m trying to keep it on the cheap but in the future if we ever get any snow and I can justify the expense that would be a sweet addition. From the cutting edge of the plow to where it pins into my mount on the machine is roughly 3’ 4”s as I don’t have access to a pioneer with a plow set up I’m curious as to how much further this really sticks out 🤷🏻♂️
***after posting this I looked at prices of actuators and they aren’t nearly as expensive as I figured they would be 👍🏻***
Going to spend some beer time pondering a linear actuator (which I googled to become an expert). I'd appreciate hearing from SXS owners with experience. Some of the actuators have plenty of power, but some are slow on the in and out.
One of the things I like with my winch mount is that the blade can float up the high snowbanks that build up around my drive. It really helps to have a bit of momentum and let the snow and blade float up over the top of the snowbank - stacks on top and not against the front of the bank. Has anyone used a system where the actuator lifts but the blade can free-float up?
Going to the fridge . . .
One of the things I like with my winch mount is that the blade can float up the high snowbanks that build up around my drive. It really helps to have a bit of momentum and let the snow and blade float up over the top of the snowbank - stacks on top and not against the front of the bank. Has anyone used a system where the actuator lifts but the blade can free-float up?
Going to the fridge . . .
My actuator is a 4" stroke 275lbs rating. I really like the preload on the blade, set the blade on the ground and the. Unload the front suspension. I also plow flat concrete. For banks, I have a 5ft ditch of the end of my driveway so I don't have a need to plow up banks. For speed it's a lot faster up and down than the winch cable and a lot less current draw than the winch. My actuator is clutched up and down so if it's at full travel or over loaded it will click and stop moving.
I don't have a measurement on the plow blade to tire but I'd guess it's less than 24"
Thank you, ToddACimer - this is very helpful and brought up another issue.
If I had smooth, flat pavement or cement that pushes off into a ditch, this would be a great set up. And it would really address the underlying problem of the repeated, short lifts that wear and fray the winch cable over time.
I paid several thousand to roll road base on my drive, which has ups and downs, and I rely on the blade pucks and free float to keep from pushing $100 worth of road base over the edge every time I plow. After a bad experience, I use the snowbanks as guides to keep vehicles on the drive so they don't slide into false shoulders. Like I did.
This photo's from a prior post where I nearly rolled on a false shoulder I made for myself. Yes, ended in tow truck shame.
If you were planning to leave a base of know, I think you could set the plow shoes on the ground and maintain a consistent height, alternatively a secondary pivot could be put on the top side to allow 1" or so of float in the cylinder or 1-3" on the plow.
I was not thinking of the actuator for the up and down but rather the angling from side to side… now I have all kinds of ideas running through my head
I'm tempted on side to side but I'm running out of under hood electrical room. I have to hide 3 winch solenoids already, front winch, rear winch and plow lift actuator. Side to side would be a hole extra setup
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